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Old 11-06-2017, 12:44 AM   #1
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not clearing the city water check valve

There are a few threads on this forum that say we should be winterizing the city water check valve. If winterizing via the winterizing T-valve or by putting RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank, supposedly we should be pressing the button that is behind the debris screen to drain out any residual water. I suspect this isn't actually required though, and I would like other opinions to see if I am missing something.

This thread shows the internal workings of the check valve. From the design, I do not believe that any water resides in the check valve itself:

Repairing the city water check valve

Attached is a picture of what my city water intake housing and pipes look like from inside my 17b. There is a short section of vertical pipe followed by another short section of horizontal pipe which then connects to the main water line. When the check valve button is pressed, there should be some water that would come out from the short vertical section.

I think if one was to pump antifreeze into the pipes, then antifreeze should reach all parts of those short sections of pipe and mix with the small amount of water there through diffusion. Since the city water specific pipe is quite short compared to the rest of the pipe in the water system, any water in the city water section shouldn't dilute the antifreeze too much in the remaining water system.

Can anyone think of a good reason why this might not be the case?

I think a similar condition applies when sanitizing the water system. I did my first sanitation and winterization a few days ago and cleared the check valve for both, but next time I'll skip this step if it's not required.
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Old 11-06-2017, 01:49 AM   #2
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I thought I was just supposed to remove the screen and push on the valve to let the water out.i didn't put any antifreeze in it.
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Old 11-06-2017, 02:31 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Fox hunt View Post
I thought I was just supposed to remove the screen and push on the valve to let the water out.i didn't put any antifreeze in it.
If you push on the valve to let the water out, you shouldn't need to also add antifreeze. My suspicion though is that the valve never needs to be pushed, under any type of winterization method.
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:19 AM   #4
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I think if one was to pump antifreeze into the pipes, then antifreeze should reach all parts of those short sections of pipe and mix with the small amount of water there through diffusion. Since the city water specific pipe is quite short compared to the rest of the pipe in the water system, any water in the city water section shouldn't dilute the antifreeze too much in the remaining water system.

I am guessing this is what happens as well. We used the T-valve wintering method and when I cleared the city water valve all that came out was antifreeze and we plan to skip that step next time.
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:40 AM   #5
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Humm, maybe this is... An ounce of prevention prevents a pound of cure"? It's not like it takes hours to do. So what is gained by NOT doing it?
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:15 AM   #6
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It all depends on which method of winterization you are using. If a pump, then yes you are putting antifreeze in that hose. If you are using the E-Z-winterization method, then there is still water in that hose/valve that can freeze, so you release the pressure and any water escapes from the valve. You can then turn the 3 way valve and start your winterization with the E-Z method.
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:51 AM   #7
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Hi: All... I blow the water lines down with my air pig, but I also release any trapped water in the "City water" back flow valve. It only takes a minute to prevent a headache!!! Alf
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:17 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
It all depends on which method of winterization you are using. If a pump, then yes you are putting antifreeze in that hose. If you are using the E-Z-winterization method, then there is still water in that hose/valve that can freeze, so you release the pressure and any water escapes from the valve. You can then turn the 3 way valve and start your winterization with the E-Z method.
The city water pipe connects to the rest of the trailer plumbing at a point after the pump, so antifreeze should reach that junction in both the E-Z and fresh water tank winterization methods.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:22 AM   #9
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Hi: All... I blow the water lines down with my air pig, but I also release any trapped water in the "City water" back flow valve. It only takes a minute to prevent a headache!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
If any water comes out of that valve after winterizing with pressurized air, then I would definitely do it! I'm surprised this would happen though since I thought pressurized air was supposed to go in through the city water connection and clear downstream pipes of water. I suppose if any residual water remained in the pipes, it could drip back to this point and accumulate there.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:26 AM   #10
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Quote:
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Hi: All... I blow the water lines down with my air pig, but I also release any trapped water in the "City water" back flow valve. It only takes a minute to prevent a headache!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
How do you attach it?
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