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Old 11-20-2018, 05:35 PM   #1
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Hatch Door Structure ?

I've installed a WiFi Ranger and WeBoost in our '19. These have removable outside antennas which connect through a "panel plug". One plug for ethernet (WiFi Ranger) and one for coax (WeBoost). I don't want to put more holes in our shell, so have routed these to the hatch door under the beds. I figure to put these plugs through that door rather than the shell itself. The plugs are like this:


The plugs are to mount on a thin panel. However, the hatch door is some 1/2" thick. Here are pics on the outside and inside of our door. (Yes, I was able to put the hatch clasp back on with double sided tape. We'll see how long this lasts.)



I'd like to cut a large hole into the inside of the door, but only a small hole in the outer most skin. Otherwise I'll cut a large hole through and put a mounting plate on the outside. The first option would be cleanest.

So my question. Does anyone know the structure of these hatch doors? They seem to have a hard skin inside and out. What is the core made of? Would it be possible to cut a "large" hole from the inside leaving the outer skin intact?

Thank you for any help.

Hugh
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Old 11-20-2018, 08:56 PM   #2
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I would drill through the foam core door from the back with the pilot/center bit but stop before the main cutter touched the outer skin. Then I would enlarge the small pilot hole for the jack.
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Old 11-21-2018, 05:15 AM   #3
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Not that I've done it but I believe it's just the 2 layers of thin skin and solid foam filler.

I'd drill a 1/2" hole thru the inner skin to see what it is. Then either do like Eggscape says or use a small trim router, 1/4" straight bit, and maybe a template if you don't want to go freehand.
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Old 11-21-2018, 06:19 AM   #4
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I have cut thru some, the inner core is loose foam bubbles held together with a glue, flimsy exterior covering. Just seal good for water leaks.
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Old 11-21-2018, 08:26 AM   #5
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Why not put it in the shell. That seems like a bit of a "non-professional" (for lack of a better word) solution. The skin of the hatch door is way to wimpy in my opinion, and you would have to deal with the hassle of the cable being in the way when using the hatch.

If for some reason at some time in the future you no longer need the plug you could just do an easy fibreglass repair.
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Old 11-21-2018, 08:57 AM   #6
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Why not put it in the shell. That seems like a bit of a "non-professional" (for lack of a better word) solution. .
What Jim said. They’re called “access” hatches, and a wire or cable would somewhat limit the access, and look like an afterthought. Which it is. Coax and Ethernet jacks, are pretty common and mounting them elsewhere would and should work out just fine.

My vote is to put it in the shell.
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Old 11-21-2018, 10:09 AM   #7
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Well if we're voting mine is downwards through the floor and use an automotive type firewall grommet. This allows for expansion if other cables are required at a later date.

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Old 11-21-2018, 10:26 AM   #8
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Well if we're voting mine is downwards through the floor and use an automotive type firewall grommet. This allows for expansion if other cables are required at a later date.

Ron
That would be ok, provided the OP knows that the floor is riding on channels/pontoons. Drilling into the top of the channel/pontoons might be preferred, so the jacks or cables don’t drop down and impede moisture, since those channels supposedly; act as a drain.
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Old 11-21-2018, 10:43 AM   #9
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and the bottom does not have the foam spray........
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Old 11-21-2018, 10:48 AM   #10
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I would drill through the foam core door from the back with the pilot/center bit but stop before the main cutter touched the outer skin. Then I would enlarge the small pilot hole for the jack.
To clarify...this is an answer to how I would drill the door...as asked...not how I would install the jacks in my trailer.
As always a lot of good points and it would not be the first time that input has changed someone’s mind.
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