Escape 5.0 Questions

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by MoreQuestionsThanAnswers

I had ruled out the 5.0 before even considering it. Now I can’t get it out of my mind. My tow vehicle is the ‘23 Tundra with a 5.5 truck bed.

Here are todays questions:

1, 5.5 bed issues, any real restrictions on turning radius, interference?

2, recommendations on the right hitch?

3, thoughts on the DC fridge?

4, recommended options? I know this is hard, but curious if there are ones you wish you hadn’t spent the money on, or absolutely think are wonderful.

5, is mileage impact similar to a19 or 21

Thanks

We are proud owners of a 5.0 for almost 1 year now, having upgraded from a 19' Rpod Hood River. We will never ever go back to a single axle nor a bumper pull after having experienced the ease and towability of the 5.0.

1- Can't help, we have a 6.5' bed. The only downside to the 5.5' bed is loss of cargo space.

2 - Have only used the Anderson hitch which is very easy to use, forgiving and quiet.

3 - 3-way fridge all day every day. We boondock 99% time and being able to run on propane is important to us.

4 - Way too many options, but the things we like are: dual solar panels, 4 @ 100ah lithium batteries, no sink in the bathroom, composting toilet.

5 - We tow with an F150 3.5 Ecoboost which returns 10-14mpg in varied conditions and terrain. We towed our Rpod (which was 1000lbs lighter) with a 4.0L Nissan Frontier which pulled in slightly less mpg.

[emers382]

I agree with most of what Chris B. said.

I wish we had a 12 volt drop in the dinette area, we have three at or near the bed including the one by the door, and must use a 10 ft. charge cord from that one to reach the dinette while boon docking. We have no inverter and feel no need for one. We use a 12-24 volt converter for the CPAP and find the 2x6volt flooded batteries cope well at night powering it. Usually battery level (according to GoPower) is no lower than 70%.

I can't speak to the 5.5 ft bed, as we've towed with three F150 supercabs over the years and even with one of those we took out our back window with the trailer when lost control on ice (close to home) on our three day rush back from Georgia at the beginning of Covid.

Like Alf we've always used the same hitch, a B&W Patriot hitch in our case which is definitely heavy and really have to watch loading the trailer so that we don't exceed the truck's payload.

[MoreQuestionsThanAnswers]

Originally Posted by BritCanuck

Sure…got a winch that can go 10ft in the air?….

Also just to add. If you decide on the Anderson hitch there is a company called Trademasters about a 3 min drive from Escape that will supply/install it for you. Many folks will do this the day before trailer pickup.

Shoot, my winch is 8 foot limited, and I don’t believe I’m allowed to import the technology into Canada.

Great information on the local company.

[MoreQuestionsThanAnswers]

Originally Posted by AK snowbiker

We purchased a 2024 Tundra last month. Double cab with the six and half foot bed. Currently the only hitch option for the third generation Tundra’s are the B&W turnover ball with the Andersen Ultimate hitch.

We have a pretty basic SR 5 with a payload of 1620 lbs. I was concerned about the Tundra’s composite bed but was told by Andersen we may have to get the rubber pad that fits under the hitch if we get any twisting.

I am so confused. Looks like the Anderson ultimate uses a two in ball.

1. Is that instead of a king pin?

2. If the Anderson ultimate has a ball why do you need a B&W turnover ball?

3. I’m curious as to what twisting you are referring to, and why a rubber mat would help

[AK snowbiker]

Originally Posted by MoreQuestionsThanAnswers

I am so confused. Looks like the Anderson ultimate uses a two in ball.

1. Is that instead of a king pin?

2. If the Anderson ultimate has a ball why do you need a B&W turnover ball?

3. I’m curious as to what twisting you are referring to, and why a rubber mat would help

The B&W turnover ball is a gooseneck connection that fits underneath the Tundra’s bed. The Andersen hitch will attach to the B&W ball. The 3rd generation Tundra’s have a composite bed that is slick so there is a possibility that the Andersen pyramid might twist, “spin”. The rubber mat or a bed mat will eliminate the twist if it even happens.

This is all uncharted territory for me. I’ve been lurking on the Tundra forum for the last two years and as far as I know the only hitch solution is the B&W turnover ball with either the B&W companion hitch which is heavy and will eat up the Tundra’s payload or the Andersen Ultimate. Trademasters may be able to fabricate a custom rail system if you go another route.

Our previous tow vehicle was a 2003 Dodge 3500 turbo diesel with the B&W patriot hitch which carried a Northern Light truck camper and then our 5.0 TA for 21 years with no issues. Hoping the Tundra treats us the same.

