Off the Ball - connection issue

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Farther

No disrespect intended but have the off-ball events been the result of equipment failure or operator error?

Our coupler came loose once . We hooked up , both physically and visually checked the coupler , checked it again using the electric Jack and installed our hitch lock
A while later when we stopped at a stop sign I heard a loud metallic clunk
Checked the coupler and the plate that goes around the ball had slid back
Recoupled and t checked everything again and went on our way with no further problems
I had the coupler checked at the local RV shop and they said it was fine .
Being paranoid I don’t have a lot of faith / confidence in our Ram coupler
I still don’t know for sure if this was a mechanical issue or human error
I did install a new latch pin and latch spring , so far so good .

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

Our coupler came loose once . We hooked up , both physically and visually checked the coupler , checked it again using the electric Jack and installed our hitch lock
A while later when we stopped at a stop sign I heard a loud metallic clunk
Checked the coupler and the plate that goes around the ball had slid back
Recoupled and t checked everything again and went on our way with no further problems
I had the coupler checked at the local RV shop and they said it was fine .
Being paranoid I don’t have a lot of faith / confidence in our Ram coupler
I still don’t know for sure if this was a mechanical issue or human error
I did install a new latch pin and latch spring , so far so good .

When you say "plate that goes around the ball"- do you mean the yoke? If so this is the only other instance I've heard happen other than mine which happened about 4-5 times before I replaced the RAM coupler.

Also, what is the "latch spring"?

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Rossue

When you say "plate that goes around the ball"- do you mean the yoke? If so this is the only other instance I've heard happen other than mine which happened about 4-5 times before I replaced the RAM coupler.

Also, what is the "latch spring"?

On the bottom side of the coupler is a plate that moves forward around the bottom side of the ball. The yoke arm visible from the top of the coupler was all the way down
My description may not be clear and for this I apologize
This same issue happened to me once with the same style coupler while at work towing a piece of equipment .
In that instance the coupler jumped off the ball and the trailer ran into the back of my company truck making a large dent in the rear door . Turned out the coupler was damaged / worn out and needed to be replaced .
When this happened with my Escape the coupler did NOT come free from the ball

[Rossue]

Ok I believe what you are describing is the pawl.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Ok I believe what you are describing is the pawl.

Thank you ; Pawl it is .

[Greg A]

After our recent trip throughout SW CO, I'm about done with the coupler provided with the trailer. PITA
I put a Bulldog coupler on my very first Scamp 13 and absolutely loved it, if one can love a coupler. Getting mobile welding service quotes now to come up and change it out in storage. It looks like the coupler itself is running about $68 + whatever the welding comes to.
May be a happier camper soon...

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Greg A

After our recent trip throughout SW CO, I'm about done with the coupler provided with the trailer. PITA
I put a Bulldog coupler on my very first Scamp 13 and absolutely loved it, if one can love a coupler. Getting mobile welding service quotes now to come up and change it out in storage. It looks like the coupler itself is running about $68 + whatever the welding comes to.
May be a happier camper soon...

Who is the supplier and what is the model / SKU #
I think we are going to follow your lead and just replace our coupling
If it came apart once it can do it again
Maybe Escape should offer the Bulldog coupler as an upgrade
/ option .

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

Who is the supplier and what is the model / SKU #
I think we are going to follow your lead and just replace our coupling
If it came apart once it can do it again
Maybe Escape should offer the Bulldog coupler as an upgrade
/ option .

Bulldog 028287 (7000lb) or 028288 (5000lb)
https://www.amazon.com/Coupler-A-Fra.../dp/B000QEU48S

Curt makes one too- CURT 25217 (7000lb)

https://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufact.../dp/B004IY9HVW

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Greg A

After our recent trip throughout SW CO, I'm about done with the coupler provided with the trailer. PITA
I put a Bulldog coupler on my very first Scamp 13 and absolutely loved it, if one can love a coupler. Getting mobile welding service quotes now to come up and change it out in storage. It looks like the coupler itself is running about $68 + whatever the welding comes to.
May be a happier camper soon...

Let us know what the labor quote is. Reace said his shop quoted an hour, yet the lowest quote I got here back in August 2016 was $300. They have to grind off the old one and that takes a fair amount of time.

