RMD Exhaust Flue

[MyronL]

I am ready to try anything. If the issue is at the tee pipe, how about trying this?
(....After you've pulled the fridge out a couple times the toil gets to be routine.)

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by elongest

The plumbing on my 8555 is different from the 8551 pictured. The line out of the boiler comes up and bends slightly over the T exhaust. It then turns to the front of the trailer and runs by then enters the condenser from the front of the trailer. With the T installed there is not a straight shot up to the roof vent with a dryer hose. That is why the flexible tube is needed with the T installed......Like Charlie I tried to pre-form the hose and positioned the hose over the T with a yardstick.
Eddie

Thanks for clarifying to me in PM you snipped the rear half of screen to go in. Took a 10 x 10" tamp to press down 2/3 of my 8' length of tube from Home Depot. Slit it 3" up like you said. Was wondering how the heck it was going to move sightly left towards front of trailer to drop down over the high side of T though. Luckily I had picked up a Sturdi-Stake for the yard and it did the trick. Also got lucky with a pre-made vent screen that fit in place. To fill the gap at the rear I slid the old screen down and bent it up & over the new one then tied it down used a Simpson strap to keep the new screen secure and have one of the vent cover screws going through the end of it.

Can really feel the heat coming up through that tube and hope to see the kind of difference reported by Charlie.

Thanks again Eddie!

[Rossue]

A photo-

[elongest]

MyronL
Check out my pictures in post #22. Looks like you could raise the T level with the top of the frig. to be able to remove the frig from the cabinet. If you pointed the T high side to exhaust over the coil it should help with the natural convection air flow through the coils.
Eddie

[MyronL]

Right. I got the impression the consensus here was hot exhaust flowing out the tee underneath the fins was the big problem. Moving the tee higher helps to bypass this issue. If I'm willing to pull the fridge to add to the tee pipe it might be easier and more elegant than cutting open the screen on the roof vent and fishing 3 inch exhaust tubing straight down and hoping to surround the Tee below.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by MyronL

I am ready to try anything. If the issue is at the tee pipe, how about trying this?
(....After you've pulled the fridge out a couple times the toil gets to be routine.)

Myron, that's been done before by someone on the forum. There are photos of it. It was a couple of years ago. Maybe someone with good search skills can find them.

I know your sketch isn't to scale but I think that the added tube was longer, about 6".

Ron

[Parker]

Look at Post #108 in this same thread. Kountry Kamper made an entirely new tee. Different fridge, but same idea.

[skiman]

I have been avoiding the idea of pulling the Frig like the plague. What all needs to be done. Trim on the inside? Foam applied along the bottom on the outside? Obviously disconnect gas line and unplug. Anything to break easily?

Toying with the idea of extending the flue.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Parker

Look at Post #108 in this same thread. Kountry Kamper made an entirely new tee. Different fridge, but same idea.

That works but there's no reason to fabricate a new top. A plain piece of copper tube worked for the other person.

Originally Posted by skiman

I have been avoiding the idea of pulling the Frig like the plague. What all needs to be done. Trim on the inside? Foam applied along the bottom on the outside? Obviously disconnect gas line and unplug. Anything to break easily?

Toying with the idea of extending the flue.

Pulling the fridge is pretty easy from a disconnect point of view. The biggest problem that I, and I think also others, had was the incredibly tight fit. I just about couldn't get mine out because of binding on the sides. I removed a bit of material before I slid it back in.

Ron

[Parker]

I've never pulled one from the Escape, but have from a Casita. I
It's pretty much as you described. I think I'd make up a wooden box-like support first to have something to slide it out onto. Our RML was pulled once by an RV shop (paid by ETI) trying to get it to cool , then it was pulled again during the exchange event. Both times they removed the trim, re-stapled it in place after the installation, and then applied brown wood putty over the staples. I have a new set of trim pieces here for the next time.

[MyronL]

Disconnect the AC plug, cut the red and black DC wires, unscrew the propane connection (easiest at the fitting to the propane governor than at the 1/2 inch feed - but must also unscrew small holding bracket). Then you make yourself a table on a dolly that just fits underneath the fridge and then to be safe, gently pry forward to remove all the face wood trim.

Oh, and there are 4 Roberts screws left and right inside, that must also be removed.