Take a look at the B&W, and Andersen websites and you will get an idea how the system will operate. Still loving our 2014 5.0, no regrets.

[HarleyD]

One of the top 3 reasons we have a 5th wheel is never mentioned when pondering this choice. I think it is a great trailer theft deterrent. Others may disagree and that is their choice. About a year ago I had some time to research my opinion and this is what I found. This is posted on this forum some where.
The other 2 top 3 benefits were much more interior room and maneuver ability due to the shorter over length and the more versatile 5th wheel design.


When I did this research, 28% of all RV's were bumper tow units, 22% were 5th wheels trailers (I was surprised at that number, I expected lower). This was the 2 largest categories.
When I found the percentage of 5th wheel RV's stolen, it was 2.5%, way below the total percent on the road at that time. Most thieves will take the easer and much cheaper choice of a bumper pull trailer. Every pick up has a trailer hitch. It would cost several hundred to a thousand dollars on a hitch to make stealing a 5th wheel a desirable option.

[Centex]

To clarify, the Andersen hitch is available with either of two mounting systems ...

Rail Mount

With this hitch you have '5th wheel hitch rails' (from a 3rd party vendor, there are many) installed in your bed and the Andersen clips to those.

Gooseneck Mount

With this hitch you have a gooseneck ball (again from a 3rd party vendor, there are many, the removable B&W Turnoverball is popular) installed in your bed and the Andersen clamps to that.

In terms of hitching and towing they're identical. Both use the same red 'coupler-block' which is installed on the trailer kingpin and remains in place; both require the use of safety chains in most jurisdictions (true 5th-wheel hitches do not). There's fans of each, of course pros and cons for each:

Rail Mount

• A bit smaller 'base footprint', leaving a bit more space around the hitch base in the truck bed
• The slightly raised mounting rails remain in your bed when the Andersen hitch is removed

Gooseneck Mount

• When used with a removable or 'Turnoverball', there's nothing projecting in the bed when the Andersen hitch is removed
• Slightly larger base footprint and typically slightly higher cost for the total package
• The required gooseneck / Turnoverball assembly is typically a bit heavier than a rails assembly (taking a bit more of your available payload)

Either of the Andersen options is much lower overall weight than most any true 5th-wheel hitch assembly.

Between the two Andersen options, for most folks the choice is a matter of how much value they place on having a 'clear and flat' truck bed when not towing. Many folks don't mind having rails in their bed and like the slightly lower weight / lower cost of that option; some of us place a high priority on a flat bed when not towing so we go the Turnoverball / gooseneck mount route (I happen to be in this camp).

Obviously, there's no right/wrong or better/worse choice, both Andersen options are wonderful hitches IMO, it's strictly a matter of what suits your personal wants and needs (and that may be a true 5th-wheel hitch).

Hope that helps, Have Fun!

[sofmerc]

Originally Posted by Centex

To clarify, the Andersen hitch is available with either of two mounting systems ...

Rail Mount

With this hitch you have '5th wheel hitch rails' (from a 3rd party vendor, there are many) installed in your bed and the Andersen clips to those.

Gooseneck Mount

With this hitch you have a gooseneck ball (again from a 3rd party vendor, there are many, the removable B&W Turnoverball is popular) installed in your bed and the Andersen clamps to that.

In terms of hitching and towing they're identical. Both use the same red 'coupler-block' which is installed on the trailer kingpin and remains in place; both require the use of safety chains in most jurisdictions (true 5th-wheel hitches do not). There's fans of each, of course pros and cons for each:

Rail Mount

• A bit smaller 'base footprint', leaving a bit more space around the hitch base in the truck bed
• The slightly raised mounting rails remain in your bed when the Andersen hitch is removed

Gooseneck Mount

• When used with a removable or 'Turnoverball', there's nothing projecting in the bed when the Andersen hitch is removed
• Slightly larger base footprint and typically slightly higher cost for the total package
• The required gooseneck / Turnoverball assembly is typically a bit heavier than a rails assembly (taking a bit more of your available payload)

Either of the Andersen options is much lower overall weight than most any true 5th-wheel hitch assembly.

Between the two Andersen options, for most folks the choice is a matter of how much value they place on having a 'clear and flat' truck bed when not towing. Many folks don't mind having rails in their bed and like the slightly lower weight / lower cost of that option; some of us place a high priority on a flat bed when not towing so we go the Turnoverball / gooseneck mount route (I happen to be in this camp).

