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Old 06-11-2015, 06:55 PM   #31
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Power Jack with Andersen Hitch

Thank you Doug. Looks tight but it does fit if you remove the plug holder.

Went back and forth on various models but in the end I ordered an Atwood Premier Performance Series 4000 with a 5 year warranty. Made in the USA. Found out the Husky is made in China. That's not automatically bad, but I like to support North American made when I can. The only other power Jack I could find that's made in America was the Barker. Nice jack, but the cover yellows after exposure to the sun according to many reviewers, and again no 5 year warranty. The Atwood should be fine, albeit a little noisier than the Husky. Also like the 'robofoot' vs the drop leg, and the permanently lubed ball drive.
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Old 06-29-2015, 07:39 PM   #32
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Installed the Atwood 3000 this afternoon; piece of cake. Three 9/16" bolts and a little wiring (actually I spent about 5 minutes on the mechanical install and 30 minutes splicing and running the wiring under and up into the front storage box). Had to add about 4' of 10 gauge wire but in the end, it was a clean install coming up and through the plastic conduit that holds the positive & negative battery leads. Using a clip for the positive power lead for now. Plenty of clearance with the propane cover. The Robofoot is a nice addition too; makes short work of raising and lowering the unit. And much more quiet than I expected.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Atwood Jack w-propane cover.jpg (95.5 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg Robofoot.jpg (242.5 KB, 24 views)
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:34 PM   #33
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Yeah, its a pretty easy install, Rich. Good to know that the 3000 is quiet too. Only thing I don't like about the RoboFoot is that if the trailer is on ground that slopes up in the front, I can't really retract it enough to level the trailer all the way. I may retrofit it with a drop leg at some point. We'll see how it goes.

I was kind of surprised that you needed to extend the wire, assuming your batteries are in the tongue box. Ours just fit, with about 6" to spare. Maybe the wire supplied with the 3000 is shorter than the 4000?
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Old 06-29-2015, 10:45 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Yeah, its a pretty easy install, Rich. Good to know that the 3000 is quiet too. Only thing I don't like about the RoboFoot is that if the trailer is on ground that slopes up in the front, I can't really retract it enough to level the trailer all the way. I may retrofit it with a drop leg at some point. We'll see how it goes.

I was kind of surprised that you needed to extend the wire, assuming your batteries are in the tongue box. Ours just fit, with about 6" to spare. Maybe the wire supplied with the 3000 is shorter than the 4000?
Well, you just helped me decide whether or not to keep the plastic cone support I'd been using 😉, thanks! Yea, I ran the wire along the 7-pin power cord until I was right under the 12V leads into the storage box. Go figure? Robert, why'd you opt for the 4000?
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:13 AM   #35
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Well, you just helped me decide whether or not to keep the plastic cone support I'd been using 😉, thanks! Yea, I ran the wire along the 7-pin power cord until I was right under the 12V leads into the storage box. Go figure? Robert, why'd you opt for the 4000?
Ah, I see. My wire just ran down the pole to the a frame then along the passenger side of the frame and into a tiny hole I drilled into the storage box next the battery terminals.

Went with the 4000 because I was told it was slightly quieter, and because I was getting conflicting documentation about whether or not the 3000 had a ball drive like the 4000. I think they both do, but the price difference wasn't that much so I got the 4k. Here's the thread on the install:
Atwood Premier 4000 Power Jack Installation
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Old 02-14-2016, 11:39 PM   #36
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I own a 17' casita now with WDH and cranking is easy.

Is a 21' escape with WDH harder to crank? ( effort)

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Old 02-15-2016, 05:20 AM   #37
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All depends on your tow vehicle, I have an Andersen and a manual jack but I do not always use the Andersen unless traveling great distances with a full load.
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Old 02-15-2016, 09:11 AM   #38
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I would say cranking is cranking, the addition of a WDH makes very little difference. My take on cranking is the repetitions, not the force required. I added an Anderson WDH after the fact so have used the crank with and without the WDH, it does not make a difference in the force required or the number of repetitions.
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Old 02-15-2016, 05:00 PM   #39
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We are loving the power jack the more we camp - especially with the Andersen Hitch. Since we jack it up high after hooking up in order to attach the triangle plate, and we also jack it up high to remove the plate when setting up, that's a bit more cranking than other setups. The Power Jack makes it a snap.
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Old 02-15-2016, 05:03 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
We are loving the power jack the more we camp - especially with the Andersen Hitch. Since we jack it up high after hooking up in order to attach the triangle plate, and we also jack it up high to remove the plate when setting up, that's a bit more cranking than other setups.
A lot of people do that with conventional weight-distributing hitches as well, to make it easier to attach the spring bars (with a chain snap-up bracket or whatever gear is used by that particular WD design), so this is not unique to the Andersen "No-Sway" WD. Of course, even with the Andersen you can turn the nuts to loosen before uncoupling and to tighten after coupling, so the the extra cranking is not inherently required by the Andersen design.
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