Portable solar panel and wire length to trailer

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by rotateclockwise

When joining two feeds (portable and roof mount), is it best to use an MC4 Y connector with a single output to the existing controller or is there an alternative to joining and stepping down the feeds?

You really only need the MC4 connectors for connections that occur in the out of doors. In this environ they are superior as they’re waterproof and durable. It’s what they’re made for. For indoor connections they’re unnecessary. Generally, portable feed meets roof feed inside, next to the solar controller, possibly both feeds wired directly to the solar controller. But a wide array of configurations are possible, so MC4 might make sense in some of these. They are a PITA to take apart though, so I would seek a different solution if for a temporary connection that would be emplaced then removed regularly.

[steve dunham]

We have a 100 watt portable solar panel and a 50 ft extension cable. The extension cable consists of 2- #6 THWN copper conductors terminated with Anderson Power Pole connectors.

[rotateclockwise]

Great information! Thank you.

I don't want to have to connect to the inside every time, so I am considering going with an Anderson Powerpole which will live somewhere outside at the front of the trailer (site driveway generally has the most open air space). The connection could enter through the bottom of the trailer near the batteries and controller. This would mean only a small hole is needed (wire diameter) and can be caulked to prevent water intrusion. My confusion has been around how to connect to the existing feed and controller. I don't believe the controller will accept two 10 gauge wires.

This should make it easier to connect and disconnect a portable. Though, the hard part is on the install.

[rotateclockwise]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

We have a 100 watt portable solar panel and a 50 ft extension cable. The extension cable consists of 2- #6 THWN copper conductors terminated with Anderson Power Pole connectors.

Steve, how did you get your wire through the fiberglass shell? Did you use a connector like a Zamp or drill and feed the line straight through?

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by AKCamper

Has anybody read the blog “The RV Battery Charging Puzzle” Bob states it a little more emphatically than Alan. As close as possible with the largest wire possible. I kind of aim for perfection, although I rarely hit it.

The reason I ask is we have the solar pre-solar install from Escape . Being a 19 the batteries are in front box . They have wire inside the passenger front dinette . Then wire inside the sink upper cabinet . Escape use to run solar controller in upper kitchen cabinet . I put our Victron in that space and left space and would want controller up there too. I really don't want controller down near the floor . So is there a max length to go by in wiring to batteries . Or install a remote in kitchen cabinet and the controller needs to be at th batteries . I am just trying to learn .what are the set rules even though each installation is a little different . Pat

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by rotateclockwise

Steve, how did you get your wire through the fiberglass shell? Did you use a connector like a Zamp or drill and feed the line straight through?

I ran a pair of #6 wires ( Fused ) from the battery to the power cord compartment. Installed an Anderson Power Pole connectors on the #6 wires . When we camp without hookups , I open the cord door , pull out the Anderson connector and plug in the solar panel
No holes were drilled

[rotateclockwise]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

I ran a pair of #6 wires ( Fused ) from the battery to the power cord compartment. Installed an Anderson Power Pole connectors on the #6 wires . When we camp without hookups , I open the cord door , pull out the Anderson connector and plug in the solar panel
No holes were drilled

Good deal. That's a great idea. I like that your approach keeps the cords on the drivers side away from general foot traffic. Thanks!

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

I ran a pair of #6 wires ( Fused ) from the battery to the power cord compartment. Installed an Anderson Power Pole connectors on the #6 wires . When we camp without hookups , I open the cord door , pull out the Anderson connector and plug in the solar panel
No holes were drilled

For those that want a surface mount Anderson connector (and are willing to drill a "big" hole in your Escape (it only hurts the first time!) here is a solution: Powerwerx. Amazon also sells them, but they are currently out of stock...

[padlin]

Originally Posted by rotateclockwise

Great information! Thank you.

