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Old 12-27-2012, 11:40 AM   #11
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Thanks to all who have posted so far.

It is encouraging to read that winter camping can be enjoyable when reasonable precautions are taken. I would welcome any further advice and would also like to read additional accounts of cold weather camping.

Do cold temperatures tend to make any of parts of the trailer brittle and prone to break?

Thanks,
Rich
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:05 PM   #12
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I have dry camped down to -10 C for several days while out hunting, (Moose)
I pour trailer anti- freeze into the black water and grey water tank, about a gallon in each tank.
Then if I use the toilet it does not freeze an I can dump it when I come home, same applies to the sink if I use it.

Doug
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:25 AM   #13
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Hi Folks,
Hi Folks,
We are three days with our 17 B. After working normally in a Walmart at 30 degrees the night before, we came back to the trailer after a day of skiing at 24 degrees to find we had no propane in the trailer although both tanks have at least some propane. Any thoughts about how to proceed with this?
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:30 AM   #14
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The tanks have an automatic switch over, when one is empty or getting low it will switch to the full one, if you have 2 partially filled tanks then you will probably need to refill both to activate the "automatic" switch over feature. Also carry a back up for emergency-
http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-SportC...propane+heater
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:49 AM   #15
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The valves on both tanks need to be open before the automatic changeover takes place.
If you open the valve on the second tank after the automatic changeover has flipped it may not work . BBQ grills have a similar issue if you open the burner valve ahead of the tank valve, gas flow is restricted
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Old 01-10-2015, 11:03 AM   #16
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And at least once a day, check the switchover valve to see the status of the tanks. Note the red arrow in the pic (ignore all other text and arrows) pointing to the GREEN showing. If there is RED showing, one tank is empty and the unit has automatically switched over to the second tank. It's then time to turn the pointer valve (black valve, lower right in the pic) to the second tank and remove the first (empty) tank to get it refilled.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg SwitchoverPic.jpg (240.8 KB, 26 views)
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Old 01-10-2015, 11:15 AM   #17
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Taking it you started with them both full. I'd , turn them off, disconnect them, lift both and see if one has more then the other. If both the same I'd guess they are both MT, take one or both out to get em filled. If one feels heavier, reconnect it, turn the automatic switchover to that side, turn on the valve and see if it goes green. If so you should be good to go. Go fill the other.

be interesting to know if the Escape burned all 40 lbs in 3 days.
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Old 01-10-2015, 11:38 AM   #18
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A full 20 lb tank of propane contains 430,000 BTU' s .The BTU input of the furnace is 12,000, if I am reading the furnace specs correctly . So the furnace should be able to run for approx 36 hours at full burner on one tank of gas . Burning 2 "Full" tanks of propane in 3 days seems unlikely . We live in Northern Wisconsin so the amount of propane it really takes to heat a trailer in winter is of great interest to us
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Old 01-10-2015, 11:45 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yardsale View Post
Hi Folks,
Hi Folks,
We are three days with our 17 B. After working normally in a Walmart at 30 degrees the night before, we came back to the trailer after a day of skiing at 24 degrees to find we had no propane in the trailer although both tanks have at least some propane. Any thoughts about how to proceed with this?
Is it possible to get some water in the propane line? If the water froze it would stop propane flow. Did the propane system work again when the weather warmed?

No experience with this, might make no sense, but sounds like a good theory on Saturday morning.

Thanks.
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Old 01-10-2015, 02:45 PM   #20
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If the temperature is low enough, there won't be enough propane pressure for appliances to work.... but 24 F is not cold enough for that.
Whenever propane is used from a tank, the remaining propane in the tank is chilled by the loss of heat needed to vapourize liquid propane to gas. In cold weather, it can cause that same low temperature / low pressure problem. At just below freezing, a fast propane use (such as by a furnace rather than just a refrigerator or stove burner) from a small enough tank could be a problem, but I think a 20-pound tank and 12,000 BTU/hr furnace should be okay.

A common problem is water contamination freezing in the regulator. When the gas is reduced in pressure it also drops in temperature, and so this is the likely location for freezing. I've had to take a regulator off and take it into a heated building to thaw it out and get it working again.

The auto-changeover valve is driven by pressure. It normally connects the selected tank to the regulator, but when the selected tank runs out and its pressure drops the difference in pressure moves the valve. If there isn't enough difference, it won't switch... and might not even connect properly to the selected tank. I found when running a propane furnace in another trailer in the winter that I was better off with a non-switching regulator.
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