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Old 07-06-2014, 10:57 PM   #1
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Heat Pad / Under Bed Lighting Switches On LED Warning Light Mod

Heat Pad / Under Bed Lighting Switch On LED Warning Light Mod
Hey,
I was concerned with the heat pad switch long toggle style under the 19’ Escape Bed and without lighting it was hard to see anything stored in the under bed storage area.
The original switch with and LED warning light added by CPAHarley was a great Idea. However, I felt if I bumped the long toggle switch turning it on I would never know as the LED was located right at the switch. With the addition of LED lighting under the bed I also wanted to know if I accidentally left it on as it is controlled by two switches one at the access hatch and one under the bed.
Note: You will need to be able to fit between the doors under the bed and still be able to have use of your arms.
Tools Needed:
Tape Measure
Straight Ruler
Masking Tape For Lay Out For Cut Out of LED Plate Doing it On Tape easier than trying to do it on the paneling and if you make a mistake you can peel it off and start over.
Screwdriver with interchangeable apex’s Square/Phillips/Cabinet
Butt Connector Kit with Stripper / crimper pliers (I prefer to have both types one crimps in front of the pivot and one behind for ease of use in tight spaces the front crimp works best. But stripping from the front is also needed for tight spaces).
12 V Power tester
Multi-meter (Not Required But Nice To Have For Ensuring Wiring Correct At Switches)
Tools needed for cutting out the area behind the LED mounting plate:
Drill
#21 Drill Bit (5/32”) For #8 CSK Screw LED Mount Plate
#21 Drill Bit (5/32”) Counter Sink LED Mount Plate
#10 Drill Bit (3/16”) For #10 Pan Head Self Driving Screw Bracket Mount and #10 Pan Head Machine Screws Box to bracket mounting.
Unibit up to 9/16” Unless you have a Drill Index up to that size (3/8” for grommet and 9/16” for LED bodies)
Ύ Hole saw
Key Hole saw with reversible blade (Cuts vertical / horizontal)
Or
RotoZip Tool
Hardware Needed:
10 Ga Stranded Red Wire (6’) (If Extension of Heat Pad Power Wire is Required)
16 Ga Stranded Wire Red (20’ Roll To Be Safe)
16 Ga Wire Black (6’)
2 ea 10 Ga Butt Splice (Yellow is common for this gauge) (Switch/Led Light Style Dependent)
2 Ea 10 Ga Ring Terminal #6 / #8 (Yellow is common for this gauge) (Switch/Led Light Style Dependent)
3 Ea 16 Ga Butt Splice (Red is common for this gauge) (Switch/Led Light Style Dependent)
8 Ea 16 Ga Female Spade Connector (Switch/Led Light Style Dependent May Need Ring Style)
2 Each Guarded SPST Switch (Shown) (12V rated)
1 Each Guarded SPST (RED) (I used a 120V rated due to the High Amp Draw of Heat Pad)
1 Each Project Box Radio Shack Sized For Two Switches 3”x5” (ABS Plastic W/Stainless Front Plate)
2 Each 3/8 Grommets (Used for Wires in and out of back of box)
3” Alum 1”leg L angle (Mount bracket for project box)
3” Alum 1” Flat (Mount Plate For LED)
2 Ea #8 x Ύ” CSK Self Driving Screws (Led Mount Plate)
2 Ea #10 x Ύ” Pan Head Self Driving Screws (Box Mounting Bracket)
2 Ea # 10 x ½” Pan Head Machine Screw (Box To Mount Bracket)
4 Ea # 10 Washers (Box To Mount Bracket)
2 Ea # 10 Nyla Nut Prevents Loosening from Vibration (Box To Mount Bracket)
You can fish the wires for the LED plate back to the cabinet area above the outlet from under the bed through one of the openings for OEM wiring openings.
Pre Drill mount bracket holes, box to bracket holes, led holes and led plate screw holes.
Make LED plate before doing the cut out for mounting to ensure you get the correct dimensions.
See the Pictures below if you have any specific questions etc PM or ask here if they are general in nature.
If you take on this project it is at your own risk to your trailer :} Hardware and Tool Listing May Not be Accurate for your hardware etc.
Cypher
I will have to make two posts for pics.
OriginalHeaterPad Switch.jpg

OrignalSwitch.jpg

DuringInstall.jpg

RSProjectBox.jpg

2ndSwtchMockUp.jpg

RedLed.jpg

LEDLightSwitch.jpg

InstalComplete.jpg
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Old 07-06-2014, 11:04 PM   #2
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BedLightLedTest.jpg

HeatPadTestLed.jpg

BothSwitchesOn.jpg
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Old 07-07-2014, 06:32 AM   #3
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Nice work, good idea on moving the lights outside the box. It is a real pain working under there, isn't it? I felt trapped when I put up the original LED xmas lights under there.
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Old 07-07-2014, 07:39 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Nice work, good idea on moving the lights outside the box. It is a real pain working under there, isn't it? I felt trapped when I put up the original LED xmas lights under there.
Hey,

Yeah it is though, more for my back going across that ridge them anything else though, had to be somewhat of a contortionist to feed wires and such. I have not hung the LEDs yet everything is set for them just plug and clip and done. I am going to paint the underside white to reflect more light ( May Rent A Child To Do It :}). I will take a picture when it is done I have a before paint with LED shot.
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Old 07-07-2014, 08:20 AM   #5
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OK ….Tom Sawyer….or was that Huck Finn?
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Old 08-23-2014, 08:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
OK ….Tom Sawyer….or was that Huck Finn?
Hey,

I don't remember but I could have used either one painted and installed the LEDs looks a heck of a lot brighter.

NCM_0016.jpg

NCM_0017.jpg

NCM_0018.jpg

NCM_0015.jpg

Totally Dark inside the trailer lol you get the idea it is a bit bright.:}

One switch at each access point either one turns the inside Blue LED on to warn me the lights are on ... Though, no one may be home :}

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Old 08-23-2014, 08:43 PM   #7
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NCM_0019.jpg
Lights on under bed Blue Warning Light On

NCM_0012.jpg

No LED just painted white.
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Old 08-23-2014, 08:51 PM   #8
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I feel like it's homecoming, nice work there.
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:40 PM   #9
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Nice and bright in there. How much paint did you get your face crawling under there. That refectix helps too, I have been thinking of adding it too.
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:56 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
Nice and bright in there. How much paint did you get your face crawling under there. That refectix helps too, I have been thinking of adding it too.
None believe it or not, now my hand , arm and shirt well good thing the stuff dries fast and rolls right off when it is. The shirt well it is now a paint rag lol. I used a cutting in brush and paint blade just painted the plywood and out to about an inch and a half from the walls. I did not want to mask and such nor paint around the wiring and such. I used one of the 1 inch medium rough surface roller with a LONG handle :} hence no paint in the face. Some of my lines are off but I was not wearing my glasses I was worried about getting paint on them so oh well. It is a lot brighter with it painted then it was with out. You want to Ram Rod a floor job I will paint yours and do the lights ...:} It is nicer here in the winter then there ..just saying ROFLMAO.

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