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Old 09-07-2014, 08:00 AM   #11
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Thanks all, let me try to answer some of the questions:

Yes, tricking to conserve water

When it quit the red pump light was on, faucet on but no water and no pump sound

While trickling the pump surges with the water flow, when faucet opened fully pump runs (somewhat smoothly)

Also lights flicker when pump is running-this may be battery issues I think I am beginning to see (related?)

Steve
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Old 09-07-2014, 10:36 AM   #12
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Steve,
When we started dry camping with our new 21 we found that we had a problem with our water pump. Running the water full on, the pump ran nice and steady with plenty of flow and pressure. Flushing the toilet, taking a shower, filling the sink for dishes, and everything was fine. Washing hands, brushing teeth, rinsing off dishes, etc. while using restricted flow and the pump would pulse quickly and the lights would flash. This pulsing, full on - full off - full on, created pressure surges in the plumbing lines that caused a good amount of banging noise.

Reace suggested that we may have air in our lines so we followed his instructions on how to clear the air, but that didn’t help.

I asked Reace if there was an adjustment I could try (I didn’t get any paperwork on the pump at delivery) because the pump was fully capable of providing all the pressure and flow needed. I thought there were thresholds that could be adjusted wrong from the factory. He said yes. He gave me some instructions, and sent me the missing paperwork. After making the adjustment there’s no more surging, no more noisy plumbing, and no more lights flashing, even while trickling.

Our new pump has two adjustments, one for pressure shut off, and one for bypass. Reace suggested I adjust the pressure shut off and leave the bypass alone. I followed his instructions and the pump now runs steady when the water is on, no matter how much is coming out of the tap. It’s easy to tell if the adjustment you make is incorrect. If it’s adjusted too far in one direction, the surging continues while trickling. If it’s too far in the other direction, the pump continues to run after you turn off the water.

Reace has a great deal of knowledge, and he's more then willing to share. Can't get a better source then that.

Hope this is relevant, and helpful
Tom
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Old 09-07-2014, 05:43 PM   #13
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Thanks Tom, will keep this in mind. I am going to try and nurse this for the next 3 or so weeks until we get home. Hopefully we can make this last. Access in my trailer is limited as I have the fresh water tank under the bed and I really don't want to have to take everything apart while on the road. Will post after I figure out the issue but it may be a while.

Steve
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Old 09-07-2014, 05:58 PM   #14
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I'd suggest having a back-up plan ready to go. A lot of time the heat is a byproduct of bushings/bearings beginning to seize up. The fuse should pop if it seizes up but things, including the wiring can get hot.

A pump, or any device in the process of seizing up or with extra friction can draw more current. This situation can cause flickering lights etc.

I'd check your battery voltage and do other basic checks such as the integrity of connections etc. just as a precaution but it does sound like a failing pump.

I hope you can get home without having to deal with it on the road but it could fail completely unless the problem is external to the pump itself.

Good luck

Ron
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Old 09-07-2014, 06:09 PM   #15
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Tom,
Thanks for sharing your experience of water pump. Where is the Shurflo pressure adjust valve located? I can identify the two bypass switches.

Tonny LR
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Old 09-07-2014, 08:37 PM   #16
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There are two adjustments on mine. There's one (bypass adjustment) located on the body of the pump, close to the strainer, above or below, depending on your mount, of the water inlet and outlet.
The other adjustment is located in what appears to be more in-line with the inlet and outlet, centered up on the body and farthest away from the electric motor. This one is the pressure shut off. The enclosure of the pressure shut off is more square while the bypass enclosure is more round. At least this is how my pump is configured. It would be nice if the manufacturer would indicate which is which. Lucky Reace is here to support us.
Hope this makes sense, and helps out,
Tom
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Old 09-07-2014, 08:59 PM   #17
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I agree with Ron in BC. Have a back up plan. Find out what kind of pump you need and buy it. Wait 'til you get home, and see if you can fix the existing pump. If you can, return the new one. If it quits on you and you're not home, install the new one.
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Old 09-07-2014, 09:06 PM   #18
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Things that get hot and shouldn't give me the willys. When I was a kid, we almost lost our home to a cord on a percolating coffee pot. I'd be disconnecting that sucker immediately. YMMV
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Old 09-07-2014, 10:04 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAfraser View Post
There are two adjustments on mine. There's one (bypass adjustment) located on the body of the pump, close to the strainer, above or below, depending on your mount, of the water inlet and outlet.
The other adjustment is located in what appears to be more in-line with the inlet and outlet, centered up on the body and farthest away from the electric motor. This one is the pressure shut off. The enclosure of the pressure shut off is more square while the bypass enclosure is more round. At least this is how my pump is configured. It would be nice if the manufacturer would indicate which is which. Lucky Reace is here to support us.
Hope this makes sense, and helps out,
Tom
Tom,
Thank you for the info.

Tonny LR
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Old 10-08-2014, 11:12 AM   #20
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Water Pump Update:

I did not have reason to use the WP much the last few weeks of our trip since we mostly had water connections. But when I did use it I monitored it very closely and never had the heat or shut off issue again. Once home I removed the grit screen and it was perfectly clean. So for now if I need to use the WP I will just monitor closely and see what happens. I may just change it out before our next boondocking trip just to be sure.

Thanks for all the information.

Steve
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