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Old 07-18-2016, 08:52 AM   #81
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If the batteries are inside, I would consider under the passenger dinette for both, where mine were installed from the factory. There is already more weight on the driver side of the trailer, and this would help balance out the side=to=side loading.
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Old 07-18-2016, 11:22 AM   #82
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With technology progress and scale-up of production we might see a DC unit affordable someday.......

Solar Cooling Systems | Model- K25FT-4
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Old 07-18-2016, 11:25 AM   #83
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I was thinking propane, similar to our refrigerators, cooling down the interiors.
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Old 07-18-2016, 01:44 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
As I'm sure you've gathered this is exactly what I'm thinking except for the propane staying together and centered against the front wall and the batteries flanking the sides. The reasoning being that single propane holders appear tough to come by and I figure it will be easier to extend wiring than to deal with the placement of the dual regulator and associated rework of the piping. It also allows the best access to the batteries without them "caged in" by the condenser and tanks.
That works too, but here's my logic, in case some of it is useful:
  • The propane tanks weigh less than the batteries, so structurally it's easier to accommodate the propane perched on the rails rather than the batteries.
  • A side-by-side pair of propane tanks is wider than a battery box, so if the propane is in the middle the batteries would need to be cantilevered out, while outboard propane can just sit directly on the frame rails.
  • Propane tanks are changed more often than batteries, so having the propane on the outside is better for access.
  • The propane tanks easily come off completely for access to the batteries, but batteries don't come out easily, so they would need to be completely outboard of the frame and low to make propane access easily.
I agree that most propane holders are for two tanks - and consist of nothing but a oval base and threaded rod clamp bar - but there are single-tank holders. I think a desirable holder would be the type that straps the tank against a post, so with the tank out there isn't much in the way. The regulator can just screw onto a plate, and the plumbing from it to the tanks is just a pair of pigtail hoses, which come ready-made in range of lengths.
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Old 07-18-2016, 01:54 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
If the batteries are inside, I would consider under the passenger dinette for both, where mine were installed from the factory. There is already more weight on the driver side of the trailer, and this would help balance out the side=to=side loading.
Thanks for the info. I had originally thought about one on each side to proportion the weight, but what you say makes sense. Based on measurements I can fit the batteries end-to-end in a special purpose box that can be vented. This is a compelling way to avoid the issues with too much on the tongue.

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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
That works too, but here's my logic, in case some of it is useful:
  • The propane tanks weigh less than the batteries, so structurally it's easier to accommodate the propane perched on the rails rather than the batteries.
  • A side-by-side pair of propane tanks is wider than a battery box, so if the propane is in the middle the batteries would need to be cantilevered out, while outboard propane can just sit directly on the frame rails.
  • Propane tanks are changed more often than batteries, so having the propane on the outside is better for access.
  • The propane tanks easily come off completely for access to the batteries, but batteries don't come out easily, so they would need to be completely outboard of the frame and low to make propane access easily.
I agree that most propane holders are for two tanks - and consist of nothing but a oval base and threaded rod clamp bar - but there are single-tank holders. I think a desirable holder would be the type that straps the tank against a post, so with the tank out there isn't much in the way. The regulator can just screw onto a plate, and the plumbing from it to the tanks is just a pair of pigtail hoses, which come ready-made in range of lengths.
I agree with everything you've said which supports the idea further to get the batteries relocated to a reasonable location.
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Old 07-18-2016, 01:54 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I was thinking propane, similar to our refrigerators, cooling down the interiors.
If this split style of compressor-based air conditioning system looks like a challenge to mount, wait until you see an absorption cooler large enough to cool the trailer! Imagine the cooling unit of a refrigerator, at least ten times bigger, and impossible to separate into two units... and working when it's in the mood.

Seriously, the big cooling units on refrigerated food trailers, which are diesel fueled and so could use an absorption design, are all compressor-based and run by diesel engines.
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Old 07-18-2016, 02:05 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
With technology progress and scale-up of production we might see a DC unit affordable someday.......

Solar Cooling Systems | Model- K25FT-4
The current approach to battery-powered air conditioning is to use a suitable inverter to run a 120V AC system. The one in the link runs on 48V DC so it would need an expensive converter to run from a 12V battery bank, so it doesn't have an advantage over an inverter and 120V AC air conditioner. If the air conditioner compressor ran on 12V DC, it would need large power cables.

Smaller air conditioners than most RVs use, often split like Dave's system, are used to cool the cabs and sleepers of long-haul trucks during rest stops. You can buy them from Dometic. They run from batteries which are recharged while driving, and normally run on 120V AC from a suitable inverter.

Kimberley - the Australian maker of expensive caravans for back country camping - already promotes running an air conditioner from battery power, with a large solar system charging the battery.

I think the air conditioning hardware is worked out an readily available (although expensive); the challenge of off-the-grid air conditioning is the source of energy, so the needed improvements are in solar panel and lithium battery cost.
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Old 07-18-2016, 02:58 PM   #88
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With the sketch that Brian posted, you may have to customize your regulators for the propane tanks because of the increased separation between the two tanks. I know that my current regulator on my 19' would not likely work if the tanks were separated by more than a few inches.

In my 19', the dual 6V batteries are in a vented box inside the passenger dinette bench. I know that due to concerns regarding weight distribution, Escape no longer offers that option in new trailers, but it would be relatively simple to move your batteries to this location from the exterior. Adding your compressor to the front of the frame should offset most of the unloading of your hitch that would result from moving the batteries inside.
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Old 07-18-2016, 03:09 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by ice-breaker View Post
In my 19', the dual 6V batteries are in a vented box inside the passenger dinette bench. I know that due to concerns regarding weight distribution, Escape no longer offers that option in new trailers, but it would be relatively simple to move your batteries to this location from the exterior. Adding your compressor to the front of the frame should offset most of the unloading of your hitch that would result from moving the batteries inside.
Do you happen to have any information on the battery box from Escape and possibly a picture or two? The only way I think I can make this work without major surgery under the bench is with an end-to-end configuration using the box that I previously posted that is made by Quickcable. It will run me about $225 with the vent kit through Fastenal. I just want to explore this a bit more before pulling the trigger because this is a bit more cost than I envisioned just to relocate the batteries.
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Old 07-18-2016, 03:24 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by ice-breaker View Post
With the sketch that Brian posted, you may have to customize your regulators for the propane tanks because of the increased separation between the two tanks. I know that my current regulator on my 19' would not likely work if the tanks were separated by more than a few inches.
...
All you have to do is get longer pigtails. I have not verified the regulator connection but I think these are right:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59053-P.../dp/B0014E3MSS
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