First indicators of our 5.0, "in the offing" - Page 2

Jim Bennett · 08-16-2010, 11:57 AM

Especially with the extra insulation and dual glazed windows, the smaller A/C units will be more than adequate in the warmest climates. We have not put any A/C on yet, but with our awning out and the windows closed, our trailer does not warm up anywhere near what the temps outside are.

Texscapees · 08-16-2010, 12:13 PM

I'm confused, why would a 9000 unit be more quiet? Would the noise from the smaller condenser &/or fan be significantly more quiet? Also, why would it cycle less often? I'd think the cycles are determined by the temp that the thermometer is set at regardless of the size of the A/C unit. If anything, I'd think that the 13500 would maybe cool things quicker and cycle off faster.

I can see where a smaller A/C unit be less expensive and a little less weight. I can also see where it'd be a benefit for those that use generators and prefer the smaller gen pwr requirement to run the A/C.

Jim Bennett · 08-16-2010, 01:31 PM

The same rules for heating and air conditioning that apply to homes would also apply to RV's.

Basically, the most efficient unit would run 24/7 on the most extreme day of the year, yet keep the temperature where you wish it.

If the unit used a smaller fan, there would be less noise.

The cycling is where inefficiencies come in, and this was very true in this neck of the woods with heating 20-40 years ago, where they just put in BIG units and new they would do the trick.

While a larger A/C unit would cool things quicker, it would cycle in and out more often. A smaller unit may not be as quick to drop the temps, but it would not take that long, and would easily maintain the temp. With the good insulation, I would not hesitate to use the 9,000 BTU. Actually, one that has received quite good reviews is the Coleman Polar Cub 9201.

Hokie Escape · 08-16-2010, 01:55 PM

Yep, Jim is right. And it's that cycling on and off that is so annoying to my wife in particular. So, the smaller fan, and less frequent cycling would be a BIG plus to her. I wish it had a fan "on" switch (like your heat pump at home), that way the only cycling would be the compressor, and not the compressor and the high velocity fan too! The fact that you could drive it with a smaller generator (whenever I get to that point) would be a plus too. I keep scheming as to a way to "trade my 13,500 in" and get a smaller unit. We did not get our unit from Rease and Tammy, but bought it at Camping World locally.

Texscapees · 08-16-2010, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HokieEscape

I wish it had a fan "on" switch (like your heat pump at home), that way the only cycling would be the compressor, and not the compressor and the high velocity fan too!

We have the low profile Carrier 13500. There is a "fan on" (vent) setting for when you want the fan's continuous air flow for circulation purposes but no a/c. When set to a/c, the fan actually does stay on all the time and only the compressor cycles on/off. I can see where it'd be annoying if the fan cycled on and off along with the condenser. I'm glad ours doesn't do that.

However, I do wish our unit had a high/med/low fan speed setting where the low was half the speed of the current low & the med was the speed of the current low.

escape artist · 08-16-2010, 07:57 PM

Hi: All...I believe our 5.0 was the first to have roof mounted A/C. The unit is a 579 Brisk air by Dometic with a nominal btu/hr rate of 7180. It weighs 75# installed and takes a 2.5-4 K gen. to run it. We used it a lot in Indiana and it didn't take long for the water to start running off the roof. Glad we had it. We can run fan only and also fan+ compressor so there is a continous noise with the addition of the compressor cycles but we prefer the whisper of the MaxxFan. We'd love a below low speed but can't have it all ways tho!!! The only thing I like about the new units Reece is using is the lower profile above the roof line. Then again I haven't run into any low flying UFO's.(Unidentified Flinging Objects) Alf p.s. it's slightly bigger than I thought!!! Now I have it open I guess I'll clean the filter

escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

Hokie Escape · 08-16-2010, 08:02 PM

Wow Alf, your's is only a 7100 BTU unit, and still it's plenty! Yep, sure wished had a smaller unit. Those Polar Cubs that Jim referred to are quite sleek.

Garand · 08-16-2010, 09:38 PM

We we got our first pictures of our new 5.0 today! I won't bother posting them as they look like every other "empty shell" picture you've already seen posted. The biggest difference is, this one is ours a-building!

I talked with Reace today and discovered the AC comes in one flavor only...low-profile 11-12 K btu (I forget which). As we will only use it to cool the trailer before bed and then switch to fans (if we are lucky enough to have electricity in the first place), I doubt the cycling will bother us.

