WINTERIZING: updated Oct. 29, 2013 - Page 6 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 09-28-2014, 01:21 PM   #51
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To get rid of most of the water before pumping in antifreeze (if using antifreeze), a low point drain seems sufficient to me. The only situation in which I would consider blowing out water before adding antifreeze would be if there were no low point drain (which is the case for some Escapes).

My guess is that Reace eliminated the low point drain to keep people from depending on draining alone after the change in the toilet valve. As another benefit, eliminating the valve eliminates a complication for insulating the underside. I think I would still rather have the drain(s).
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Old 09-28-2014, 01:35 PM   #52
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And, off to the side, you likely eat RV antifreeze regularly. Ice cream, for instance.
10 Foods That Have Antifreeze β€’ Eat It to Beat It : Eat It to Beat It
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Old 09-28-2014, 01:36 PM   #53
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I don't have any low point drains in Ten Forward. But, I was able to purchase 20/10 RV Antifreeze at Bi-Mart last week for $2.99 a gallon.

I have a very old (but works fine), Black & Deck Air Station. Does anyone know if it would work to blow out the lines, if I get a blow out plug? The end of the hose has a lever you rotate and that squeezes rubber against the stem for a seal. I air up bicycle tires and the trailer tires with the air station...
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Old 09-28-2014, 01:42 PM   #54
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Could be wrong, but I think the problem with the type of air compressor you buy for $20 to fill bicycle tires and such is that it doesn't deliver a constant pressure. It cycles on and off as the pump works so water in the lines would just flow forward and back.
A proper air compressor has a tank that contains a considerable amount of pressurized air, enough to clear the lines without back flow.
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Old 09-28-2014, 06:16 PM   #55
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What is this antifreeze thing you all speak of?
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Old 09-28-2014, 06:33 PM   #56
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What is this antifreeze thing you all speak of?
You know you you have air conditioning.....kinda the opposite.
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:00 PM   #57
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Could be wrong, but I think the problem with the type of air compressor you buy for $20 to fill bicycle tires and such is that it doesn't deliver a constant pressure. It cycles on and off as the pump works so water in the lines would just flow forward and back.
A proper air compressor has a tank that contains a considerable amount of pressurized air, enough to clear the lines without back flow.
No the air station doesn't cycle on and off at all. I think when I get back from Fall NOG I'll just try it. And then let y'all know the results
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:11 PM   #58
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Presumably, the only way you will know if it worked is to blow out the lines again, using a proper air compressor. If no water comes out, then it worked.
That's why I like using the pink stuff. I know it has filled the lines when the tap runs pink.
I used the low point drain and my 6 gal. compressor, but always had a nagging feeling that maybe I didn't get all the water out.
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:30 PM   #59
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Could be wrong, but I think the problem with the type of air compressor you buy for $20 to fill bicycle tires and such is that it doesn't deliver a constant pressure. It cycles on and off as the pump works so water in the lines would just flow forward and back.
They have almost the opposite issue: they don't have any way to set a desired pressure, so they just keep running until they can't push the air pressure any higher (which would be much higher than desired in the plumbing) or they burn out. Some care in watching pressure would be required, although it seems manageable to me.

The lack of a tank with these little compressors does mean pulsations, but very small ones which would not be relevant compared to the volume of the plumbing.
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:43 PM   #60
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They have almost the opposite issue: they don't have any way to set a desired pressure, so they just keep running until they can't push the air pressure any higher (which would be much higher than desired in the plumbing) or they burn out. Some care in watching pressure would be required, although it seems manageable to me.

The lack of a tank with these little compressors does mean pulsations, but very small ones which would not be relevant compared to the volume of the plumbing.
I have to agree. I usually use a regulated air compressor set at 40 PSI to blow out my water lines, however I have used a 12V tire pump. The one I used has a gauge, but no regulator. If you attach it to the fresh water inlet, you have to watch the gauge to be sure you don't go over 50 PSI. While that probably won't happen with a faucet open, it could with everything closed. Definitely a two person job, one at the pump & one running around to the various valves & faucets. Much easier (and a one person job) with a regulated pump.
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