I don't want to have to connect to the inside every time, so I am considering going with an Anderson Powerpole which will live somewhere outside at the front of the trailer (site driveway generally has the most open air space). The connection could enter through the bottom of the trailer near the batteries and controller. This would mean only a small hole is needed (wire diameter) and can be caulked to prevent water intrusion..

These are an alternative to just drilling a hole and caulking.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

The reason I ask is we have the solar pre-solar install from Escape . Being a 19 the batteries are in front box . They have wire inside the passenger front dinette . Then wire inside the sink upper cabinet . Escape use to run solar controller in upper kitchen cabinet . I put our Victron in that space and left space and would want controller up there too. I really don't want controller down near the floor . So is there a max length to go by in wiring to batteries . Or install a remote in kitchen cabinet and the controller needs to be at th batteries . I am just trying to learn .what are the set rules even though each installation is a little different . Pat

Pat, you’re asking all the right (and usual) questions. The best all around guide that I know of, as Eric suggested, is The Battery Charging Puzzle, by Handy Bob. It’s a long read but valuable, and should answer the vast majority of your questions.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Pat, you’re asking all the right (and usual) questions. The best all around guide that I know of, as Eric suggested, is The Battery Charging Puzzle, by Handy Bob. It’s a long read but valuable, and should answer the vast majority of your questions.

Thankyou, is that online or a book ? Pat

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Thankyou, is that online or a book ? Pat

I think this is it

https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/...ging-puzzle-2/

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY

I think this is it

https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/...ging-puzzle-2/

Thankyou ! Thankyou ! Pat

[fudge_brownie]

Here is another option for connecting wires of different gauge on the interior of the trailer. They are from Eaton and model KT 3. They will work with 8 to 22 AWG wire. Many of these products are designed to fit on a rail, this particular product has its own mounting holes.

Called a terminal block, they come in a large variety of designs. You may find a similar design to your liking.

[rotateclockwise]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

Here is another option for connecting wires of different gauge on the interior of the trailer. They are from Eaton and model KT 3. They will work with 8 to 22 AWG wire. Many of these products are designed to fit on a rail, this particular product has its own mounting holes.

Called a terminal block, they come in a large variety of designs. You may find a similar design to your liking.

Very neat! Thank you for sharing. A few questions.

In looking at the KT3, it notes 3 circuits with 6 wire entries. Would you put the two incoming feed wires in one entry and then add the single wire going to the controller on the other side of the circuit?

Is back-feeding a problem?

[ThomasG]

Originally Posted by rotateclockwise

Steve, how did you get your wire through the fiberglass shell? Did you use a connector like a Zamp or drill and feed the line straight through?

I had ETI install an empty electrical hatch (similar to: http://a.co/2HnGVVz) at the driver's side rear, under the dinette bench, on my 5.0 TA. I can use this hatch to bring in/out any sort of wire (cable TV, ethernet, solar, etc.). I have the removable power cord option so I couldn't dual use the hatch for the non-removable power cord. This isn't as convenient as having a solar connector permanently mounted outside the trailer, but it is more flexible.

By the way, it is nice to see other people are using the Andersen Powerpole connectors. I use them for all my 12v work when possible.

[rotateclockwise]

Originally Posted by ThomasG

By the way, it is nice to see other people are using the Andersen Powerpole connectors. I use them for all my 12v work when possible.

I didn't know anything about the Anderson Powerpoles until you, Jon V., and a few others mentioned them in different threads on the forum. I haven't used them before, but after researching them, everyone is generally very pleased with their results. I look forward to giving them a try. Powerwerx has a lot of options.

[sclifrickson]

I thought I had read that the Anderson connectors aren’t waterproof, no?

[ThomasG]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

I thought I had read that the Anderson connectors aren’t waterproof, no?

You are correct, they are not waterproof.

[citabria90]

Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY

I think this is it

https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/...ging-puzzle-2/

This article is indeed long, highly opinionated, full of inaccuracies and flat-out wrong statements. Read with a grain of salt, and verify the author's statements.