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Old 10-03-2013, 11:21 AM   #51
ksb
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re the defective valves ~2009....I called Thetford today, the rep stated there are no defective valves (?)
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:25 AM   #52
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re the defective valves ~2009....I called Thetford today, the rep stated there are no defective valves (?)
Here is the post I found on rv.net...that is my only source of information on this:

RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Thetford toiled valve leak
Posted By: RandK-M on 06/01/10 02:31pm

Discovered a leak on the toilet water valve over the weekend while camping. I have a new Jayco 17Z and there was an intermittent leak on the Thetford Aqua magic V toilet. I called Thetford to verify the part number since it would be easier and cost less in gas to replace the valve myself, rather than taking it to the dealer under warranty.

Thetford said they had a batch of bad valves and they would send me a new one at no charge. Apparently, the Aqua Magic V and several other newer models use this valve and it has a built in vacuum breaker. Some of them develop leaks out of the vacuum breaker, but they have since corrected the manufacturing problem.

I just thought I'd post it here in case anyone else has an issue. The valve part number in question is 31705. They actually call it a water module assembly.

Ray
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Old 10-04-2013, 02:04 PM   #53
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Drained the water heater tank today.
This is my anode after five years ( original to the trailer ). Got a ways to go yet. I think it's the soft water and that we only use the heater for maybe an hour a day ( if that ) when camping.
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:04 PM   #54
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Regarding the winterizing methods that bypass the stock water pump, I recently had to pull my pump because it crapped out. I found that, even though I had drained the system via the low point drain, the pump had about 1/2 cup of water sitting in it. I wonder if this might be a concern for the pump once it freezes solid? I even wonder if that's why my pump failed, from damage done last winter. I'll never know, but I can see the case for including the pump in the winterizing process. Fortunately, mine is still under warranty and it looks like the company (Arterra) is going to make good.
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:25 PM   #55
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Instructions for winterizing include running the pump for 10 seconds after you've emptied the fresh water tank and drained and bypassed the water heater.
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Old 10-05-2013, 03:34 PM   #56
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Ah yes, now I remember that!
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:30 PM   #57
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Okay, so being the good little girl I am, I followed Tammy's revised instructions as posted here to the letter - after doing my usual low point drain thing:-) I drained the hot water tank, opened all the faucets and toilet valve, ran the pump for 30 seconds, then did the compressed air thing. And....... not a drop ran out. Nada. I love the low point drain :-)
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:07 PM   #58
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Okay, so being the good little girl I am, I followed Tammy's revised instructions as posted here to the letter - after doing my usual low point drain thing:-) I drained the hot water tank, opened all the faucets and toilet valve, ran the pump for 30 seconds, then did the compressed air thing. And....... not a drop ran out. Nada. I love the low point drain :-)
Christine
Christine,
Did you just do the low point drain on your (our) 2008 5.0 also?
Earlier this week, in anticipation of a freeze here in NM, we drained all the tanks and the hot water heater and opened the low point drain and ran the pump till nothing else came out and then put antifreeze down the drains.
Fran & Dave
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:21 PM   #59
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Make sure you open taps if you use the low-point drain method.
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:42 PM   #60
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Yes, you have to open the taps and toilet valve (and outside shower) or nothing comes out the low point drain. Fran, we only did the low point drain on the 2008 and followed the procedure you did with anti freeze.
We had sub zero temps with no effect.
Christine
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