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Old 06-15-2023, 04:53 PM   #1
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MPPT install

I am in the early stages of installing a Victron 100/30 mppt smart solar charge controller and a Victron smart shunt and I have a couple of questions for the mind trust in this group.
1. I have covered the solar panels (2 190 watts) and I am still reading 12.16 volts (with a fluke multi meter) where I have disconnected the wires at the go power controller. I’m not sure where that voltage is coming from unless maybe enough photons are sneaking through to give me a voltage reading but not enough to supply any amps? I figured I had better check with y’all before I screwed something up.
2. ETI ran 10 AWG from the panels to the go power controller and a much smaller gauge from the controller to the battery. I was thinking of continuing the run of 10 gauge from the Victron controller to the batteries or should I increase the wire size to 8? The run is just under 4’.
3. Do I need to install a fuse between the new controller and the battery? If so what size and type fuse do I need?
4. The Victron shunt looks pretty straight forward but is there anything I should be aware of?
OK that was more than a couple of questions but I appreciate your input.
Ed
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Old 06-16-2023, 12:19 PM   #2
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When I installed my panels to a Victron i followed what were the generally accepted practices at the time. That included fuses on both sides of the Victron, kill switches at the same place and strain release on wires leading into the Victron. I believe I used 8 gauge, but may have since upgraded that.
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Old 06-17-2023, 04:01 PM   #3
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Thanks Paul for your reply.

Rummaging around with the search engine I found TDF Texas outstanding wiring diagrams. I’m essentially going to replicate his installation using 6AWG from the Victron controller to the battery and 30 amp mega fuses before the solar disconnect and after the charge controller. One question I have is the fuse size. I have 2 190 watt factory installed panels wired in parallel (I think). Are the 30 amp fuses large enough for this setup? My solar disconnect is essentially a 40 amp breaker. Can I do away with the first 30 amp fuse? Thanks for any insight y’all have.

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Old 06-23-2023, 04:09 PM   #4
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Smile

I finished my installing my Victron 100 /30 solar charge controller toda along with a solar disconnect, 2 30 amp fuses and a Victron 712 battery monitor. I used ferrels and heat shrink even on some wires/cables I wasn’t working on. I got some cool new tools out of this project.
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Old 06-23-2023, 04:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edlynnrich View Post
I
...
I got some cool new tools out of this project.

Pay attention guys. New tools are the second most rewarding aspect of a good project, just after the project satisfaction itself.
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Old 06-24-2023, 10:25 AM   #6
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I look for projects that require new tools!

Anybody have suggestion where I would need a 3D printer? :
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Old 06-24-2023, 04:09 PM   #7
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... I found TDF Texas outstanding wiring diagrams.
Would you please share this with me? Is it on this forum? (I did search for that string and it produced a lot that wasn't THAT.) Thank you.
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Old 06-24-2023, 05:08 PM   #8
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Try typing wiring diagrams in the search box at the top of the page. The first hit should take you to TDF-Texas post. If not here’s where it is: Escape tech>problem solving >owners helping each other>electrical wiring diagrams. 2/4/2021 I hope this helps.
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Old 06-24-2023, 05:13 PM   #9
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I just noticed it is a sticky in the problem solving category. 2nd one down.
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Old 06-24-2023, 05:32 PM   #10
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Excellent. Thank you.

I also now see where my search went wrong.
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Old 06-24-2023, 05:40 PM   #11
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Thumbs up

Glad to help
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Old 06-28-2023, 10:27 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edlynnrich View Post
1. I have covered the solar panels (2 190 watts) and I am still reading 12.16 volts (with a fluke multi meter) where I have disconnected the wires at the go power controller. I’m not sure where that voltage is coming from unless maybe enough photons are sneaking through to give me a voltage reading but not enough to supply any amps? I figured I had better check with y’all before I screwed something up. .
Ed
It’s hard to fully screen the panels so there will always be some residual voltage, but there’s no power available. One reason for installing the shutoff is you no longer have to worry.

Made the same measurement of voltage, but the available current is tiny.
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Old 06-28-2023, 02:55 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by edlynnrich View Post
I finished my installing my Victron 100 /30 solar charge controller toda along with a solar disconnect, 2 30 amp fuses and a Victron 712 battery monitor. I used ferrels and heat shrink even on some wires/cables I wasn’t working on. I got some cool new tools out of this project.
Very nice. I finished the same type of upgrade last month, the Victron 100/30 controller and a solar disconnect switch. I just wonder why a disconnect switch isn't installed at the factory? I had already installed the Victron DC-DC and shunt last summer and loved both of them. I kept my GoPower inverter and had to install a remote on/off switch as that switch was on the GoPower controller. I just installed a small vent cover over the hole where the GoPower controller was mounted. Anyone need a GoPower controller? I doubt there is much demand for this older technology. Oh...and I'm now charging my 270a lithium up to 14.4 volts with a 170w panel on the roof! Amazing how much better the Victron 100/30 over the GoPower (in AGM mode) at charging the lithium battery.
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Old 06-28-2023, 06:02 PM   #14
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Thanks lostskier. I kept the controller in order to turn the inverter on and off. I also kept the external solar charge port connected to the Go Power controller. I doubt I’ll ever use it but you never know.
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Old 06-29-2023, 09:09 AM   #15
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If you ever get tired of bending over to switch the inverter off & on, there is a remote that can be mounted at a normal level...
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Old 06-29-2023, 09:56 AM   #16
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Good idea Jon. Thanks for the link.
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