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Old 02-26-2019, 03:23 PM   #1
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Adding cabinet lighting

Would like to eventually add "cabinet lites" inside the upper glassed doors over the bed of our soon to be built 21. My question is: If I order the standard location for TV coaxial with 12V outlet, would I then be able to wire my 12 volt lites directly to the backside of this outlet and use a remote to control them? Thanks
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Old 02-26-2019, 03:48 PM   #2
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Just a word on controllers.
If it does work out that there is power in the 21 where you want...then mounting one of these led controllers will be easy. It has a remote IR pickup that you can sneak out a hole so the hand remote control can see it and you donít have to look at the controller.
Not a bad price for both units with free shipping...and yes they do work just fine. Here is a picture of my controller all tested and ready to install.

DC12V 24 Keys IR Remote RGB Controller for SMD3528/5050/5730/5630/3014 RGB LED Strip lights Mini Controller-in RGB Controlers from Lights & Lighting on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
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Old 02-26-2019, 04:16 PM   #3
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So with your system I could also connect to 120V with an AC/DC adapter, correct? Also, do I need to be concerned with any appreciable heat build up inside the cabinets?
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Old 02-26-2019, 04:22 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by SFmiguel View Post
Would like to eventually add "cabinet lites" inside the upper glassed doors over the bed of our soon to be built 21. My question is: If I order the standard location for TV coaxial with 12V outlet, would I then be able to wire my 12 volt lites directly to the backside of this outlet and use a remote to control them? Thanks
Difficult to access the back side of that socket with the other electrical box there; just pay ETI to provide a 12V "drop" in that area that you can splice onto. Well worth the $25 or so they charge. Usually about 6 ft of power&ground coiled up for future expansion.
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Old 02-26-2019, 04:32 PM   #5
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Did not know I could have that done. I'll do the same in the cabinets over the dinette to have the same lighting option. Thank you
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Old 02-26-2019, 07:02 PM   #6
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The 12v drops are now $50 and if you have them install the round 12v outlet for the same price, you can remove the assembly and gain access to the 12v power from the front of the cabinet.
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Old 02-26-2019, 07:36 PM   #7
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You are correct sir. I just talked to our sales rep and we're having 2 12V "drops" installed in the over head cabinets, one fore and one aft @ $50 each. Don't really have a need for the outlets, I don't think. While I have your attention: I asked for 2 extra exterior lites, one in the front over the storage box and one in the rear. I thought I had read that these could be connected to an interior switch, but she said no.
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Old 02-26-2019, 08:38 PM   #8
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Each exterior light has it's own switch, the one by the door on the curb side has an interior switch, they used to wire all the exterior to an interior switch in the past, for an additional charge.
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Old 03-02-2019, 01:13 PM   #9
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12 volt drop questions

There doesn't seem to be a lot of information regarding the snaking of wiring after the build. I have a 5.0 on order and planning to install a WeBoost in the area above the microwave or refrigerator.
In a 5.0 (a 21 should be the same) I will need 12 volt power either above the refrigerator or the microwave cabinet. I understand I can have a 12 volt line dropped there, but I am wondering how difficult it would be if I have the 12v drop go into the cabinet above the back wall (dinette area) and snake the wire to the We Boost area. My thought is should I someday want 12v in the dinette area or going into the kitchen area I have a closer 12v source.
I suppose the stove vent would be another source in the kitchen area. I know there might be other and better ways to accomplish this but my main reason for these questions is to get a better understanding of what is involved in accessing power after the build.
Another question, has anyone snaked wires across the ceiling from one side to the other? How else might someone get access from one side to the other? I haven't intentions to do this, just wondering how that might be accomplished.
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Old 03-02-2019, 02:30 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Ronn View Post
There doesn't seem to be a lot of information regarding the snaking of wiring after the build. I have a 5.0 on order and planning to install a WeBoost in the area above the microwave or refrigerator.
In a 5.0 (a 21 should be the same) I will need 12 volt power either above the refrigerator or the microwave cabinet. I understand I can have a 12 volt line dropped there, but I am wondering how difficult it would be if I have the 12v drop go into the cabinet above the back wall (dinette area) and snake the wire to the We Boost area. My thought is should I someday want 12v in the dinette area or going into the kitchen area I have a closer 12v source.
I suppose the stove vent would be another source in the kitchen area. I know there might be other and better ways to accomplish this but my main reason for these questions is to get a better understanding of what is involved in accessing power after the build.
Another question, has anyone snaked wires across the ceiling from one side to the other? How else might someone get access from one side to the other? I haven't intentions to do this, just wondering how that might be accomplished.
While not across the ceiling, I did add a central overhead light (before they became standard) to my Escape 17B. Here is a bit of description. Essentially, it involves using a sharp, stiff wire to burrow through the foam under the vinyl surface. Doable, but a mistake could be ugly!
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Old 03-02-2019, 02:30 PM   #11
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Hi Ronn

There is a high amp 12 volt run of cable at the rear of the fridge that you can use. Most people never run their fridge on 12 volts and it is just a waste to have this line sitting there not used. Keep in mind you still need the original wires attached as the fridge does need some 12 volts to run, even on propane.