[Greg A]

I will post up the price when I get the welding quotes.
When I had it done on my 1981 Scamp back in early 2000 it was $125 including the Bulldog and welding. Probably be a bit more now. I will be getting the 7000lb rated a-frame bulldog.
https://www.etrailer.com/A-Frame-Tra.../BD028386.html

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Greg A

I will post up the price when I get the welding quotes.
When I had it done on my 1981 Scamp back in early 2000 it was $125 including the Bulldog and welding. Probably be a bit more now. I will be getting the 7000lb rated a-frame bulldog.
https://www.etrailer.com/A-Frame-Tra.../BD028386.html

Do you prefer the high profile latch over the low profile latch? Is one better than the other? I'm asking because I really don't know and am considering changing my hitch too.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Bulldog 028287 (7000lb) or 028288 (5000lb)
https://www.amazon.com/Coupler-A-Fra.../dp/B000QEU48S

Curt makes one too- CURT 25217 (7000lb)

https://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufact.../dp/B004IY9HVW

Bulldog is a brand name, not a type. The Bulldog name for this style of coupler (they make other styles) is Collar-Lok (describing the collar which slides forward to hold the two sides of the clamshell head together). Their patent has presumably expired, since Curt is making a pretty well straight copy (and calling it Sleeve-Lock); I had not previously heard of the Curt product. The clamshell parts of the Bulldog Collar-Lok are forged, and it is often referred to as just the Bulldog forged coupler; I don't know (and don't see in the Curt listings) how the clamshell parts are made... presumably forged or cast (cast would be cheaper and not as tough for the same thickness).

The latch on any of these is interesting, because it doesn't actually need one at all. They have a round PTO lock pin to prevent the collar from sliding back enough to release, and in at least one mounting style (channel-mount) of both brands there is no room for a lever-type latch and none is used.

[gbaglo]

How has it been determined that this "Bulldog" coupler is superior?

[Rossue]

Wouldn't say superior to a yoke coupler; yin/yang to everything. A couple of reviews from IH8mud.com:

PRO:
One arguement is that you KNOW that the bulldog coupler is on the ball correctly just by looking at it. It won't close on the ball if it isn't on right either. IMHO the bulldog coupler wraps around the ball tighter than the stamped couplers with more surface area in contact. I'd guess this will make the bulldog coupler last longer before it starts to wear "loose". Flip side of this is you can't just replace the wear parts and go some more like the stamped couplers with replaceable locks.

Con:
I put a bulldog coupler on my bumper pull car hauler during rebuild. So far I like it in general. It can be a PITA to hook up if you don't get the truck lined up to the trailer. The stamped couplers will drop on if you get them close and the latch is pretty easy to close after it drops on. With the bulldog coupler it's a little harder to get it closed if the alignment is off. Might be operator inexperience too though as the trailer it's on has only been on the road a couple months and used a couple times.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

How has it been determined that this "Bulldog" coupler is superior?

Some people who use them, like them.... which is about all there is behind most recommendations. But also, this design is substantially constructed, so it appears likely to be durable... but there are many types and brands of similarity substantial cast-body couplers. The moving jaw is one whole side of the head/socket, rather than a small jaw. Like the yoke-type couplers, it is not adjustable so it can't be incorrectly adjusted, and doesn't require adjustment in maintenance.

Searching for information about the similar Curt Sleeve-Lock coupler I ran across another brand which appears identical to the Sleeve-Lock: the Ram cast-head coupler. Yes, that Ram: a brand of Pacific Rim International, LLC, maker of the yoke-type coupler used by Escape.

The Ram catalog:
https://www.carid.com/images/ram-tra...ct-catalog.pdf

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

How has it been determined that this "Bulldog" coupler is superior?

I don't know if it's superior, but it's superior to me, because it makes unhitching FAR easier than the one I had from the factory. Unhitching with the stock coupler was a real pain, and believe me I tried all the forum suggestions to make it easier. Mine isn't a Bulldog brand however, but a Ram Collar-lok from E-Trailer. Unhitching is easy and quick.

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Do you prefer the high profile latch over the low profile latch? Is one better than the other? I'm asking because I really don't know and am considering changing my hitch too.

I put the 5000lb on my 13 Scamp and back then it had the high profile latch, so really all I know. I want the extra margin of the 7000 lb rated when I change it and it has the high profile. As B-P says you really don’t need the latch to operate the coupler, it’s just kinda there as an easier assist.

Robert said it well on how problematic the factory coupler is and the bulldog or similar eliminates the frustrating unhitching issues and gives one a much more secure feeling when hitching the trailer.
I’m carrying my brake tool in my hitch box, not to adjust the brakes, but to get the dang coupler to release when unhitching. For me it’s time to get this resolved.

[gbaglo]

I just don't know how I could have managed for the last eleven years, and the ten years before that ( tent trailer ).

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Greg A

I’m carrying my brake tool in my hitch box, not to adjust the brakes, but to get the dang coupler to release when unhitching. For me it’s time to get this resolved.

Although I dont have anymore "yoke up" during tow with the replacement Atwood coupler I too have to use a long flathead regularly to pry the yoke up to unlatch. It does help to use some silicon spray prior to hitching.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Rossue

It does help to use some silicon spray prior to hitching.

I use a white lithium spray from time to time and sometimes have to jiggle the tow vehicle forward and back. Jumping up and down on the hitch doesn't work, in my experience.