Anderson WD hitch help, please! - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 03-18-2019, 03:05 PM   #11
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One more...

The rig is nearly perfectly level, maybe a tiny bit high at the front of the Escape, so close it is hard to tell.
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:17 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Treblemaker View Post
The rig is nearly perfectly level, maybe a tiny bit high at the front of the Escape, so close it is hard to tell.
The trailer level part is good, but we still have no idea if the WD system is adjusted properly. Is the front of the tow vehicle the same height as it is without the the trailer, or higher? Some people over-apply WD systems to level the tug, which is bad for the trailer, for the tug's structure, for the WD system, and for the stability of the whole rig. Most Andersen users probably don't over-apply the system, because that takes a huge amount of chain tension, but that doesn't mean that it hasn't happened here.

Under-applying a WD system is fine, as long as the tug's rear suspension is okay with the load. The Andersen WD's sway control feature works well as long as the chains are not slack - it doesn't need any more tension than that to do its sway control job.
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:29 PM   #13
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The tug front fender sits 1/8" higher without the trailer. Pretty close. I think we will take it into a local dealer and have them check everything, torque as needed just for peace of mind. Also going to get one of those tongue weight scales!! We are towing with a Nissan Frontier with tow package, 6100 towing less 198 for add-ons (bed liner, soft tonneau cover) and payload of 1398. Don't plan to put much except two adults, a dog, and a small cooler in the cab. Lightweight lawn chairs, small tool box, small bin of misc water hoses, etc in the back. Planning on upgrading to a larger truck in a couple of years, mostly towing in Missouri, Arkansas, and Texas. Total payload without tongue weight will be around 500 lbs. Also, we travel light when loading-never filled our Casita even for 6 week trips, and plan to stay with that lifestyle. Again, all advice is very much appreciated. This forum is awesome.
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Old 03-18-2019, 07:15 PM   #14
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You can order the Sherline with either 2,000 lb or 1,000 lb. gauge. The 1,000 lb will be easier to read and more accurate. Normally comes with the 2,000 lb. so you'll have to specify. I'd order direct from Sherline.
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Old 03-18-2019, 07:54 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Treblemaker View Post
The tug front fender sits 1/8" higher without the trailer. Pretty close.
Very close, but the WD system is actually slightly over-applied, pulling the front down a bit too much. If you adjust, go for less chain tension, not more.
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Old 03-18-2019, 08:43 PM   #16
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We will definitely adjust, we want it to be perfect. It is so great to have folks who can help us troubleshoot. We will need to move the brackets on the trailer forward a bit I believe-the chains were pretty tight with very little slack.
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Old 03-18-2019, 08:44 PM   #17
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Found the 1000! Thank you!
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Old 03-18-2019, 09:01 PM   #18
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The initial installation of the Andersen brackets on the trailer frame rails can vary. This will cause the number of visible threads to vary,as a result. Some will say they use as many as five, six, or more threads showing. Others are perfectly fine with two or three.

The thread count is used for consistency, but is not a means of determining your best set up.
Follow the other suggestions you have been getting. A final thought, if it hasnít been said already. You jack the trailer up a fair bit before attaching or disconnecting the chains. This reduces the cranking effort and sound. Then get your preferred thread count and lower the main jack, and youíre done.
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Old 04-14-2019, 09:14 PM   #19
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I'm a little late to the party, but here's what I do. Hope it makes sense.

I rarely ever use the large Anderson socket. I set the threads, 3 for us, prior to connecting the trailer to the tow vehicle using my fingers. With the triangle plate disconnected from the bottom of the Anderson, I drop the trailer tongue on the ball, close the ball retaining mechanism, lift the trailer tongue and ball with my tongue jack until I can install the triangle plate, insert the retaining pin below the triangle, and lower for towing. To disconnect I again raise the tongue using my tongue jack until the chains go slack, pull the pin below the triangle, drop the triangle, lower the tongue until I can unlatch the retaining mechanism, and raise the tongue until it comes disconnected from the ball. It sounds a little long, but it really goes fast, and I get the same setting every time. Of course, you already have to know what your thread count should be.
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