If you are mounting something on the roof that needs power, just run the wires into the roof top fridge vent, down and through a fuse to this power source. No holes...no extra cables to the panel.

In the next few months I will be writing up in detail a whole series of items that will be using this power source in Modifications to Eggscape.
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Old 03-02-2019, 02:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronn View Post
There doesn't seem to be a lot of information regarding the snaking of wiring after the build. I have a 5.0 on order and planning to install a WeBoost in the area above the microwave or refrigerator.
In a 5.0 (a 21 should be the same) I will need 12 volt power either above the refrigerator or the microwave cabinet. I understand I can have a 12 volt line dropped there, but I am wondering how difficult it would be if I have the 12v drop go into the cabinet above the back wall (dinette area) and snake the wire to the We Boost area. My thought is should I someday want 12v in the dinette area or going into the kitchen area I have a closer 12v source.
I suppose the stove vent would be another source in the kitchen area. I know there might be other and better ways to accomplish this but my main reason for these questions is to get a better understanding of what is involved in accessing power after the build.
Another question, has anyone snaked wires across the ceiling from one side to the other? How else might someone get access from one side to the other? I haven't intentions to do this, just wondering how that might be accomplished.
Running a wire to either above the microwave or refrigerator is fairly easy. Run the wiring from the converter 12v panel down the back of the bottom cabinets below the fridge/microwave stack and then come up the back of either stack.

Look at the build pic attached - in the back of the bottom cabinets on the right is where Escape runs a wiring bundle to the devices on that side of the trailer.
The wiring runs along the top of the wheel wells next to the trailer shell and then runs up where needed to each device. The panel in the back of each cabinet is open at the top enough to be able to pull new wiring from cabinet to cabinet. There is a space between the back of the bottom cabinets and the trailer shell making a wiring chase.
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Old 03-02-2019, 03:40 PM   #13
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Another question, has anyone snaked wires across the ceiling from one side to the other? How else might someone get access from one side to the other? I haven't intentions to do this, just wondering how that might be accomplished.
Personally in a 21 or 5.0 I would try using the full upper cabinets across the back. If you are starting down low you can remove the wood panel behind the dinette table or if u-shaped dinette use the back bench area to come across and then go vertical in the corners where there are removable vinyl covered pads.
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Old 03-02-2019, 04:26 PM   #14
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Thanks Jon, that is very helpful info, just what I was looking for. I wasn't aware of how the overhead ceiling was put together.
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Old 03-02-2019, 04:30 PM   #15
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Hi Ronn

There is a high amp 12 volt run of cable at the rear of the fridge that you can use. Most people never run their fridge on 12 volts and it is just a waste to have this line sitting there not used. Keep in mind you still need the original wires attached as the fridge does need some 12 volts to run, even on propane.

If you are mounting something on the roof that needs power, just run the wires into the roof top fridge vent, down and through a fuse to this power source. No holes...no extra cables to the panel.

In the next few months I will be writing up in detail a whole series of items that will be using this power source in Modifications to Eggscape.
Great info, thanks Ed
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Old 03-02-2019, 04:33 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
Running a wire to either above the microwave or refrigerator is fairly easy. Run the wiring from the converter 12v panel down the back of the bottom cabinets below the fridge/microwave stack and then come up the back of either stack.

Look at the build pic attached - in the back of the bottom cabinets on the right is where Escape runs a wiring bundle to the devices on that side of the trailer.
The wiring runs along the top of the wheel wells next to the trailer shell and then runs up where needed to each device. The panel in the back of each cabinet is open at the top enough to be able to pull new wiring from cabinet to cabinet. There is a space between the back of the bottom cabinets and the trailer shell making a wiring chase.
Thanks Tom, looks like you just saved me $50!!
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Old 03-02-2019, 04:39 PM   #17
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Personally in a 21 or 5.0 I would try using the full upper cabinets across the back. If you are starting down low you can remove the wood panel behind the dinette table or if u-shaped dinette use the back bench area to come across and then go vertical in the corners where there are removable vinyl covered pads.
Great, like I said, I don't think I have a need for this but I did at one time entertain the idea of getting wiring across. Thanks Dave
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Old 03-02-2019, 05:30 PM   #18
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For what it's worth.

The glass in the doors is very opaque so you will be needing some very bright lights in order to be seen through the glass.
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Old 03-02-2019, 05:37 PM   #19
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For what it's worth.

The glass in the doors is very opaque so you will be needing some very bright lights in order to be seen through the glass.
At this time I am not planning for lights in overheads, do you have glass in yours and are you planning lights?
I wonder what the thoughts of others who now have the glass inserts?
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Old 03-02-2019, 05:48 PM   #20
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At this time I am not planning for lights in overheads, do you have glass in yours and are you planning lights?
I wonder what the thoughts of others who now have the glass inserts?
Our newly built 21' has the glass inserts.

I was never planning on installing lights inside the cabinets just pointing out the opaque nature of the glass.

Given how opaque the glass is , I can't see lighting installed inside the cabinets as being effective at doing much of anything other than maybe being pretty.
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