Obviously, there's no right/wrong or better/worse choice, both Andersen options are wonderful hitches IMO, it's strictly a matter of what suits your personal wants and needs (and that may be a true 5th-wheel hitch).

Hope that helps, Have Fun!

My truck (bought used) had rails already installed in the bed...so it was an easy choice for me. depending on the state, you may be required to have safety chains...because your changing from a true 5th wheel connection, to ball and cone connection. I'm in Florida, and it is a requirement. Andersen has the chains for both type of hitches....Lots of people do without the chains...

[MoreQuestionsThanAnswers]

Originally Posted by Centex

To clarify, the Andersen hitch is available with either of two mounting systems ...

Rail Mount

With this hitch you have '5th wheel hitch rails' (from a 3rd party vendor, there are many) installed in your bed and the Andersen clips to those.

Gooseneck Mount

With this hitch you have a gooseneck ball (again from a 3rd party vendor, there are many, the removable B&W Turnoverball is popular) installed in your bed and the Andersen clamps to that.

In terms of hitching and towing they're identical. Both use the same red 'coupler-block' which is installed on the trailer kingpin and remains in place; both require the use of safety chains in most jurisdictions (true 5th-wheel hitches do not). There's fans of each, of course pros and cons for each:

Rail Mount

• A bit smaller 'base footprint', leaving a bit more space around the hitch base in the truck bed
• The slightly raised mounting rails remain in your bed when the Andersen hitch is removed

Gooseneck Mount

• When used with a removable or 'Turnoverball', there's nothing projecting in the bed when the Andersen hitch is removed
• Slightly larger base footprint and typically slightly higher cost for the total package
• The required gooseneck / Turnoverball assembly is typically a bit heavier than a rails assembly (taking a bit more of your available payload)

Either of the Andersen options is much lower overall weight than most any true 5th-wheel hitch assembly.

Between the two Andersen options, for most folks the choice is a matter of how much value they place on having a 'clear and flat' truck bed when not towing. Many folks don't mind having rails in their bed and like the slightly lower weight / lower cost of that option; some of us place a high priority on a flat bed when not towing so we go the Turnoverball / gooseneck mount route (I happen to be in this camp).

Obviously, there's no right/wrong or better/worse choice, both Andersen options are wonderful hitches IMO, it's strictly a matter of what suits your personal wants and needs (and that may be a true 5th-wheel hitch).

Hope that helps, Have Fun!

Wonderful information. Oh boy, I get to learn a lot. This is several days on the hitch alone!

[MoreQuestionsThanAnswers]

Originally Posted by HarleyD

One of the top 3 reasons we have a 5th wheel is never mentioned when pondering this choice. I think it is a great trailer theft deterrent. Others may disagree and that is their choice. About a year ago I had some time to research my opinion and this is what I found. This is posted on this forum some where.
The other 2 top 3 benefits were much more interior room and maneuver ability due to the shorter over length and the more versatile 5th wheel design.


When I did this research, 28% of all RV's were bumper tow units, 22% were 5th wheels trailers (I was surprised at that number, I expected lower). This was the 2 largest categories.
When I found the percentage of 5th wheel RV's stolen, it was 2.5%, way below the total percent on the road at that time. Most thieves will take the easer and much cheaper choice of a bumper pull trailer. Every pick up has a trailer hitch. It would cost several hundred to a thousand dollars on a hitch to make stealing a 5th wheel a desirable option.

Nice. I use the proven industries lock on my teardrop and if I’m still nervous I add the tire lock. No issues so far. Always hope to be more difficult than the guy next to me.

[MoreQuestionsThanAnswers]

Originally Posted by AK snowbiker

The B&W turnover ball is a gooseneck connection that fits underneath the Tundra’s bed. The Andersen hitch will attach to the B&W ball. The 3rd generation Tundra’s have a composite bed that is slick so there is a possibility that the Andersen pyramid might twist, “spin”. The rubber mat or a bed mat will eliminate the twist if it even happens.

This is all uncharted territory for me. I’ve been lurking on the Tundra forum for the last two years and as far as I know the only hitch solution is the B&W turnover ball with either the B&W companion hitch which is heavy and will eat up the Tundra’s payload or the Andersen Ultimate. Trademasters may be able to fabricate a custom rail system if you go another route.

Our previous tow vehicle was a 2003 Dodge 3500 turbo diesel with the B&W patriot hitch which carried a Northern Light truck camper and then our 5.0 TA for 21 years with no issues. Hoping the Tundra treats us the same.

