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Old 12-16-2018, 10:12 AM   #1
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More Mods, not seen elsewhere

Being only the 2 of us we use our u shaped dinette as a lounge space.
I wanted to use the space beneath the table rear and above the rear cushion for storage so devised the following:



We have a Springfield table mount which allows the table (custom) to be rotated and then slid to the rear. I built a box of sorts to the dimensions available.

Top width is the width between the table slides.
Bottom width is the width of the small sterilite shoebox containers https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sterilit...8960/203120094 we use to hold small items
Depth is from the width of 2 shoebox containers + a bit
Side height is about 3 inches, Overall height is from the cushion top surface to the top of the pedestal top wood plate.



When in position the table can remain up during travel as it is well supported and does not bounce
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Old 12-16-2018, 10:17 AM   #2
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Using the storage mod below the table restricted the access to the lower cabinet at the rear.
I don’t mind moving things to do battery maintenance, but daily use was out of the question.

Solution: add a door

Measuring the area noted 12 inches between the top and bottom supports across the front, the vertical support near the converter could be used also, only one side needed a vertical set to 14 inches from the one at the converter.
Menard’s had unfinished oak doors on sale, 13 X 16 https://www.menards.com/main/kitchen...4450524753.htm

After fitting the one support I used a pin router to go around the opening, beware there may be a couple of unsupported spots at the converter side support.


Adding 4 cabinet door latches https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...6030/303006780 and then finished the door and installed
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Old 12-16-2018, 10:29 AM   #3
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A while ago we had an issue with the furnace overtemp switch causing cycling of the flame.
Through testing I found it was within spec, so went looking for other possible causes.

I noted that Dometic supplies a flexible duct for the hot air out, never been a fan of these, though in some places they are unavoidable.
Measuring the 12 inch long as supplied duct, when collapsed to the 5 inches, the inside was reduced to less than 4 inches, volume restriction.

I also noted that the furnace flange was in near perfect alignment to the outlet in a straight line.


A 5 inch piece of round metal duct https://www.homedepot.com/p/5-in-x-2...5X24/100165174
cut at 5 inches, the distance from the furnace front to the vent cover, trimmed slightly to get a flush fit of the cover gave a full flow of the furnace.

Since this mod I have not tripped the high limit switch once on the furnace.

I have done a bunch of other mods that were shown in the other threads on the forum, and want to thank all those who took the time to share their “Make It Your Own” ideas
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Old 12-16-2018, 11:25 AM   #4
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Thank you for posting the site to get those oak doors. I’ve been wanting to install them under my dinette and was going to try my hand at making some, but these prices are good.
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Old 12-16-2018, 11:32 AM   #5
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Thank you for posting the site to get those oak doors. I’ve been wanting to install them under my dinette and was going to try my hand at making some, but these prices are good.

ETI will also sell you direct the same doors that they use throughout the trailer. I’ve purchased one or two from them for use in nonstandard placement.
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Old 12-16-2018, 11:56 AM   #6
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How does one determine if their flame is cycling while in use? I mean why not just remove the flexible vent part and install the straight piece? It will make the furnace more efficient with less obstruction?
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Old 12-16-2018, 12:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TZBrown View Post
Being only the 2 of us we use our u shaped dinette as a lounge space.
I wanted to use the space beneath the table rear and above the rear cushion for storage so devised the following:



We have a Springfield table mount which allows the table (custom) to be rotated and then slid to the rear. I built a box of sorts to the dimensions available.

Top width is the width between the table slides.
Bottom width is the width of the small sterilite shoebox containers https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sterilit...8960/203120094 we use to hold small items
Depth is from the width of 2 shoebox containers + a bit
Side height is about 3 inches, Overall height is from the cushion top surface to the top of the pedestal top wood plate.



When in position the table can remain up during travel as it is well supported and does not bounce
A clever custom mod. The only concern that I'd have is that underway there will be some movement between the bottom and the cushion. Over time it could cause some chafe on the cushion fabric. I'd be tempted to put a piece of poly between the shelf bottom and the fabric.

Ron
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Old 12-16-2018, 12:16 PM   #8
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I noted that Dometic supplies a flexible duct for the hot air out, never been a fan of these, though in some places they are unavoidable.
I think most HVAC folks would cringe when they looked at the factory installation.

It's a much better situation now and in my experience with that flexible ducting a long term improvement because sometimes the flexible ducting can get brittle and breakdown.

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Old 12-16-2018, 12:22 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by TZBrown View Post

Menard’s had unfinished oak doors on sale, 13 X 16 [
What a deal at that price. I paid several times that per door buying them from ETI. Not an exact match with the perimeter routing but it's not something that would deter me from using them if I wanted to add more doors.

