Owners of F150 with the 6 1/2’ box - what 5th wheel hitch?

[Al Y]

Sorry to do this to you, I’m sure it’s been beat up a lot. I’ve called three shops now and not getting too much reliable information so thought I’d ask here to find out what works in real life.

While I could make an appointment when heading to Chilliwack to get it done at Trademasters, I’d prefer to have it all done so there are fewer things to go wrong once I’m there.

What hitch (I like the idea of the Anderson) are you using in your F150 with a
6 1/2’ box to safely pull the 5.0? When I look at the Anderson Hitch website there are a myriad of hitches that make my eyes glaze over.

Appreciate it.

[Jeremy Kessenich]

You will have two choices, rail mount or gooseneck/turnover ball. I have the turnoverball as I didn't want the rails. The rail mount hitch is physically smaller than the gooseneck/turnover ball hitch. I liked the turnover ball so I wouldn't have the rails when the hitch isn't in the bed. Folks that have the rails like the rails so I can't say anything - about them. If you go the gooseneck/turnoverball hitch you will need to get the B&W Turnoverball hitch mounted under the bed of the truck. If you need help with which one let the group know.

So rail mount or turnoverball is your first choice, that determines which Anderson hitch you get. I can't speak to the traditional hitches other than the weight difference is very substantial. Like 100 lbs more. I'll post a picture of how I store my hitch which is a factor. Meaning it's not just while it's in the truck, what are going to do with it when it's not in the truck.

[Jeremy Kessenich]

Wall mounted and out of the way.

[Al Y]

Originally Posted by Jeremy Kessenich

You will have two choices, rail mount or gooseneck/turnover ball. I have the turnoverball as I didn't want the rails. The rail mount hitch is physically smaller than the gooseneck/turnover ball hitch. I liked the turnover ball so I wouldn't have the rails when the hitch isn't in the bed. Folks that have the rails like the rails so I can't say anything - about them. If you go the gooseneck/turnoverball hitch you will need to get the B&W Turnoverball hitch mounted under the bed of the truck. If you need help with which one let the group know.

So rail mount or turnoverball is your first choice, that determines which Anderson hitch you get. I can't speak to the traditional hitches other than the weight difference is very substantial. Like 100 lbs more. I'll post a picture of how I store my hitch which is a factor. Meaning it's not just while it's in the truck, what are going to do with it when it's not in the truck.

Thanks. Yes I like the idea of the Anderson because of their weight. I think, if I am correct, that when the hitch is out that the rails won’t be a big issue for me, as I’m generally not sliding plywood etc into the box. I also like the idea of the rails/hitch taking up less room when pulling the fifth wheel, but I do get the fact that the turnover ball system keeps the bottom of the box clean for use when not pulling the 5.0.

Would the #3200 be the right rail mount Anderson hitch?
https://andersenhitches.com/product/...-compatibility

[Al Y]

Originally Posted by Jeremy Kessenich

Wall mounted and out of the way.

NIce! ...and that EFI Ariens looks sweet too. I have a new Pro28 but no EFI and just the wheeled version

[occer]

Originally Posted by Al Y

Thanks
Would the #3200 be the right rail mount Anderson hitch?
https://andersenhitches.com/product/...-compatibility

Yes the #3200 is the rail mount Anderson hitch.
I have a Chevy 6 1/2 bed and the rail mount hitch.
I had the option of either a Curtis traditional rail 5th wheel hitch or the Anderson.
I tried both hitches and choice the Anderson. Both do the job.
My reason for the Anderson was more for the ease of taking the hitch in and out of the truck. I chose the rail system because the cost was less, by a lot.

[Al Y]

Originally Posted by occer

Yes the #3200 is the rail mount Anderson hitch.
I have a Chevy 6 1/2 bed and the rail mount hitch.
I had the option of either a Curtis traditional rail 5th wheel hitch or the Anderson.
I tried both hitches and choice the Anderson. Both do the job.
My reason for the Anderson was more for the ease of taking the hitch in and out of the truck. I chose the rail system because the cost was less, by a lot.