Take a look at the B&W, and Andersen websites and you will get an idea how the system will operate. Still loving our 2014 5.0, no regrets.

Awesome explanation. Everyone on the blog has been so great. Hope to repay the favor.

[Lorraine Pittsburgh]

Originally Posted by MoreQuestionsThanAnswers

Thank you, especially regarding the information on the Anderson hitch.

I’m not sure if you are saying the extra 12v drops were necessary, or unnecessary, in your opinion?

Hello again,

While not necessary, I've found them useful. I now have a WeBoost run on the drop in one cabinet, & a tire pressure monitor system connected to the one in the outside storage box. It's certainly possible to add them later, but those who've done it seem to wish they'd had Escape install them in their original build.

It would be interesting to hear if anyone has used more than 2 drops in their cabinets.

Best of luck as you continue to sort through the many options!

[brroberts]

I’ve wired several things, but did not get any drops. Unless I need something high current, I don’t see the need, but others obviously like them.

[marsman]

We have a 2019 5.0 and overall we love it; Pros, many of which have already been mentioned, include, shorter length behind tow vehicle, no crawling over each other when getting out of bed, two separate living spaces and much taller ceiling height (this last reason was the big one for me - I'm 6'3" tall).

There are also cons and for me the biggest by far is the loss of my truck bed for carrying larger items like a motorbike etc... This one for us is a biggie.

Nevertheless for us the pros outweigh the cons and so we chose the 5.0.

In the end we took a very close look at all of Escape's trailers (we spent part of two days in their showroom and talking to various people before making our decision. We spent years in all sorts of dealerships and company showrooms including Bigfoot and Oliver Trailers who are direct competitors - one thing became blatantly obvious - for the price point, all the trailers Escape offers are impressive high quality products anyone of which would make a great trailer!!!

[MoreQuestionsThanAnswers]

Originally Posted by marsman

We have a 2019 5.0 and overall we love it; Pros, many of which have already been mentioned, include, shorter length behind tow vehicle, no crawling over each other when getting out of bed, two separate living spaces and much taller ceiling height (this last reason was the big one for me - I'm 6'3" tall).

There are also cons and for me the biggest by far is the loss of my truck bed for carrying larger items like a motorbike etc... This one for us is a biggie.

Nevertheless for us the pros outweigh the cons and so we chose the 5.0.

In the end we took a very close look at all of Escape's trailers (we spent part of two days in their showroom and talking to various people before making our decision. We spent years in all sorts of dealerships and company showrooms including Bigfoot and Oliver Trailers who are direct competitors - one thing became blatantly obvious - for the price point, all the trailers Escape offers are impressive high quality products anyone of which would make a great trailer!!!

Thank you marksman. The first thing we did when we bought the Tundra was put a nice shell on it. Works great as our pantry for the teardrop. If we go to the 5.0 that becomes a sunk cost. I just don’t see putting it back on for a few months in winter,,,especially if we decide to drive to the sun.

[Vermilye]

I had drops installed in all overhead cabinets. I added interior strip lights to each cabinet in both my 17B & the 21. Makes it easier to find stuff, particularly at night. I added a micro toggle switch for the lights; some have used magnetic or other switches that turn on the light when ever the door opens. I prefer the toggle switch since I often leave the cabinet doors open to even out the temperature & wouldn't want them glowing overnight.

[iamunique127]

Although my 2013 Tundra is older than yours, we have the same length box. When we purchased our 5.0TA the owners and founders of ETI assured everyone at the time that the 5.0TA could be effectively hauled by a truck with a 5.5' box, and they themselves were doing that very thing. Since ETI has changed owners they seem to be less hands-on users and cover their butts more in the recommendations.

We purchased our Reese 15K (or 16K, I'm not sure) hitch from ETI at the same time as the trailer and had Trademasters in Chilliwack instal it the day we picked up the trailer. I've since traded up to a slightly newer CrewMax Tundra and it was a challenge to get the hitch re-installed. Theoretically, one should use a slider hitch to haul a fifth wheel trailer with a short box truck and my local hitch shops went strictly by what was recommended regardless of the size of my trailer. Apparently there are no mounting instructions available for my rails in the 5.5' box. I even called Trademasters but there were no notes on my account of how they mounted the hitch.

Luckily I had taken the measurements of where the rails were mounted in the original truck and I found a shop willing to do a custom instal to my specifications. So I suggest you ensure you can get whatever hitch you decide upon, installed in your truck. That may be a non-issue these days but my experience is you do not need a slider hitch or any special set-back of the hitch to haul or tow the 5.0TA. We have no problems with maneuverability and can turn as sharply as we ever need to.

