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Old 07-01-2015, 02:41 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Ahead of you Rich bought a Penquin cooler a year ago a little cheaper but made real well . After done with this fixing need to drag along . In the 19 , 2 people and 3 dogs got to find a place . Don't want to have to go out to truck every time . That was the purpose for better table lift . Can stick cooler on passenger bench and still sit at table . In winter the smaller cooler works ok . Fits right under fridge . Summer is the problem . Pat
Just following your lead, Pat.
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Old 07-01-2015, 04:08 PM   #142
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Re read post #110 . The 2 previous Dometic I had didn't have these huge clearance's all around .Dometic recommends 0-1 in all around . Don't know about yours but the cavity back there is way over that . The walls of these new frigs are not as insulated or thick as someone posted earlier mentioned Insulation is very important . It is interesting if you have the new and improved 6.7 you are happy . Good for you . You are not experiencing what we are. I changed out my heating element in both my previous Dometic's and also removed them for other reason's . One in a 1979 class C , one in a 1992 camper . I owned both for 12-13 years each and was 2nd owners with both so they were old hence needed a little 40. repair . You don't think we know what we are experiencing ? As Jubal said maybe not sell this 4.3 unit anymore unless you know what you are in for . I have said before even though I didn't want or need a huge frig if I knew what I know now would of gotten the 6.7 instead for 200 more . I am getting close to spending that now anyway . Pat
Pat, I'm not addressing installation issues. Those can be corrected, and should. As to what you're experiencing, yes, I can read. The issue with the 4.3 and inadequate cooling has been well documented here, on multiple threads.

What I was addressing is that an SN fridge isn't designed for hotter climates, and I sincerely doubt that any revised installation can correct that all the way.

I was also addressing the fact that ETI is caught between a rock and a hard place when it comes to SN fridges (the only ones they can get that will fit in an Escape) and the expectation that they will cool adequately in hot weather. Even with the "improved" 6.7 two door, we have to be careful how we use it when its hot. When Dometic offers a high performance fridge in North America that is the right size for an Escape, the issues will be solved. Don't hold your breath.
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:59 PM   #143
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Summing up my test results: All was looking good, I thought.

I got home at 6 this evening, and saw the latest inside fridge temp was a 10 degree jump-up sometime this afternoon, to 46°f. Had been a constant 5 dots, shore power, no food inside, the entire test period.

Other notable issue: at 6 PM sun obscured by cloud cover, the outside temp reading showed 103° f. A quick check of a different thermometer we keep in the back porch, in the shade, read 88°. Confirms suspicions my tongue box is a hot box, not to be trusted with a remote sensor.

My 11,000 BTU Dometic AC, however, worked superbly.
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Old 07-01-2015, 08:05 PM   #144
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Summing up my test results: All was looking good, I thought.

I got home at 6 this evening, and saw the latest inside fridge temp was a 10 degree jump-up sometime this afternoon, to 46°f. Had been a constant 5 dots, shore power, no food inside, the entire test period.

Other notable issue: at 6 PM sun obscured by cloud cover, the outside temp reading showed 103° f. A quick check of a different thermometer we keep in the back porch, in the shade, read 88°. Confirms suspicions my tongue box is a hot box, not to be trusted with a remote sensor.

My 11,000 BTU Dometic AC, however, worked superbly.
Hmm. The last stat might be an anomaly? I'd measure a couple more times for comparison.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:32 PM   #145
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Dometic RM8551 insufficent cooling

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pics where I am going to put frig frig now, and I have to undo my fan Pat
Tom and Rich here is where I am now . Have cavity insulated , made new 45 degree baffle . bypassed fan from limit switch , wired it to a new switch on front of my refig . For good measure used a outdoor finish on wood . Couldn't resist. Dometic in manual said to use non wicking wood so I coated it . I also have a another fan to put up on the wall . i cut out the hole for switch too . Haven't wired and installed that yet .Maybe tomorrow can put my trig back . Pat
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:35 PM   #146
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Dometic RM8551 insufficent cooling

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Tom and Rich here is where I am now . Have cavity insulated , made new 45 degree baffle . bypassed fan from limit switch , wired it to a new switch on front of my refig . For good measure used a outdoor finish on wood . Couldn't resist. Dometic in manual said to use non wicking wood so I coated it . I also have a another fan to put up on the wall . i cut out the hole for switch too . Haven't wired and installed that yet .Maybe tomorrow can put my frig back . Pat
another picture
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:55 AM   #147
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If that doesn't help, I do not know what will, nice job.
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:49 AM   #148
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Looks good Pat!!

