where to terminate battery monitor wires? - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community
Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×

Go Back   Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Me | General Topics > Shopping Escape
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-03-2016, 12:51 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: no fixed address, California
Trailer: 2017-21' Escape (sold) Casita 17' (sold)
Posts: 1,343
Quote:
Originally Posted by craiginpetaluma View Post
This is what a Trimetric 2030 can do for you, if so wish to know.

Know what your electric draws are, these measurements are in Amps

Refer on 12 volt 16
water pump 3
heater fan 1.5
maxx fan/high 1.5 low .2
bath fan 1.5
LED lights
center .5
captains .2
Trimetric .1
CO/smoke/propane .2

It tells you: Battery Voltage and percentage to full. How many negative amps hrs you're currently down, what your current combined draw at any time , What your current amps coming from your panels or generator. It will tell the last time the batteries were fully charged. And about 1000 different measurements that I don't know a thing about.
You always know 100% what is really going on, no guessing.
Holy cow Craig - this is awesome info. Thanks for posting. I have made a note of it, for future reference.

We like to boondock long periods, sometimes around big trees.

we'll have roof solar, dual 6V, plus a panel on a long thick wire, with ETI adding a 'tap' to get our portable panel into the system....

so we'll enjoy the Trimetric 2030 and what it'll tell us.

Plus I can use it to teach our daughter "Little Camper" about electricity and power and energy usage.
__________________

Losangeles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2016, 01:29 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,028
Quote:
Originally Posted by craiginpetaluma View Post
This is what a Trimetric 2030 can do for you, if so wish to know.

Know what your electric draws are, these measurements are in Amps

Refer on 12 volt 16
water pump 3
heater fan 1.5
maxx fan/high 1.5 low .2
bath fan 1.5
LED lights
center .5
captains .2
Trimetric .1
CO/smoke/propane .2

It tells you: Battery Voltage and percentage to full. How many negative amps hrs you're currently down, what your current combined draw at any time , What your current amps coming from your panels or generator. It will tell the last time the batteries were fully charged. And about 1000 different measurements that I don't know a thing about.
You always know 100% what is really going on, no guessing.
Thanks Craig . That is what AM solar was telling me . He wanted me to get the Trimetic before anything else . I showed Linda your information so looks like I can now invest in this for the trailer . If it is OK I still will need direction to by pass the shut down switch . I also have the EMS surge if that information is needed . Pat
__________________

Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2016, 04:41 PM   #23
Site Team
 
padlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,116
Killed power to the TM-2030, a few of the settings went back to default, I didn't write which ones they were but none that I could tell had to do with using the unit as just a monitor, they were things like % to overcharge. Only took a couple minutes to go through, hardest part is looking up how to change them as I don't do it often.

So yes, you do lose some settings. Need to have the manuals with you and have your settings written down.

Pat, Just connect the conductor from B1 to the + battery terminal, make sure you put a 1 amp fuse in the line. If you want it on the disconnect switch just terminate the lead there.

Here's the link to the install manual. http://www.bogartengineering.com/wp-...s1-27-2016.pdf

Here's my +DC lead with the inline fuse. The other is the shunt, which is more of a hassle to install then the rest of the job.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMAG0333 (576 x 960).jpg (157.8 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg IMAG0334 (960 x 576).jpg (136.5 KB, 19 views)
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
padlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2016, 05:07 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,028
Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Killed power to the TM-2030, a few of the settings went back to default, I didn't write which ones they were but none that I could tell had to do with using the unit as just a monitor, they were things like % to overcharge. Only took a couple minutes to go through, hardest part is looking up how to change them as I don't do it often.

So yes, you do lose some settings. Need to have the manuals with you and have your settings written down.

Pat, Just connect the conductor from B1 to the + battery terminal, make sure you put a 1 amp fuse in the line. If you want it on the disconnect switch just terminate the lead there.

Here's the link to the install manual. http://www.bogartengineering.com/wp-...s1-27-2016.pdf

Here's my +DC lead with the inline fuse. The other is the shunt, which is more of a hassle to install then the rest of the job.
Do you have the dual batteries ? The batteries are also in the front storage box. Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2016, 06:09 PM   #25
Site Team
 
padlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,116
Mine's the fifth wheel with the batteries (6v) under the rear dinette bench. I'm not familiar with the 19's layout. The shunt should be close to the batteries.