Come to think of it, I'm all doored out. No where else that I could possibly add a door.

Ron
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Old 12-16-2018, 01:23 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
How does one determine if their flame is cycling while in use? I mean why not just remove the flexible vent part and install the straight piece? It will make the furnace more efficient with less obstruction?
Listen carefully when the furnace runs, if you run it long enough, starting from a low inside temp, you may hear the gas valve close and the air temp out the vent gets cooler. When the switch cools down to below 90C it closes and again the gas flows and the heat begins again.

Removing the flex duct and installing the straight piece is exactly what I would recommend to anyone wanting better efficiency
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Old 12-16-2018, 01:26 PM   #11
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Was the work done outside via the access door or inside?
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Old 12-16-2018, 01:27 PM   #12
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A clever custom mod. The only concern that I'd have is that underway there will be some movement between the bottom and the cushion. Over time it could cause some chafe on the cushion fabric. I'd be tempted to put a piece of poly between the shelf bottom and the fabric.

Ron
There usually is a chafe guard in there, removed for the photos.
The table hardly moves, a bit of down pressure on top before locking in place helps. I suspect we will upgrade the foam in the cushions before long, and maybe the covers at the same time
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Old 12-16-2018, 01:33 PM   #13
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Was the work done outside via the access door or inside?
All of the furnace work was from inside, simply remove the 2 screws holding the plastic furnace vent cover, pull off the flex tube, measure and fit the metal duct, and reinstall the vent cover.

The improved airflow "may" have a benefit as well on the sail switch. The same motor runs both fans. Slowing the air flow at the inside furnace heat vent also slows the exhaust gas flow of the exhaust outside, which would affect the sail switch
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Old 12-16-2018, 01:35 PM   #14
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Thank you for posting the site to get those oak doors. I’ve been wanting to install them under my dinette and was going to try my hand at making some, but these prices are good.
I have the tools to make them also, but at that price, would not bother to buy the oak for the frames
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Old 12-16-2018, 01:49 PM   #15
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Would there be a significant difference in heat retention/dissipation inside the cabinet between the foil and the rigid pipe?
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Old 12-17-2018, 07:17 AM   #16
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Would there be a significant difference in heat retention/dissipation inside the cabinet between the foil and the rigid pipe?
I don't believe so, the air velocity and volume are pretty high, and only 5 inches long
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Old 12-17-2018, 10:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TZBrown View Post
A while ago we had an issue with the furnace overtemp switch causing cycling of the flame.
Through testing I found it was within spec, so went looking for other possible causes.

I noted that Dometic supplies a flexible duct for the hot air out, never been a fan of these, though in some places they are unavoidable.
Measuring the 12 inch long as supplied duct, when collapsed to the 5 inches, the inside was reduced to less than 4 inches, volume restriction.

I also noted that the furnace flange was in near perfect alignment to the outlet in a straight line.


A 5 inch piece of round metal duct https://www.homedepot.com/p/5-in-x-2...5X24/100165174
cut at 5 inches, the distance from the furnace front to the vent cover, trimmed slightly to get a flush fit of the cover gave a full flow of the furnace.

Since this mod I have not tripped the high limit switch once on the furnace.
Great work. Others have reported their newer style furnaces cycling before space temperature was satisfied and I tried to convey it was not normal. I'm even more convinced now that it was the high temperature limit switch. One can see from the manual for the Atwood AFSAD12 (now Dometic DFSAD12) that it should be a 5" front discharge duct. They even say that if it is restricted it may cycle on high limit. These furnace models have the low amp draw motors and cannot handle really any resistance on the front discharge.
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File Type: jpg AFSAD ducting requirement.JPG (131.4 KB, 16 views)
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Old 12-17-2018, 10:25 AM   #18
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On my way to HD to pick up 5” pipe. Can I get you a new tape measure?😂
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Old 12-17-2018, 10:44 AM   #19
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Thanks, TZ for posting the furnace mod as well as your other mod.
I’m in on the furnace and it is on my to do list as soon as I pick up the materials.
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Old 12-17-2018, 10:45 AM   #20
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Great work. Others have reported their newer style furnaces cycling before space temperature was satisfied and I tried to convey it was not normal. I'm even more convinced now that it was the high temperature limit switch. One can see from the manual for the Atwood AFSAD12 (now Dometic DFSAD12) that it should be a 5" front discharge duct. They even say that if it is restricted it may cycle on high limit. These furnace models have the low amp draw motors and cannot handle really any resistance on the front discharge.
This is very interesting as I noticed our furnace kicked off a couple of times prior to reaching desired temp. I was assuming the thermostat just wasn't very accurate.

How is the rigid pipe connected to the furnace? It's not just connected to the grill, is it?
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