You will love to hear this but maybe consider installing a second baffle just below the condenser so it pushes the rising air directly over the condenser and the air does not move away again before passing by the condenser. If I was doing mine again the second baffle would be placed at a 45 angle too. This was a test that worked so I will change if I ever pull the fridge again.
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Old 07-07-2015, 07:19 AM   #149
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Big progress Pat! It's hard for me to tell from the photos, but did you install a panel of thin (luan) plywood in the cavity as shown in Reace's photos? Or, did you just insulate the wall of the trailer behind the fridge? One last suggestion that may save you some trouble later: cut a piece of scrap trim the EXACT depth of your fridge after it's put back in and use it as a guide to make sure that the fridge will not bump into any of your new construction. After reinstalling the fridge, I had to take it out again to do some fine tuning to my work. Like Tom, I'm becoming quite adept at removing it (but which like you and him, I never want to do again). You're clearly a skilled craftsperson! I love seeing nice, clean work. Great job!
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:06 AM   #150
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If that doesn't help, I do not know what will, nice job.
Thank you Jim ! Pat
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:13 AM   #151
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Looks good Pat!!

You will love to hear this but maybe consider installing a second baffle just below the condenser so it pushes the rising air directly over the condenser and the air does not move away again before passing by the condenser. If I was doing mine again the second baffle would be placed at a 45 angle too. This was a test that worked so I will change if I ever pull the fridge again.
Tom I was going to ask you about the extra piece you have in pictures . Don't forget Reace wanted me to put back the brown metal piece Escape had attached . It covers the back at the condenser . They had it wired to the fins .the top of the boiler tube hits that and maybe if my fan can move the air up it will work ? . I can take another picture in a bit . Pat
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:26 AM   #152
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Big progress Pat! It's hard for me to tell from the photos, but did you install a panel of thin (luan) plywood in the cavity as shown in Reace's photos? Or, did you just insulate the wall of the trailer behind the fridge? One last suggestion that may save you some trouble later: cut a piece of scrap trim the EXACT depth of your fridge after it's put back in and use it as a guide to make sure that the fridge will not bump into any of your new construction. After reinstalling the fridge, I had to take it out again to do some fine tuning to my work. Like Tom, I'm becoming quite adept at removing it (but which like you and him, I never want to do again). You're clearly a skilled craftsperson! I love seeing nice, clean work. Great job!
Rich not quite following . The insulation silver was already there. I asked Tom about the metal piece . Picture coming after I have some coffee. I do have more Reflex for installation . I will tell you though . I used the Reflex in the ceiling of a studio I built . To properly install there should be a 3/4 air space . I got that air space by stapling between the rafters in ceiling holding it down the 3/4 in . I don't know how good this is up against the fiberglass but I guess it is better then nothing . I can put more on what is there ? You can see I am not making sense yet . I need some coffee. Pat
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:43 PM   #153
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Looks good Pat!!

You will love to hear this but maybe consider installing a second baffle just below the condenser so it pushes the rising air directly over the condenser and the air does not move away again before passing by the condenser. If I was doing mine again the second baffle would be placed at a 45 angle too. This was a test that worked so I will change if I ever pull the fridge again.
Ok straightened out my wires for the Dometic fan . Hooked up to my car battery to see if she runs . She does and my led also works . Now to install my ventilator fan from Dometic . It is bigger so I need to go above frig in cavity . I can turn that one on if need be in heat to help move that hot air out to roof . Then I can put frig back . Do you agree about the metal Escape put at back ? Pat
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:27 PM   #154
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Rich not quite following . The insulation silver was already there. I asked Tom about the metal piece . Picture coming after I have some coffee. I do have more Reflex for installation . I will tell you though . I used the Reflex in the ceiling of a studio I built . To properly install there should be a 3/4 air space . I got that air space by stapling between the rafters in ceiling holding it down the 3/4 in . I don't know how good this is up against the fiberglass but I guess it is better then nothing . I can put more on what is there ? You can see I am not making sense yet . I need some coffee. Pat
Pat, see post number 35 in this thread. The link shows pictures of the Luan plywood chimney/flue Reace designed for the cavity behind the fridge; that is what I did. My question to you was, are you doing that too?