All components connect their negative lead to one side of the shunt, the other side connects directly to the battery. If you have an inverter that comes into play too as it also needs to be routed to the shunt, cable size starts to play a part.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
padlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2016, 06:50 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 13,573
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Do you have the dual batteries ? The batteries are also in the front storage box. Pat
Single versus dual doesn't matter, but if the connection of the negative battery terminal to the frame is located under the storage box, you would need to either
  • put the shunt in the storage box (the straightforward solution), or
  • find a place inside for the shunt and re-route all ground cables (main and separate cable for the inverter if you have one) to there.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2016, 07:38 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
craiginpetaluma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: petaluma, California
Trailer: 2015 Escape 21 2002 Tundra 4x4 V-8 tow package.
Posts: 163
I agree with Bob and Brian, routing the negative to be installed to the shunt is the most difficult part. If your batteries, solar controller, inverter, and WFCO are in different locations things get more complicated.
With the U=shaped dinette on the 21 all those components are in the same location, so installation is somewhat simple and straight forward.
I'm not to familiar with the layout on the 19, but seems they are spread out.
craiginpetaluma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2016, 07:56 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
craiginpetaluma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: petaluma, California
Trailer: 2015 Escape 21 2002 Tundra 4x4 V-8 tow package.
Posts: 163
Quote:
Originally Posted by Losangeles View Post
Holy cow Craig - this is awesome info. Thanks for posting. I have made a note of it, for future reference.

We like to boondock long periods, sometimes around big trees.

we'll have roof solar, dual 6V, plus a panel on a long thick wire, with ETI adding a 'tap' to get our portable panel into the system....

so we'll enjoy the Trimetric 2030 and what it'll tell us.

Plus I can use it to teach our daughter "Little Camper" about electricity and power and energy usage.
The 2030 is a fun/great learning tool, I tinker with it a lot. If you can teach your kids to " turn off the lights" That alone will be worth the price.
I've learned that when I'm camping in full sun I can run the refer on 12 volt( 16 amps) during the peak sun hours ( 10am-4pm) and not deplete my batteries much. It's a little thing but I save some propane. I also can run the refer on 12 volt when traveling even with partly cloudy skies, with minimal battery drain.
craiginpetaluma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-03-2016, 09:47 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,028
Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Mine's the fifth wheel with the batteries (6v) under the rear dinette bench. I'm not familiar with the 19's layout. The shunt should be close to the batteries.

All components connect their negative lead to one side of the shunt, the other side connects directly to the battery. If you have an inverter that comes into play too as it also needs to be routed to the shunt, cable size starts to play a part.
No inverter . Have a small portable I have used maybe 3 times . It is 200-300 . I know it will run TV . But it drains batteries . The shunt could go in front box where my 2 batteries are . No u-dinette . The WFCO is under driver dinette along with shut off which is between batteries and WFCO . Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2016, 08:16 AM   #30
Senior Member
 
DonF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Corinth, Mississippi
Trailer: 2014 19' Escape - 2018 JGC Overland
Posts: 177
Another option for locating the shunt that's worked fine for me for almost two years.
Shunt.JPG
Don
DonF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2016, 08:49 AM   #31
Site Team
 
padlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,116
That's a great spot Don, did you caulk or Velcro it in place?
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
padlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2016, 10:54 AM   #32
Senior Member
 
