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08-03-2018, 12:56 PM
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#201
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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What's the fridge test point look like?
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Happy Motoring
Bob
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08-03-2018, 02:01 PM
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#202
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin
What's the fridge test point look like?
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The test port should be an obvious plugged port just upstream from the burner. The picture is what it looks like on the older RM2510, but I think you have an RMD8555. Internet literature for this model didn't make it clear where it might be. Take a picture of the back area of your fridge and maybe we can identify where it is.
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08-03-2018, 06:39 PM
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#203
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Naples, Florida
Trailer: New 21 Escape (not classic)10/16 Sold Lil Snoozy 7/16
Posts: 484
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Fridge
Well we let the fridge run on propane for our 300 mile run and then plugged into 110ac and it’s running good ?? Maybe it was backing up hill and it took a few times to get it in I really am perplexed I will look at pressure and maybe readjust so fridge works better blue flame vs more yellow
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08-03-2018, 06:52 PM
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#204
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jennykatz
I will look at pressure and maybe readjust so fridge works better blue flame vs more yellow
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Yes, definitely clean the burner and jet and check the propane pressure. You should have a nice healthy, hot blue flame. No yellow.
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08-04-2018, 02:38 PM
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#205
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
The test port should be an obvious plugged port just upstream from the burner. The picture is what it looks like on the older RM2510, but I think you have an RMD8555. Internet literature for this model didn't make it clear where it might be. Take a picture of the back area of your fridge and maybe we can identify where it is.
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Nothing I can see, will need to remove a few parts to get to the burner cover screw although i don't think it's in there.The output of the valve goes right into the burner cover. It's due for a cleaning anyway.
May have to use the stove for testing.
Has anyone used the optional gas quick connect? I'm thinking the valve and connection may effect the pressure output at that point.
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Happy Motoring
Bob
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08-04-2018, 03:36 PM
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#206
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,813
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Couldn't you use the brass hex plug, with red on it, in the top photo?
Ron
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08-04-2018, 05:44 PM
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#207
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern Alberta, Alberta
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Posts: 1,734
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__________________
Cheers
Doug
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08-04-2018, 06:14 PM
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#208
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Janesville, WI, Wisconsin
Trailer: Escape 19 (sold) Escape 21 2014
Posts: 1,884
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Thank you for that photo of the test port. Like Bob, I was uncertain of its location. I get to use my manometer again.
It sounds like one should have at least one burner of the stove turned on when making the test.
I think the cleaning process is very important, especially on the 8555. Many of those are now 2-3 years old. Certainly every model could benefit from cleaning.
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08-04-2018, 06:34 PM
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#209
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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Great, thanks.
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Happy Motoring
Bob
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08-04-2018, 07:29 PM
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#210
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Naples, Florida
Trailer: New 21 Escape (not classic)10/16 Sold Lil Snoozy 7/16
Posts: 484
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Fridge
So increase the pressure unscrew the black top and turn screw clockwise?
I have another question to clean the orifice how ? Thanks
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08-04-2018, 08:28 PM
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#211
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern Alberta, Alberta
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Posts: 1,734
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Fridge stopped working.. Any Thoughts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jennykatz
So increase the pressure unscrew the black top and turn screw clockwise?
I have another question to clean the orifice how ? Thanks
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Yes that is the procedure to increase the propane pressure.
No need to clean the orifice if the flame is good, if the flame is low or nonexistent then remove the propane supply line then the orifice assembly (pic below)and clean the orifice, I use acetone.
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Cheers
Doug
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08-26-2018, 07:52 AM
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#212
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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Do I need to seal the test port with something other then torque when replacing the bolt, like PTFE tape?
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Happy Motoring
Bob
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08-26-2018, 08:25 AM
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#213
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fudge_brownie
It sounds like one should have at least one burner of the stove turned on when making the test.
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Would this not have the potential to reduce the pressure a wee bit? I had not heard this, and have not done it, before.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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08-26-2018, 08:42 AM
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#214
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Port Townsend, Washington
Trailer: 2010 17B “MATT”, then 2017 19 “Lilly”
Posts: 1,584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett
Would this not have the potential to reduce the pressure a wee bit? I had not heard this, and have not done it, before.
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I think that’s the point - to test the system pressure while under load to ensure that pressure is still adequate while other things are operating.
Just ordered a manometer to do this myself. Am also interested in whether to use Teflon tape to reseal the test Port. The yellow, natural gas stuff, perhaps? Or would that be too thick?
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💩-p+☕️+n
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08-26-2018, 08:47 AM
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#215
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sclifrickson
I think that’s the point - to test the system pressure while under load to ensure that pressure is still adequate while other things are operating.
Just ordered a manometer to do this myself. Am also interested in whether to use Teflon tape to reseal the test Port. The yellow, natural gas stuff, perhaps? Or would that be too thick?
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That kinda makes sense, I will try it both ways to see what variations I get in pressure.
I too have a manometer I just ordered, but have yet to try it out.
The plug in Doug's photo appears to have pipe threads on it. If that is the case, either yellow Teflon tape, or pipe dope will work.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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08-26-2018, 08:49 AM
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#216
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Trailer: 2012 Escape-19
Posts: 383
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With all your LP appliances in operation I can loose about 1.5" of WC. I spoke with an engineer from the regulator mfg. He said to adjust your regulator you should have about 50% of your BTU load in operation when making your adjustment. Bottom line if you adjust to 11" of WC under no load when each appliance is turned on your pressure will decrease in proportion to the total BTU load. ( I take no responsibility for the procedure, just passing on information.)
Eddie
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08-26-2018, 08:50 AM
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#217
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Janesville, WI, Wisconsin
Trailer: Escape 19 (sold) Escape 21 2014
Posts: 1,884
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For sealing the port after running the manometer test I used the yellow Teflon tape, made for gas lines. My logic was that I broke the existing seal that was some sort of putty.
__________________
Paul and Janet Braun
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 now 2012 Toyota Sequoia V8
Escape 19' 2010 now 2014 Escape 21'
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08-26-2018, 09:01 AM
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#218
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fudge_brownie
For sealing the port after running the manometer test I used the yellow Teflon tape, made for gas lines. My logic was that I broke the existing seal that was some sort of putty.
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That would be pipe dope and not putty. All the pipefitters that do gas work in the homes I have built or renovated all use pipe dope, and never Teflon tape.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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08-26-2018, 09:07 AM
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#219
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
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Rectorseal #5 is for water ,natural gas and propane
It is the industry standard for pipe dope and readily available
In my 40 years in the building trades I never saw Teflon tape used on gas piping
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08-26-2018, 09:17 AM
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#220
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham
In my 40 years in the building trades I never saw Teflon tape used on gas piping
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Must be regional then, as the yellow PTFE tape is used a fair bit around here, especially by the DIY crowd. There are brands other than Teflon too, but it seems to be the most common. Probably due to it's popular brand name.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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