2012 4Runner (5th Gen) Factory Trailer Plug - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 08-02-2016, 01:14 PM   #11
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Shorter Stinger for Pro Series WDH

Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Very good point. The other user I conversed with that needed an extension did indeed run with a WDH. We are running a short fixed ball mount and that explains why we didn't need an extension. It had crossed my mind, but I didn't realize that the WD setup moves the trailer back as much as it apparently does.
I was able to tow the trailer back with a regular short ball mount without extending the wiring. It handled well but it was empty and there were only 2 passengers in the tow vehicle.

The trailer did come with a Pro Series V-5 / TD0747 / 113913 WDH that I would like to use on longer road trips when we are fully loaded. However the WDH extends the ball-mount back significantly further than the standard ball mount and necessitates extending the wiring. I can rewire the trailer with a new 7-Way Molded Connector w/ 10' Cable from the junction box inside.

Alternately, has anyone ever sourced a shorter stinger for the WDH?
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Old 08-02-2016, 01:21 PM   #12
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Is there any slack in the trailer 7-pin wiring? On mine, I have to take up slack by allowing some sag between the zip ties along the frame.
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File Type: jpg With WDH2.jpg (118.1 KB, 24 views)
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Old 08-02-2016, 01:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Is there any slack in the trailer 7-pin wiring? On mine, I have to take up slack by allowing some sag between the zip ties along the frame.
I pulled all the slack out of the trailer wiring and it gave me enough length to connect and make a reasonably sharp right hand turn using the standard ball mount. Unfortunately, there will not be enough slack for the additional 6" to 8" due to the WDH.

The receiver on the 4Runner is integrated into the rear bumper not recessed underneath like most other vehicles (including your RAV4 in the photo). The receiver is actually proud of the rear bumper due to the under-slung spare - see photo (I like to keep my vehicles really clean!). The spare also limits the depth that you can insert the stinger and I can only insert to the first pin hole. Both these combine to extend the ball even further back from the wiring connections. I was hoping that by finding a shorter stinger I could avoid replacing the wires.
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:07 PM   #14
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Many WD system shanks are relatively crudely fabricated from solid bar, and as long as the reinforcing gusset doesn't run into the receiver opening, you can just drill another hole for the pin at the shorter length (and cut off extra shank length if necessary). Example: Reese 3215. This is often done with plain ball mounts.

The Pro Series heads appear to be designed to work with a cast or forged shank - there only seems to be one choice which is part 63911. With this design (which is certainly better for strength and weight) the pin hole has a specific location and so modification with an additional pin hole seems unlikely to be appropriate. It is possible that even if the standard shank is this design, a plain solid shank may fit and work as well.

Some brands of WD shank are available in multiple lengths, as well as (more commonly) multiple heights.

I can't find "TD0747" or "113913" as a part number for either a Pro Series WD system, or (more likely) just the head or shank, so I have not been able to confirm that it is the cast or forged design, rather than the solid bar.
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msweet View Post
... The spare also limits the depth that you can insert the stinger and I can only insert to the first pin hole.
Ah, two pin holes... like the Reese 54970? The tail of the shank could be cut shorter (by the same amount as the distance between pin holes), although it would not be really quick or easy. Ideally, a bandsaw would be used, with lubricant to avoid excessive heat. Any metal fabrication shop should be able to do this; If I had this situation I wouldn't do it myself, only because I don't have a suitable saw and wouldn't want to do it with a grinder and cutoff wheel. I suppose a reciprocating saw would work, but it might take a bunch of blades...

This configuration of a short receiver socket immediately behind the tire and further back (relative to the bumper) than desired is now pretty well normal for SUVs, since SUV tires have become so large.
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Many WD system shanks are relatively crudely fabricated from solid bar, and as long as the reinforcing gusset doesn't run into the receiver opening, you can just drill another hole for the pin at the shorter length (and cut off extra shank length if necessary). Example: Reese 3215. This is often done with plain ball mounts.

The Pro Series heads appear to be designed to work with a cast or forged shank - there only seems to be one choice which is part 63911. With this design (which is certainly better for strength and weight) the pin hole has a specific location and so modification seems unlikely to be appropriate. It is possible that even if the standard shank is this design, a plain solid shank may fit and work as well.

Some brands of WD shank are available in multiple lengths, as well as (more commonly) multiple heights.

I can't find "TD0747" or "113913" as a part number for either a Pro Series WD system, or (more likely) just the head or shank, so I have not been able to confirm that it is the cast or forged design, rather than the solid bar.
Thanks for looking into it Brian! I have attached some photos of the WDH assembly. It looks like a new hole could be drilled further up the shank as you suggest. I can't see any reason why drilling and cutting the shank shorter would affect performance of the WDH. I'll have to drop the spare tire to see how far in it can slide before the taper stops travel and mark a new hole.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_6235.jpg (206.6 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_6236.jpg (127.0 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_6237.jpg (111.8 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_6238.jpg (100.4 KB, 8 views)
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Ah, two pin holes... like the Reese 54970?
Very similar - see photos in above post.
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Old 08-02-2016, 04:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msweet View Post
It looks like a new hole could be drilled further up the shank as you suggest. I can't see any reason why drilling and cutting the shank shorter would affect performance of the WDH.
I agree - that one maintains the thickness of the web well beyond the hole positions, unlike some.
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Old 08-02-2016, 06:37 PM   #19
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That sounds as if it is a good idea to have a new pin hole and cut the shank but you had better look at your lift gate. (We have an electrical extension cord. Escape would not make us a cord that fit and I was totally irked about that. With all of the custom items they do, that one looked easy.) On the lift gate, make sure you will still be able to open it. Also, don't know how such a change affects the rest of the WDH working together.
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:48 PM   #20
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We had the same issue with our 5th Gen 4runner and 19 ft trailer, I went around a corner and lost connectivity!! We had ETI replace the original cord for us (I think they extended it about a foot). Seems to work fine now, and I don't recall that it was very expensive to get this done.
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