Thank you. #3200 it is

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Al Y

Thank you. #3200 it is

I happen to have the turnoverball with Andersen similar to Jeremy in my 6.5ft bed F150, but if you don't mind the rails IMO you can't go wrong with the #3200.

Tip 1: You might consider the no-bracket / no-drill (uses existing holes in the pinbox) installation for the coupler-block cable & handle on the trailer as pictured below (I'm not the first, others here have posted using this method, too). IMO it's a very 'clean', robust, and convenient cable & handle mounting option.

Not sure if ETI will do this if you send them your coupler for pre-pickup installation (it requires a bit of cable disassembly / reassembly) but maybe they'll agree to temporarily zip-tie the cable bracket to the frame as I did when I installed my own block at a hub delivery location (finishing the cable installation when I got home miles and days later, no worries).

Tip 2: The Curt 57008 plug-and-play (no wire cutting/splicing) 7-pin harness extension provides a very convenient in-bed socket for your umbilical connection. You do of course have to drill (holesaw) the bedside to install, I located mine above the wheel-well where it's easy to reach from outside the bed, well-protected by the bed rail overhang, and above most stuff you're likely to pile in the bed. Compatible with all years of aluminum body F150, full function of the OE bumper mounted socket is retained.

Just for your consideration, Congrats on your impending 5.0, and Happy Trailering!

[Al Y]

Originally Posted by Centex

I happen to have the turnoverball with Andersen similar to Jeremy in my 6.5ft bed F150, but if you don't mind the rails IMO you can't go wrong with the #3200.

Tip 1: You might consider the no-bracket / no-drill (uses existing holes in the pinbox) installation for the coupler-block cable & handle on the trailer as pictured below (others have posted using this method, too). IMO it's a very 'clean', robust, and convenient cable & handle mounting option.

Not sure if ETI will do this if you send them your coupler for pre-pickup installation (it requires a bit of cable disassembly / reassembly) but maybe they'll agree to temporarily zip-tie the cable bracket to the frame as I did when I installed my own block at a hub delivery location (finishing the cable installation when I got home).

Tip 2: The Curt 57008 plug-and-play (no wire cutting/splicing) 7-pin harness extension provides a very convenient in-bed socket for your umbilical connection. You do of course have to drill (holesaw) the bedside to install, I located mine above the wheel-well where it's easy to reach from outside the bed and well-protected by the bed rail overhang. Compatible with all years of aluminum body F150, full function of the OE bumper mounted socket is retained.

Just for your consideration, Congrats on your impending 5.0, and Happy Trailering!

Thanks. I watched a video suggesting the 5.0's 7 wire harness is long enough to reach the existing 7 pin socket at the bumper?

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Al Y

I watched a video suggesting the 5.0's 7 wire harness is long enough to reach the existing 7 pin socket at the bumper?

Yes, my umbilical is long enough to reach the bumper socket.

I just find the in-bed connector without the umbilical draped over the tailgate more convenient and aesthetically pleasing.

YMMV, no worries!

[Darox]

We have a 2018 F150 with the 6.5 box and use the rail mounted Anderson hitch with our 2020 5.0 TA. Can turn at 90 degree angle no problem. Been great towing, no problems.

[Jeremy Kessenich]

I shipped my Anderson coupler to ETI last spring and they installed it as Alan has pictured without my asking, I didn't know to ask for it, so perhaps they are defaulting to install it that way. Definitely worth checking. As a side note I had on hand but forgot to ship the chain loops for the safety chains. If I remember correctly they do not come with the purchase of the coupler, you have to buy them separately. So I sent them to ETI in a separate box.

[Al Y]

Originally Posted by Centex

Yes, my umbilical is long enough to reach the bumper socket.

I just find the in-bed connector without the umbilical draped over the tailgate more convenient and aesthetically pleasing.

YMMV, no worries!

Makes sense, thanks. I was asking more to understand the big picture.

[SageRpod]

Just adding on to the fans of the Andersen hitch. We have the B&W Turn Over ball/Andersen hitch combo. A little more expensive than the rail setup but well worth being able to have a totally flat bed when you need it. The B&W Turn Over setup is a bolt on application and many shops will already have the unit in stock. No frame drilling needed.

