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Old 06-03-2016, 12:51 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craiginpetaluma View Post
This is what a Trimetric 2030 can do for you, if so wish to know.

Know what your electric draws are, these measurements are in Amps

Refer on 12 volt 16
water pump 3
heater fan 1.5
maxx fan/high 1.5 low .2
bath fan 1.5
LED lights
center .5
captains .2
Trimetric .1
CO/smoke/propane .2

It tells you: Battery Voltage and percentage to full. How many negative amps hrs you're currently down, what your current combined draw at any time , What your current amps coming from your panels or generator. It will tell the last time the batteries were fully charged. And about 1000 different measurements that I don't know a thing about.
You always know 100% what is really going on, no guessing.
Holy cow Craig - this is awesome info. Thanks for posting. I have made a note of it, for future reference.

We like to boondock long periods, sometimes around big trees.

we'll have roof solar, dual 6V, plus a panel on a long thick wire, with ETI adding a 'tap' to get our portable panel into the system....

so we'll enjoy the Trimetric 2030 and what it'll tell us.

Plus I can use it to teach our daughter "Little Camper" about electricity and power and energy usage.
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Old 06-03-2016, 01:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craiginpetaluma View Post
This is what a Trimetric 2030 can do for you, if so wish to know.

Know what your electric draws are, these measurements are in Amps

Refer on 12 volt 16
water pump 3
heater fan 1.5
maxx fan/high 1.5 low .2
bath fan 1.5
LED lights
center .5
captains .2
Trimetric .1
CO/smoke/propane .2

It tells you: Battery Voltage and percentage to full. How many negative amps hrs you're currently down, what your current combined draw at any time , What your current amps coming from your panels or generator. It will tell the last time the batteries were fully charged. And about 1000 different measurements that I don't know a thing about.
You always know 100% what is really going on, no guessing.
Thanks Craig . That is what AM solar was telling me . He wanted me to get the Trimetic before anything else . I showed Linda your information so looks like I can now invest in this for the trailer . If it is OK I still will need direction to by pass the shut down switch . I also have the EMS surge if that information is needed . Pat
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Old 06-03-2016, 04:41 PM   #23
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Killed power to the TM-2030, a few of the settings went back to default, I didn't write which ones they were but none that I could tell had to do with using the unit as just a monitor, they were things like % to overcharge. Only took a couple minutes to go through, hardest part is looking up how to change them as I don't do it often.

So yes, you do lose some settings. Need to have the manuals with you and have your settings written down.

Pat, Just connect the conductor from B1 to the + battery terminal, make sure you put a 1 amp fuse in the line. If you want it on the disconnect switch just terminate the lead there.

Here's the link to the install manual. http://www.bogartengineering.com/wp-...s1-27-2016.pdf

Here's my +DC lead with the inline fuse. The other is the shunt, which is more of a hassle to install then the rest of the job.
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Old 06-03-2016, 05:07 PM   #24
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Killed power to the TM-2030, a few of the settings went back to default, I didn't write which ones they were but none that I could tell had to do with using the unit as just a monitor, they were things like % to overcharge. Only took a couple minutes to go through, hardest part is looking up how to change them as I don't do it often.

So yes, you do lose some settings. Need to have the manuals with you and have your settings written down.

Pat, Just connect the conductor from B1 to the + battery terminal, make sure you put a 1 amp fuse in the line. If you want it on the disconnect switch just terminate the lead there.

Here's the link to the install manual. http://www.bogartengineering.com/wp-...s1-27-2016.pdf

Here's my +DC lead with the inline fuse. The other is the shunt, which is more of a hassle to install then the rest of the job.
Do you have the dual batteries ? The batteries are also in the front storage box. Pat
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Old 06-03-2016, 06:09 PM   #25
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Mine's the fifth wheel with the batteries (6v) under the rear dinette bench. I'm not familiar with the 19's layout. The shunt should be close to the batteries.

All components connect their negative lead to one side of the shunt, the other side connects directly to the battery. If you have an inverter that comes into play too as it also needs to be routed to the shunt, cable size starts to play a part.
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Old 06-03-2016, 06:50 PM   #26
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Do you have the dual batteries ? The batteries are also in the front storage box. Pat
Single versus dual doesn't matter, but if the connection of the negative battery terminal to the frame is located under the storage box, you would need to either
  • put the shunt in the storage box (the straightforward solution), or
  • find a place inside for the shunt and re-route all ground cables (main and separate cable for the inverter if you have one) to there.
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Old 06-03-2016, 07:38 PM   #27
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I agree with Bob and Brian, routing the negative to be installed to the shunt is the most difficult part. If your batteries, solar controller, inverter, and WFCO are in different locations things get more complicated.
With the U=shaped dinette on the 21 all those components are in the same location, so installation is somewhat simple and straight forward.
I'm not to familiar with the layout on the 19, but seems they are spread out.
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Old 06-03-2016, 07:56 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Losangeles View Post
Holy cow Craig - this is awesome info. Thanks for posting. I have made a note of it, for future reference.

We like to boondock long periods, sometimes around big trees.

we'll have roof solar, dual 6V, plus a panel on a long thick wire, with ETI adding a 'tap' to get our portable panel into the system....

so we'll enjoy the Trimetric 2030 and what it'll tell us.

Plus I can use it to teach our daughter "Little Camper" about electricity and power and energy usage.
The 2030 is a fun/great learning tool, I tinker with it a lot. If you can teach your kids to " turn off the lights" That alone will be worth the price.
I've learned that when I'm camping in full sun I can run the refer on 12 volt( 16 amps) during the peak sun hours ( 10am-4pm) and not deplete my batteries much. It's a little thing but I save some propane. I also can run the refer on 12 volt when traveling even with partly cloudy skies, with minimal battery drain.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:47 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Mine's the fifth wheel with the batteries (6v) under the rear dinette bench. I'm not familiar with the 19's layout. The shunt should be close to the batteries.

All components connect their negative lead to one side of the shunt, the other side connects directly to the battery. If you have an inverter that comes into play too as it also needs to be routed to the shunt, cable size starts to play a part.
No inverter . Have a small portable I have used maybe 3 times . It is 200-300 . I know it will run TV . But it drains batteries . The shunt could go in front box where my 2 batteries are . No u-dinette . The WFCO is under driver dinette along with shut off which is between batteries and WFCO . Pat
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:16 AM   #30
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Another option for locating the shunt that's worked fine for me for almost two years.
Shunt.JPG
Don
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