Dave

thoer · 08-16-2010, 09:48 PM

Dave - congratulations! It is an exciting day when you get those first pictures, knowing that you are going to be in that space soon!

Texscapees · 08-16-2010, 09:50 PM

Dave - Congrats on the hatching. How exciting!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garand

We didn't order the extra insulation as we seldom do any real cold weather camping.

Keep in mind that the extra insulation is just as helpful at keeping it cooler inside when it's hot outside as it is the other way around. It been about 10 years since I was in the Memphis area during the summer but I remember it being pretty hot & humid.

Our 19 has the extra insulation & tinted dual pane windows which we've benefited from while camping when it's hot (TX summer camping) as well as when it cold (MT late fall camping). It makes it easier to cool down or heat up when desired & maintain the desired temp range.

Hokie Escape · 08-17-2010, 04:38 AM

For sure Dave. I'd do the extra insulation and tinted dual paned windows before I'd put any type of AC on the roof. If you can only do one or the other, go for the insulation and windows. Single pane windows will sweat a lot in humid weather and create moisture problems inside, which is eliminated with the dual panes. And like Brad said, it'll keep it cooler inside as well.

escape artist · 08-17-2010, 07:17 AM

Hi: All...You guys are really makin' me feel OLD!!!Double insulation and thermal windows were just a "Twinkle in Reaces eye" when our 5.0 was built. A lot of options have made their way into the standard build, and new ones have come along. Isn't it interesting to watch "The Evolution of Escape".
I must admit I was influenced by Donna D back in 2006 and watched the early years with great interest. Maybe someone should compile a History before it's Ancient...like ME!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

Hokie Escape · 08-17-2010, 11:51 AM

What do you think Alf, if you could double insulate and have double paned tinted glass, would you? Do you get much condensation inside the windows when it's humid? We got alot with the Casita.

Garand · 08-17-2010, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HokieEscape

What do you think Alf, if you could double insulate and have double paned tinted glass, would you? Do you get much condensation inside the windows when it's humid? We got alot with the Casita.

Yeah, would you?...I have one more day to decide before its too late (but I am leaning away from the extra weight and expense)

Dave

gharms · 08-17-2010, 12:47 PM

I definitely would go WITH extra insulation. Beneficial for hot and cold weather!

Texscapees · 08-17-2010, 12:49 PM

I don't think the extra insulation adds much weight but there's no question that it does add more $. Another consideration is that extra insulation is by far the easiest to install now as the trailer is being built - before the cabinets, walls, etc are added. So if you choose not to do it now but later decided that you really did want extra insulation, it'd be much harder & even more $ to install. For that matter, it might not even be possible to get the same comprehensive insulation coverage throughout the trailer.

Hokie Escape · 08-17-2010, 04:13 PM

You can always add the AC later, anywhere. I had Camping World do ours here. Only Escape can do the extra insulation and windows economically at this point.

gbaglo · 08-17-2010, 04:29 PM

If you think you might add AC later, you need to inform Escape so they can build in reinforcements and wire it for AC.

baglo

escape artist · 08-17-2010, 08:35 PM

Hi: All...What do I think

I try not to as it usually gets me in trouble.
In our 3rd. season of ownership we have yet to step in the trailer here in the full sun and not feel its cool 8) inside.
Yes the windows sweat...but then so do I!!! We have the "Black Glass" which helps a lot, and we carry a synthetic chamois in a zip lock bag to wipe them and the shower walls. Cheap solution.
We always use the MaxxFan with the furnace or elec. cube heater which is usually all we need. We did have a cold damp night for our first try at lotdocking and used the furnace for the 1st. time in Virginia of all places. Trouble is some options are best added during the build. We used the A/C more this year than previous yrs. and with retirement and Fla. camping in mind...glad we got it!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

Garand · 08-18-2010, 12:07 PM

Well, part of the decision solved itself. It seems I misunderstood the timing for the full insulation package. Escape needs about a 3 month lead-time to order the double-pane windows, so we opted for the insulation package with single-pane windows. Our Casita (in addition to having rivets) had the carpeted interior and single-pane windows and was all we ever needed...so I suspect the insulated Escape will either perform better or at least as good.

Thanks again for engaging in this great discussion...I learned a lot.

Dave

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