We find the Reese hitch perfectly suitable for our trailer. It's the only hitch I've ever used, it's simple and it just works. The head comes off with two pins and the rest of the hitch comes off with 4 pins. I have no trouble taking those parts out of the truck when I need the space for other uses. Then I put a rubber bed mat over the rails but they do impede sliding heavy objects in the box. I can work around that.

I have bought a topper myself and know how handy they are. As described before, I have the ability to remove it for towing season but if that's not feasible for you be aware they are quite desirable on the used market and hold their value well. I do like to have the box covered when not towing. There is a whole range of tonneau covers available at price points for everyone. Mine is an inexpensive roll-up and serves us well.

I hope this helps.

[MoreQuestionsThanAnswers]

Originally Posted by iamunique127

Although my 2013 Tundra is older than yours, we have the same length box. When we purchased our 5.0TA the owners and founders of ETI assured everyone at the time that the 5.0TA could be effectively hauled by a truck with a 5.5' box, and they themselves were doing that very thing. Since ETI has changed owners they seem to be less hands-on users and cover their butts more in the recommendations.

We purchased our Reese 15K (or 16K, I'm not sure) hitch from ETI at the same time as the trailer and had Trademasters in Chilliwack instal it the day we picked up the trailer. I've since traded up to a slightly newer CrewMax Tundra and it was a challenge to get the hitch re-installed. Theoretically, one should use a slider hitch to haul a fifth wheel trailer with a short box truck and my local hitch shops went strictly by what was recommended regardless of the size of my trailer. Apparently there are no mounting instructions available for my rails in the 5.5' box. I even called Trademasters but there were no notes on my account of how they mounted the hitch.

Luckily I had taken the measurements of where the rails were mounted in the original truck and I found a shop willing to do a custom instal to my specifications. So I suggest you ensure you can get whatever hitch you decide upon, installed in your truck. That may be a non-issue these days but my experience is you do not need a slider hitch or any special set-back of the hitch to haul or tow the 5.0TA. We have no problems with maneuverability and can turn as sharply as we ever need to.

We find the Reese hitch perfectly suitable for our trailer. It's the only hitch I've ever used, it's simple and it just works. The head comes off with two pins and the rest of the hitch comes off with 4 pins. I have no trouble taking those parts out of the truck when I need the space for other uses. Then I put a rubber bed mat over the rails but they do impede sliding heavy objects in the box. I can work around that.

I have bought a topper myself and know how handy they are. As described before, I have the ability to remove it for towing season but if that's not feasible for you be aware they are quite desirable on the used market and hold their value well. I do like to have the box covered when not towing. There is a whole range of tonneau covers available at price points for everyone. Mine is an inexpensive roll-up and serves us well.

I hope this helps.

Everything about hitches sounds like a foreign language at this point….I’ll understand it all soon enough. Thanks for all of your help. I’m convinced the 5.0 is a fantastic trailer.

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by iamunique127

Luckily I had taken the measurements of where the rails were mounted in the original truck and I found a shop willing to do a custom instal to my specifications. So I suggest you ensure you can get whatever hitch you decide upon, installed in your truck.

A similar situation is what led us to buying our F150. I originally planned on pulling the 5.0 with our 2020 Nissan Frontier 6' bed. I didn't even think it would be a problem having a hitch installed. When we got word we won the ETI lottery and it was time to pickup the trailer, I couldn't find anybody including custom shops, that would install a universal rail kit and an Anderson hitch. Most shops will only install bolt on kits. Not sure if that is a liability issue or simply not wanting to spend the time. As a last resort, I called Trademasters and they said they would do it but time was getting really tight. That's when we decided to purchase the F150 and the rest was history.

FWIW, Installing a Curt Gooseneck hide-away ball and Anderson ultimate hitch plus a 7 pin in the bed of the truck was only a couple hundred bucks more than the quote from Trademasters.

[marsman]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

I had drops installed in all overhead cabinets. I added interior strip lights to each cabinet in both my 17B & the 21. Makes it easier to find stuff, particularly at night. I added a micro toggle switch for the lights; some have used magnetic or other switches that turn on the light when ever the door opens. I prefer the toggle switch since I often leave the cabinet doors open to even out the temperature & wouldn't want them glowing overnight.

I'm curious John, did you just tie into the 12V wires that run through the cabinets to power the lights? Also, are your switch(es)? on the outside of one of the cabinets?