Like Ron said, it's a very very snug fit and pulling it out will take patience and great care. Door has side trim easily busted. I did not remove the door. If working alone once you get it started I found rocking it helps the big wiggle out.

[padlin]

I just unscrewed the 12 volt lines from the back of the fridge. Take a picture so you remember what goes where. I pulled the trim around the unit as well as the 1x2 on the bottom. Cut/remove any spray foam from the bottom of the back is you have it. I push the unit from the back far enough to grab from inside the trailer.

When reinstalling I have to shim up the back to get it flush to the trim, then install the 4 screws.

[MyronL]

OK, here's what I got. Found some steel pipe in garage which I cut to size. It slips right over the pipe the Tee connects to. The Tee fits right inside the threaded sleeve which I drilled hole in for a heavy duty screw and lock washer holding it in place. Then, thinking overkill, I cut up some duct sheet and riveted it as an extra shield. By the way this had to be cut away to drop it down in place because the pipe to the fins were touching the Tee pipe.

Question now is should I add another "tube" of ducting I might be able to shove up against the vent above, convincing it to sit properly.

[PGDriver]

I don't know Myron, you have achieved exhausting the hot flu exhaust above the cooling unit. I'm not sure if adding any additional ducting would make any difference.


Cheers
Doug

[MyronL]

That makes sense to me, too. I might just be feeling snake-bit. Will sleep on it.

[Ron in BC]

OK, being really super picky. Why not have the exhaust about 180* and how about a few holes low down on the shield to allow for a mini convection current, up and out?

Have a nice sleep.

Ron

[skiman]

Originally Posted by PGDriver

I don't know Myron, you have achieved exhausting the hot flu exhaust above the cooling unit. I'm not sure if adding any additional ducting would make any difference.


Cheers
Doug

I agree. Shouldn't the T be turned in to get it away from the plywood to avoid scorching the wood.

[elongest]

I bought a used 2310 Dometic 30" tall, narrow frame for a replacement frig. for my RMD if needed. The frig. had been removed from a pop-up. When I picked it up the guy said you might need this and handed me a through the wall flue extension. The wall plate is just riveted to the tube, so it is easy to adjust the wall plate angle.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by elongest

Top install 3" dryer duct exhaust chimney. I installed a 3" semi-rigid flexible aluminum duct over the Flue T then leading to the vent screen. Lampro 3" semi rigid aluminum duct, product L301. Bought it from the local Lowes. Flattened one end to abou1.5" wide and cut out one radius about 2" high. Slid the hose over the T used a stick to help position the hose. Put the notched end toward the inboard side of the trailer over the lower side of the T. Once in place you can use a stick inside the hose to get clearance at the high side of the T. It is a tight fit and things stay in place. Then attach the upper end to the screen. Used the complete hose as compressed as possible for support
Result: hot air exits the tube, cooler air exits over the coils. When the vent top is in place the hot air exits the rear of the upper vent. Seems to really thehelp cool down rate on gas. It also helps on the elec. mode
This is just what I did. Take the info. for what it is worth.

Three days after doing this mod another forum member sent me this link to the RMD8555 Owners manual with Installation instructions that did not come with my paperwork. It directly contradicts doing this mod on Page 14. Am wondering if I should take it out now.

Page 14 of Dometic Refrigerator RMD 8555 User Guide | ManualsOnline.com

[elongest]

The inst. instructions also calls for the use of a LS-300 Dometic intake grille for proper ventilation. Which is almost 40% larger than the Norcold grill being used. Another person earlier had installed the LS-300 and claimed good results.
I ordered and received a LS-300 and ran into a few minor obstacles with installation and decided to hold off on installation for now. The thing to look at here is if you can't get enough fresh air coming in you can't develop a good enough draft to flush out the hot air up top. Also Dometic indicate that excess heat and burner gasses in the lower section are allowed to flow out of the larger LS-300 vented lower area.
If the flue pointing to the wall with no attachments is how it is suppose to be, why does Dometic offer the overboard venting in other countries for this frig.? The modifications in this and other forums are what other owners have done to their own trailers. It is up to the individual if you use these modifications on your own trailer. One should expect not to have to do any modifications to OEM items to have them work properly.
Eddie