NEW QUESTION FOR ALL WHO HAVE REMOVED THEIR FRIDGE AND WHO ORDERED THE EXTRA INSULATION PACKAGE:

was there any insulation behind your fridge on the wall of the trailer installed? Pat indicates that she did receive insulation and some photos posted here appear that there is insulation (whether or not installed by ETI is my question). I ordered the insulation package and there was no insulation behind the fridge. I emailed ETI recently and they said they don't insulate there. Confused as always ... but my fridge is now cold!
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Old 07-07-2015, 07:43 PM   #155
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Pat, see post number 35 in this thread. The link shows pictures of the Luan plywood chimney/flue Reace designed for the cavity behind the fridge; that is what I did. My question to you was, are you doing that too?

NEW QUESTION FOR ALL WHO HAVE REMOVED THEIR FRIDGE AND WHO ORDERED THE EXTRA INSULATION PACKAGE:

was there any insulation behind your fridge on the wall of the trailer installed? Pat indicates that she did receive insulation and some photos posted here appear that there is insulation (whether or not installed by ETI is my question). I ordered the insulation package and there was no insulation behind the fridge. I emailed ETI recently and they said they don't insulate there. Confused as always ... but my fridge is now cold!
Rich I did order extra insulation and that was there behind frig . I found my build pictures and I have a lot . I will start posting a few at time as soon as I can . I didn't know at the time how to post pictures . Almost ready to put frig in . Pat
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:05 PM   #156
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I have the extra insulation package and there was none in my fridge area. What is shown in my picture is what I installed.

I originally did the baffle that ETI had in the pictures they sent out but did not find it to work good for some reason I can not explain. You can see in the picture of my baffles where I ripped out the vertical thin plywood if you look close just above the top baffle. I then added the lower baffle and relocated the top baffle to just below the condenser and it seemed to work better.

Pat
I don't know about that metal piece they wired to your condenser. In theory it should work and push the air across the condenser. Up to you but I would lean toward a more permanent baffle if possible. I know that's not what you want to hear at this point of the project and it should go back in if you don't have a baffle near the condenser.
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:35 PM   #157
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I have the extra insulation package and there was none in my fridge area. What is shown in my picture is what I installed.

I originally did the baffle that ETI had in the pictures they sent out but did not find it to work good for some reason I can not explain. You can see in the picture of my baffles where I ripped out the vertical thin plywood if you look close just above the top baffle. I then added the lower baffle and relocated the top baffle to just below the condenser and it seemed to work better.

Pat
I don't know about that metal piece they wired to your condenser. In theory it should work and push the air across the condenser. Up to you but I would lean toward a more permanent baffle if possible. I know that's not what you want to hear at this point of the project and it should go back in if you don't have a baffle near the condenser.
Wow they did install insulation back there for me. I have so many Dometic installations manuals I can now have a book . Some differences I noticed I have a fan under the about the middle Dometic installed which now I can turn on in the heat . Also I have a larger Dometic fan in the cavity to help push out the heat which I also can control . They show if I had the room to put just above my 45 baffle . I don't have the room so I moved it up in cavity . Reace wanted me to put back the metal on back . In some of the roof instalations the 45 is what I need with the space back there .in my previous Dometics they were right almost at back with the recommended 1 in max clearance . Of course that was straight sides . This is a different animal curved . I think being able to help move that hot air out to the roof should help a lot . I think with the piece Reace put back there which he wants back and the cavity now gives the frig thicker walls . I also will do the snip the tip . I also remember the older Dometics were totally insulated . I remember Reace saying the baffle didn't help . I think some more getting ready to reinstall and keep my fingers crossed . I will update with more pictures . Almost done (if I need to pull again I will ) Pat
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:44 PM   #158
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Just being able to run the fans when needed is going to help a lot.
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:25 PM   #159
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Dometic RM8551 insufficent cooling

Thanks Tom . More pics Pat
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Old 07-07-2015, 10:27 PM   #160
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Thanks Tom . More pics Pat
that fan i got is high quality . Ball bearings and I saw it in Oliver trailers . Look for my build pics coming in Friday thread. Pat
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