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Old 09-21-2015, 03:40 PM   #21
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I would try disconnecting the 12 VDC feed /power to the inverters ,leave the power disconnected for 10 minutes ,reapply power and reset the inverter. I used to work on industrial electronics and many times the only way to reset a piece of equipment was to power down and allow the internal controls to reset to the default position.
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:04 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkB View Post
If you have a remote panel for the inverter, remove the network cable for the remote from the inverter and try it using the on/off switch on the inverter.

The on/off switch on the inverter should be in the OFF position for the remote to control the inverter.

When my inverter was new, it would not start for me once. After unplugging output and remote, and toggling the on/off switch, it started ok, and has worked fine ever since. Hope that is all it takes for yours.
Called Reace today and the problem was nothing more than not pushing the reset button right. We had the same trouble with the 19'. We knew it had to really be pushed in and we thought we had done that again and again but today when talking to Reace --- of course --- I pushed it and could immediately tell that it worked differently from all of the other tries. That simple.

Reace also said that there is a little green button that will light up in the middle of the outlet on the Samlex inverter. Well, just about impossible to see. Or impossible! Don't know if I saw it or not but the reset button was then "in" this time instead of sticking out, and that's all we needed, that and pushing it in with the inverter turned on, for anyone else who needs to do this. That is after pulling out the GFCI plug on the inverter. This was done with the idea that we had tripped the inverter's GFCI when using it. Don't know how we did that though so will have to pay attention the next times.

I happened to ask what you brought up --- why is the rocker switch on the inverter supposed to be off. And he said it is to use the remote display instead.

Anyway, as far as we see now, it is working and we will try using it again in the next couple of days. Thanks for the info, Kirk and all.

By the way, I asked him why the solar monitor has been moved to above the refrigerator. He did not give a reason. Just moved it.
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:10 AM   #23
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inverters

We have the 21 escape we are thinking of adding a 1500-2000 watt inverter .I looked at the twin battery set up looks pretty straightforward . I have some number 6 wire 2 questions will I need a fuse (probably yes) what size 30-40 amp?and is number 6 wire enough ?
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Old 12-21-2016, 10:49 AM   #24
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If you were to run a 1500 hair drier off the inverter, it'd pull 125A from the batteries. 125A moving less then 10' would require 1awg cable, meaning the inverter should be within 5' of the batteries, cable length wise.

I'd use a 150A fuse.

At least that's what I come up with using this https://www.bluesea.com/products/200...election_Chart , see what others say.
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Old 12-21-2016, 10:50 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
We have the 21 escape we are thinking of adding a 1500-2000 watt inverter .I looked at the twin battery set up looks pretty straightforward . I have some number 6 wire 2 questions will I need a fuse (probably yes) what size 30-40 amp?and is number 6 wire enough ?
A 2000 watt inverter will draw 166 amps at 12 VDC when operating at 100% of its' rating . Conductors are normally sized at 125% of the equipments FLA . In this case 166 amps x 1.25 = 207 amps.
You will need a conductor / wire that has a minimum ampacity of 207 amps. #6 wire copper wire has an ampacity of approximately 60 amps depending on the type of insulation , ambient temperature and the length of the run ,so it is not suitable for a 2000 watt inverter. You will need a 3/0 or 4/0 copper conductor for a 2000 watt inverter. If you wish to use #6 then buy a smaller inverter , where #6 can handle the load safely ( 500 to 700 watts).
Be aware that 3/0 & 4/0 copper wire is expensive but it's still cheaper than a fire .
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Old 12-21-2016, 10:53 AM   #26
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No to mention very hard to work with.
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:10 AM   #27
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Check out donrowe.com- they will make your cables with connectors at a reasonable price. Thought I needed a 3000 watt inverter for our vitamix and ordered everything from them. They took it all back with custom made cables for a nominal re-stock fee after Escape had installed a 1500 watt by mistake and it ran the Vitamix.
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:25 AM   #28
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No to mention very hard to work with.
Another good point . 3/0 & 4/0 standard building wire is hard to bend . We used hydraulic wire benders on large wire because of this fact. Where we required flexibility and it met the code we often used fine strand welding cable but the welding cable is more expensive than standard building wire . In our case we had to factor in labor & material costs but labor is not an issue in this case.
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Old 12-21-2016, 03:36 PM   #29
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inverter

I might have to rethink this inverter deal maybe a 1000 watt will do the trick its for a 700 watt microwave and a small hairdryer less then 1000 watts. My run would be less then 2 ft .It would be right next to the battery box .I think the number 6 wires came with the 1000 watt inverter i put into our boat .Maybe bring my microwave down to the boat see if the 1000 watt will run it and my wife's hairdryer ? On my boat i had a about a 20ft. run from battery to inverter then back to batteries . I think I used a 75 amp circuit breaker and a number 02 or 04 awg ? I think I'll go down to the Boat
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:30 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
I might have to rethink this inverter deal maybe a 1000 watt will do the trick its for a 700 watt microwave and a small hairdryer less then 1000 watts.
...
Maybe bring my microwave down to the boat see if the 1000 watt will run it and my wife's hairdryer ?
A "700 watt" microwave oven should have 700 watts of output (microwave) power, so it will likely use around 1000 watts of input (120 V AC) power.
Very few hair dryers are less than 14000 watts on the high-heat setting, but at least one low-heat setting is likely under 700 watts... or you might find a small one with a high-heat setting of less than 1000 watts.

The "1000 watt" inverter can probably run higher than 1000 watts for brief periods, but as Steve explained that takes a lot of current - 75 amps wouldn't be quite enough for 1000 watts.
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