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11-03-2017, 08:16 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19'
Posts: 101
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Propane tank tray mounting help
I was getting ready to place our newly filled propane tanks back on the tray and noticed that the tray was loose. Three of the sheet metal screws were loose and I snapped the fourth one off trying to tighten. Upon further investigation the screw holes in the frame were rusted out and stripped - possibly one screw and a wiring zip tie was holding everything on.
I don't work on steel much so this is new to me - thoughts on the following repair options or others would be appreciated:
1. Re-drill and tap the existing holes for slightly larger diameter sheet metal screws/lag bolts. I've never done this. And things might still rust out.
2. Drill all the way through the frame and bolt through using stainless nuts/bolts. I think this might be the easiest, longest lasting, and most secure option. But I'm not sure if this will weaken the 3" frame?
Thanks!
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11-03-2017, 08:22 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMPortland
I was getting ready to place our newly filled propane tanks back on the tray and noticed that the tray was loose. Three of the sheet metal screws were loose and I snapped the fourth one off trying to tighten. Upon further investigation the screw holes in the frame were rusted out and stripped - possibly one screw and a wiring zip tie was holding everything on.
I don't work on steel much so this is new to me - thoughts on the following repair options or others would be appreciated:
1. Re-drill and tap the existing holes for slightly larger diameter sheet metal screws/lag bolts. I've never done this. And things might still rust out.
2. Drill all the way through the frame and bolt through using stainless nuts/bolts. I think this might be the easiest, longest lasting, and most secure option. But I'm not sure if this will weaken the 3" frame?
Thanks!
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I would probably not drill another hole in the bottom of the frame unless absolutely necessary. Perhaps you can wire brush off all the rust, spot weld over the existing mounting holes, paint over with black rust inhibitor, then use some galvanized or stainless U-bolts to attach the tank tray to the frame? And, the tank tray already has slots you could use for this purpose. That way, there are no holes to corrode.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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11-04-2017, 03:38 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Install some plastic automotive door trim around the tank bottom, that may help with the rust rings.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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11-04-2017, 09:26 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4
I would probably not drill another hole in the bottom of the frame unless absolutely necessary. Perhaps you can wire brush off all the rust, spot weld over the existing mounting holes, paint over with black rust inhibitor, then use some galvanized or stainless U-bolts to attach the tank tray to the frame? And the tank tray already has slots you could use for this purpose. That way, there are no holes to corrode.
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I agree with rbryan , drilling a hole through the frame or drilling more holes is probably not the route to take . Clean up the rust , seal the holes and paint . I would weld the propane tank to the frame., it would only take a couple of short beads.
If the original screws stripped out and rusted , bigger screws will just do the same thing down the road.
The other option is to weld a couple of backer plates to the frame so there is enough metal to drill and tap some holes for mounting the propane tray.
Sheet metal screws into thin metal never works well and your problem with the screw heads snapping off is quite common due to the fact that most fasteners are cheap Chinese junk.
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11-04-2017, 11:06 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
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That's true Steve, he could just weld the tray to the frame. But, I like your idea of welding brackets to the frame better. That way, the tray can easily be replaced if needed.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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11-07-2017, 01:52 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Nor, California
Trailer: 2017 Escape
Posts: 234
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I just noticed this on a screw yesterday under a tank. How long is the screw supposed to be?
It almost seems to me like a hole was not drilled into the frame.. as it's all black on the frame.
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11-07-2017, 11:13 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19'
Posts: 101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4
That's true Steve, he could just weld the tray to the frame. But, I like your idea of welding brackets to the frame better. That way, the tray can easily be replaced if needed.
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Thanks for all the good ideas - as soon as I can get my welder son's attention I'll install some angle iron and attach a new tank tray with some stainless steel bolts and nuts.
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11-07-2017, 11:17 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19'
Posts: 101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJY
I just noticed this on a screw yesterday under a tank. How long is the screw supposed to be?
It almost seems to me like a hole was not drilled into the frame.. as it's all black on the frame.
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On our 19 the four sheet metal screws/lag bolts anchoring the propane tray to the trailer frame are about 1-1/2" long. Not quite sure I understand your question though.
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11-08-2017, 12:01 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJY
I just noticed this on a screw yesterday under a tank. How long is the screw supposed to be?
It almost seems to me like a hole was not drilled into the frame.. as it's all black on the frame.
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I'm not sure what you mean, either, but if you're saying that you see the screw head on the tray but not where the screw comes through the frame... that's expected. It appears that there is just one hole for each screw into the top of the frame, and the self-tapping screw grips in that hole like a wood screw.
As long as the screw goes through the thickness of steel of the frame tubing (probably 1/8" to 3/16"), it's long enough. It isn't a more-than-four-inch bolt which goes right through with a nut on the other side.
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11-08-2017, 12:14 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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A couple pictures.
I'd just go with a larger diameter sheet metal screw.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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11-08-2017, 06:57 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Nor, California
Trailer: 2017 Escape
Posts: 234
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sorry for the confusion. I've uploaded the photo.. not sure if this is just a set screw or bolt screw. but the screw and hole both rusted out already on a '17
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11-08-2017, 08:58 AM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
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I still like the idea of either welding brackets for the tray or using U-bolts. Using a bigger screw in the holes won't stop further rusting of the frame. Rust removal, spot weld and paint will.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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11-08-2017, 10:54 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJY
sorry for the confusion. I've uploaded the photo.. not sure if this is just a set screw or bolt screw. but the screw and hole both rusted out already on a '17
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Or maybe they stripped the threads on the first attempt to install the screw, upper hole, and installed the screw in another position.
I've dealt with a lot of types of rust but none so bad that it could rust out an entire screw that quickly.
Ron
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11-08-2017, 04:41 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJY
sorry for the confusion. I've uploaded the photo.. not sure if this is just a set screw or bolt screw. but the screw and hole both rusted out already on a '17
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Not a set screw, just a self-tapping screw (with a hex head so you can use a wrench to drive it in).
The only thing guaranteed about this fastening design is that it will rust. Ron's guess makes sense to me.
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11-08-2017, 05:35 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Nor, California
Trailer: 2017 Escape
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
Or maybe they stripped the threads on the first attempt to install the screw, upper hole, and installed the screw in another position.
I've dealt with a lot of types of rust but none so bad that it could rust out an entire screw that quickly.
Ron
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There should be 2 screws like glen's photo.. then either the screw broke and inside of broken screw is black? or the installer just didn't bother to correct a broken screw
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11-08-2017, 05:36 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Nor, California
Trailer: 2017 Escape
Posts: 234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
Not a set screw, just a self-tapping screw (with a hex head so you can use a wrench to drive it in).
The only thing guaranteed about this fastening design is that it will rust. Ron's guess makes sense to me.
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thanks, Brian. I just thought it could be a set screw due to how short it was like 1/8 of an inch
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11-08-2017, 09:24 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJY
I just thought it could be a set screw due to how short it was like 1/8 of an inch
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They can be very short, since they only need to go through the propane tray and the wall of the frame (although even that is more than 1/8"). A set screw wouldn't have the head needed to clamp down the tray.
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11-17-2017, 02:15 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Nor, California
Trailer: 2017 Escape
Posts: 234
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can someone with a '17 tell me if they have 1 or 2 bolts on the tray on each side? I took off the other tank and only saw 1 bolt installed... the other side had 1 installed and 1 not installed into the frame correctly.
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11-17-2017, 02:36 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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See photo
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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11-17-2017, 04:18 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Nor, California
Trailer: 2017 Escape
Posts: 234
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Thanks Glen.
what should I use to prevent rust before installing a new bolt/screw?
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