DonF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Corinth, Mississippi
Trailer: 2014 19' Escape - 2018 JGC Overland
Posts: 177
I used VHB tape.
DonF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2016, 03:51 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Greg A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,494
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonF View Post
I used VHB tape.
I like your solution, can't get the shunt any closer to the batteries then that. Off topic a bit, I did not get the box, but have the two 6v and had never seen a pic of them installed in the box. Is there a cover that goes over the top of that battery setup or is that the way they are in the box?
Greg A is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2016, 05:00 PM   #34
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,028
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg A View Post
I like your solution, can't get the shunt any closer to the batteries then that. Off topic a bit, I did not get the box, but have the two 6v and had never seen a pic of them installed in the box. Is there a cover that goes over the top of that battery setup or is that the way they are in the box?
Hi Gregg ,yes there is a piece of ply for the top . Made mine a little better so it will stay there unless I remove it . Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2016, 05:03 PM   #35
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: paso robles, California
Trailer: ex Casita/ 2016 Escape 21 '16 TRD 4x4
Posts: 121
I had a 2030 in my Casita and I loved it. My new 21 has already been built and the original requester didn't have the cable added (everything else but), so I will have to run the wires myself. I know that the 21 has the batteries under the bench seats, and I would like to put it above the fridge. How hard would this be? Would I have to remove the fridge to do it? (That would allow me to insulate the space around the fridge and run the wires, but I would rather skip this step.)
Jerry 2016 21
July 6 p.u.
jerryandmaria is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2016, 09:53 PM   #36
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: no fixed address, California
Trailer: 2017-21' Escape (sold) Casita 17' (sold)
Posts: 1,343
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryandmaria View Post
I had a 2030 in my Casita and I loved it. My new 21 has already been built and the original requester didn't have the cable added (everything else but), so I will have to run the wires myself. I know that the 21 has the batteries under the bench seats, and I would like to put it above the fridge. How hard would this be? Would I have to remove the fridge to do it? (That would allow me to insulate the space around the fridge and run the wires, but I would rather skip this step.)
Jerry 2016 21
July 6 p.u.
good question. I wonder......

did you ever resolve this?

good luck.
Losangeles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2016, 05:31 AM   #37
Site Team
 
padlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,116
From working on my 5.0, which should be the same, I believe you will have to pull the fridge.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
padlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2016, 04:40 PM   #38
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: no fixed address, California
Trailer: 2017-21' Escape (sold) Casita 17' (sold)
Posts: 1,343
Quote:
Originally Posted by craiginpetaluma View Post
I agree with Bob and Brian, routing the negative to be installed to the shunt is the most difficult part. If your batteries, solar controller, inverter, and WFCO are in different locations things get more complicated.
With the U=shaped dinette on the 21 all those components are in the same location, so installation is somewhat simple and straight forward.
I'm not to familiar with the layout on the 19, but seems they are spread out.
On our (yet to be built) 2017 we are getting dual 6v batteries, dual roof solar, and also an all plug 120v inverter.

No u shaped dinette.

I'm assuming all (most?) of this stuff will be in the passenger curb dinette bench?

...and if yes.... how hard will it be for a bonehead such as myself to install the 500 Amp/50mV shunt?



(the Trimetric website suggested that with our setup that shunt is more suitable, and won't overheat when running bigger loads on the inverter)

and... i'm going to have ETI pre-wire the 4 lead wire in during build, from near battery box to the cabinet above the wardrobe. (not getting microwave)

thanks
Losangeles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2016, 05:29 PM   #39
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 13,573
Quote:
Originally Posted by Losangeles View Post
On our (yet to be built) 2017 we are getting dual 6v batteries, dual roof solar, and also an all plug 120v inverter.

No u shaped dinette.

[B]I'm assuming all (most?) of this stuff will be in the passenger curb dinette bench?
My understanding is that with a current (2016 or 2017, first or second generation) Escape 19' the battery or batteries are on the tongue (in the optional storage box is so equipped, individual boxes otherwise). The inverter is presumably near the converter and distribution panel (which is in the street side dinette seat).

Some 19's do have the battery or batteries in the passenger side dinette bench, either as original equipment (but they're no longer built that way), or as a modification.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Losangeles View Post
.... how hard will it be for a bonehead such as myself to install the 500 Amp/50mV shunt? )
I find it difficult to accurately predict how hard will it be for a bonehead such as myself to install or fix stuff. Anyone else... even harder to say.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2016, 06:02 PM   #40
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: no fixed address, California
Trailer: 2017-21' Escape (sold) Casita 17' (sold)
Posts: 1,343
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
My understanding is that with a current (2016 or 2017, first or second generation) Escape 19' the battery or batteries are on the tongue (in the optional storage box is so equipped, individual boxes otherwise). The inverter is presumably near the converter and distribution panel (which is in the street side dinette seat).

Some 19's do have the battery or batteries in the passenger side dinette bench, either as original equipment (but they're no longer built that way), or as a modification.


I find it difficult to accurately predict how hard will it be for a bonehead such as myself to install or fix stuff. Anyone else... even harder to say.
sorry - i forgot to mention.... 21' (not a 19')
__________________

Losangeles is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Escape Trailer Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:12 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2012 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.
×