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Old 07-05-2013, 04:28 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NuthatchBC View Post
ice-breaker -

Would you please post the dimensions of your chocks i.e. size of the wood you used, angles, length of threaded rod, etc. I want to try building a set for our 19. Sure glad I didn't order the BAL-X ones for a hundred bucks <g>.

Doug
I didn't actually have a plan drawn up and didn't write anything down as I was building, just adjusted things till they fit. From my recollections following is the material list:
- four 4x4 blocks cut 6" wide at widest point. Angles on blocks were cut at 20° on the mitre saw to attain the narrowest width on block (you may wish to check your angles as you cut them to make sure they fit your setup).
- 2 pieces of 1/2" threaded rod, each piece 16" long
- 2 lock nuts for 1/2" threaded rod
- 4 regular nuts for 1/2" threaded rod
- 6 large washers.

Hopefully this suffices.
dave
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:39 PM   #62
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Even though I have the X-chocks, I still want to make a set, as they seem sleeker and more compact. Plus, I think it is a great idea and I like to play (not that I don't have umpteen dozen other things to do ). I have some 2" rough cut birch that I could smooth on the planer that should work just dandy. Hopefully that would be wide enough, I know the X-chocks don't really have a lot of surface area. Maybe apply some 1/4" rubber for grip.

Dave, aren't the nuts 3/4" (wrench size) like most 1/2" rods or bolts use?
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:52 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
...Dave, aren't the nuts 3/4" (wrench size) like most 1/2" rods or bolts use?
You are right. A 3/4" wrench works fine. I originally posted 1" but thought better of it and deleted that.
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:36 PM   #64
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OK, this might sound really lame but where do you place the wrench to operate the chocks, top or bottom? And, unless you have one of the nuts anchored to one of the chocks, how do you keep both nuts from turning during the adjustment? I just ain't seein' it.

Doug
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:44 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NuthatchBC View Post
OK, this might sound really lame but where do you place the wrench to operate the chocks, top or bottom? And, unless you have one of the nuts anchored to one of the chocks, how do you keep both nuts from turning during the adjustment? I just ain't seein' it.

Doug
Hi: NuthatchBC... You'd probably need a "Nut cracker". LoL
Sssorry I couldn't resist!!! Alf
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:11 PM   #66
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After further scrutiny, I think I see it. The two lock nuts, I'm assuming these are Nylock nuts, go on the top and bottom of one of the chocks along with a large flat washer. A regular nut and flat washer go on the bottom of the other chock. This nut is the one turned with a wrench, pulling both chocks together. If this is how it works, I trust there is enough friction from the lock nuts to keep the rod from turning.

Do I have it correct now? I'm a slow visual learner <g>.

Doug
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:44 AM   #67
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How do you feel now, Doug? You sure look a lot smarter.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:29 PM   #68
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True, it will be another two months before my 19 is ready for pickup, yet this thread had me fired up to swallow the cost and order up them wheel chocks. Then you, Ice Breaker, produce an economical alternative so brilliant in its simplicity, I had to smack myself in the forehead a dozen times. I even already had the 1/2-inch threaded rod in my shop.

Ice Breaker, you are my hero.
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Old 07-09-2013, 08:43 PM   #69
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My 19' will have 15" tires but expect that the 20 degree angle will probably be close enough.
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:23 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post

Ice Breaker, you are my hero.
Thankyou. Wish everyone thought so. Right now we have very intermittant internet as we are four days into our three week vacation with the 19. The chocks I made have worked great so far. Lock nut and a regular nut hold the upper piece solid to rod. Lower piece is free to move upwards as you tighten a third nut on bottom of lower wood piece.

Cheers
Dave
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