The hitch installer also mounted a 7pin in the bed of the truck. Like that setup much better than draping the electrical cable down to the OEM plug.

[Al Y]

So besides the complete Anderson 3200 hitch with coupler and cable, a person needs a universal rail mount kit to fit your specific truck, right?

Every hitch company in Vernon I called wanted to sell me a sliding hitch. I wasn’t getting anywhere with them There is one company that sells Anderson that I will call today and make some inquiries. I may still head to Chilliwack early (I have a friend there I could stay with) and get Trademasters to do it, if needed.

Last question... cause I see used Anderson 3200 hitches on Marketplace for sale. Would you guys ever buy a used Anderson hitch, or is that not a road to go down cause they are so integral to safety?

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by Al Y

So besides the complete Anderson 3200 hitch with coupler and cable, a person needs a universal rail mount kit to fit your specific truck, right?

Every hitch company in Vernon I called wanted to sell me a sliding hitch. I wasn’t getting anywhere with them There is one company that sells Anderson that I will call today and make some inquiries. I may still head to Chilliwack early (I have a friend there I could stay with) and get Trademasters to do it, if needed.

Last question... cause I see used Anderson 3200 hitches on Marketplace for sale. Would you guys ever buy a used Anderson hitch, or is that not a road to go down cause they are so integral to safety?

Oddly. We couldn't find anyone that would install a universal rail kit other than Trademasters in Chiliwack.

Also, if you go with the Andersen, you will also need to get safety chains. Some states require them. Some don't. They aren't that big of a deal so I'd just get them.

[Al Y]

Originally Posted by SageRpod

Just adding on to the fans of the Andersen hitch. We have the B&W Turn Over ball/Andersen hitch combo. A little more expensive than the rail setup but well worth being able to have a totally flat bed when you need it. The B&W Turn Over setup is a bolt on application and many shops will already have the unit in stock. No frame drilling needed.

The hitch installer also mounted a 7pin in the bed of the truck. Like that setup much better than draping the electrical cable down to the OEM plug.

To be honest, I do like the sound of the ’turn over ball’ idea. How does the ’turn over ball’ unit get mounted? Do they cut a hole in the bed bottom and the frame for the B&W unit is mounted between the frame rails?

Guess with the purchase of the trailer etc I was liking the less expensive 3200...

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by Al Y

To be honest, I do like the sound of the ’turn over ball’ idea. How does the ’turn over ball’ unit get mounted? Do they cut a hole in the bed bottom and the frame for the B&W unit is mounted between the frame rails?

Guess with the purchase of the trailer etc I was liking the less expensive 3200...

Yep. There is a F150 specific mount and it saddles the frame of the truck. They cut a hole in the bed for the ball mount as well as four smaller holes for the spring loaded safety chain loops. A spring loaded rod passes through the truck frame on the drivers side which releases the ball and allows it to be turned over. The install took several hours.

[iamunique127]

Originally Posted by Al Y

So besides the complete Anderson 3200 hitch with coupler and cable, a person needs a universal rail mount kit to fit your specific truck, right?

Every hitch company in Vernon I called wanted to sell me a sliding hitch. I wasn’t getting anywhere with them There is one company that sells Anderson that I will call today and make some inquiries. I may still head to Chilliwack early (I have a friend there I could stay with) and get Trademasters to do it, if needed.

We had our ETI-supplied hitch installed at Trademasters. Unlike most hitch places I've experienced they are familiar with Escape trailers and installation was a non-issue.

I've had no end of problems with other shops when I went to switch my hitch from one truck to another of the same model. I finally found a shop that was open to do a custom instal to match the instal done by Trademasters but it took a lot of looking.

[Al Y]

Originally Posted by iamunique127

We had our ETI-supplied hitch installed at Trademasters. Unlike most hitch places I've experienced they are familiar with Escape trailers and installation was a non-issue.

I've had no end of problems with other shops when I went to switch my hitch from one truck to another of the same model. I finally found a shop that was open to do a custom instal to match the instal done by Trademasters but it took a lot of looking.

ETI supplied hitch?