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Old 01-25-2019, 10:54 PM   #1
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Voltage Regulator on Fridge

I need some help from those of you with electrical skills beyond mine. I’ve purchased a 6A 12V voltage regulator that I want to install to protect my Dometic fridge’s circuit board.

IMG_0534.jpg

As discussed at length in a couple of other threads, the reasoning behind this is that voltage from solar can, at times, exceed the fridge’s input voltage range.

So I have two specific questions that I need help with.

1. Is this the right place to splice in the hot wires of the regulator? (Pictures zoom in to the wire I believe is correct)
IMG_0530.jpgIMG_0531.jpgIMG_0533.jpg

2. Where do I splice in the negative wires from the regulator? This pic shows where both all the negatives in the back seem to end up, on ring terminals. Do I just wire both the negative in and negative out to this same post?
IMG_0532.jpg

Much thanks in advance!
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:02 AM   #2
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If you have the RM2554 fridge you should be fine without the voltage regulator.

According to the service manual it is good from 9.6v to 18v DC and can tolerate up to 22v. Page 10 in the link has the voltages.

https://www.fourwh.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf


The one I would worry more about is the maxxfan with the remote.
Maxxfan Problems
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:06 AM   #3
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Since I'm getting the "no longer offered deluxe MaxxFan" in my new Escape, bring that regulator to the Rally and I may make you an offer you can't refuse.........
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:14 AM   #4
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Since I'm getting the "no longer offered deluxe MaxxFan" in my new Escape, bring that regulator to the Rally and I may make you an offer you can't refuse.........
Another to pay attention to is the water heater,
For the suburban SW6 series , looks like 10.5 to 13.5v per page 10 in this manual.
I added a 5amp buck boost to mine.

http://docs.renegaderv.com/Suburban/...2005-18-11.pdf
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:18 AM   #5
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So far there has not been any issue with the propane only water heater, just the 120v operation when empty.........oops.
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:24 AM   #6
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So far there has not been any issue with the propane only water heater, just the 120v operation when empty.........oops.

I thought about reinstalling the Dinosaur board I bought when the original board failed as it has built in voltage regulation.
Suburban sent me a new board to replace the bad Fenwal board and so far it has not had any issues. I do know it does not have voltage regulation on it so I added the regulator just in case.


Edit. Who is able to find the voltage requirements for the electric awning and heaters? So far I have not found anything on either. I emailed both companies asking what the dc voltage limits were and they never responded.
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wetzk View Post
If you have the RM2554 fridge you should be fine without the voltage regulator.

According to the service manual it is good from 9.6v to 18v DC and can tolerate up to 22v. Page 10 in the link has the voltages.

https://www.fourwh.com/NewDometicRefrigeratorManual.pdf
I had to look for the voltage limits in the Dometic manual you referenced. Here is what I found:
"The operational range of the unit is a minimum of 9.6V DC to a maximum of
22V DC. The unit will automatically shut down until voltage has decreased to 18V DC. The refrigerator requires at least 9.6V DC for proper operation; however the panel lights will continue to illuminate until voltage has dropped to 4V DC or below. "

Quote:
Originally Posted by wetzk View Post
The one I would worry more about is the maxxfan with the remote.
Maxxfan Problems
I have a new Maxxfan control board on order. (Maxxfan 10-21275K-V3.9) I can positively state that they do not like anything over 14.4 volts. I will be installing a voltage stabilizer in the fan before the new board is installed. The voltage stabilizer I am installing is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It small enough to fit in a corner of the fan housing. I'll post install pics when done.

This over voltage issue is getting serious. I'm a little pissed that Escape changed the Maxxfan model and the LED lighting that they install because of the failure rates and said nothing to those of us that own them. How many of us have seen the water heater control board, the LED lights, and the Maxxfan control boards fail not knowing that the failures were due to the battery voltage being too high.
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:01 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
So far there has not been any issue with the propane only water heater, just the 120v operation when empty.........oops.
Actually, I know of several people that have had the Suburban Ignition Control Circuit Board 520814 fail. We can now guess the probable reason.
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Old 01-26-2019, 10:07 AM   #9
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This over voltage issue is getting serious. I'm a little pissed that Escape changed the Maxxfan model and the LED lighting that they install because of the failure rates and said nothing to those of us that own them.

Did you notice the manufacturer of the lights upgraded them? LED dome lights
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Old 01-26-2019, 11:40 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
I had to look for the voltage limits in the Dometic manual you referenced. Here is what I found:
"The operational range of the unit is a minimum of 9.6V DC to a maximum of
22V DC. The unit will automatically shut down until voltage has decreased to 18V DC. The refrigerator requires at least 9.6V DC for proper operation; however the panel lights will continue to illuminate until voltage has dropped to 4V DC or below. "

Well, that’s a relief. I was going off the appendix in the back of the RM2554 operating instructions manual, which lists DC voltage specification range of 9.5-15V. Why the discrepancy though?
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Old 01-26-2019, 12:15 PM   #11
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Actually, I know of several people that have had the Suburban Ignition Control Circuit Board 520814 fail. We can now guess the probable reason.



I responded to you in a private note but thought about it and decided to post about another device failure that can affect the trailers.
The photovoltaic system is not the only setup that can produce higher voltages. The WFCO power center also can go higher than 13.5 volts at times. In my case it was stuck in boost mode. Which is odd since most postings about the WFCO unit on various message boards were complaints that they never go into boost. Water had been added previously when they were low and again the battery water was very low so further investigation found the unit stuck in boost with voltage never going below 14.65v dc. The unit is supposed to go into boost at 50% battery capacity and with mine fully charged the boost was still on. So items that could not handle much over 12v were constantly being exposed to 14.65v. Since the manufacture made it to difficult to use the warranty I replaced the device with a Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power unit.
This device also can output more than 13.5 volts at times so my regulators are still needed.
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Old 01-26-2019, 12:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Well, that’s a relief. I was going off the appendix in the back of the RM2554 operating instructions manual, which lists DC voltage specification range of 9.5-15V. Why the discrepancy though?
Strange isn't it. Tracking down the operating voltages for our devices has been a struggle - Ken (wetzk) has been a great help in this as he's good at finding the reference manuals needed.

So far, the Suburban SW6DE, the Maxxfan 7000k, and the 2017-2018 LED lighting will need voltage regulators if you run higher battery voltages.

The Atwood AFSAD12 heater and the Dometic 9500 awning are still unknown.

I found this for the Atwood: "Voltage should be between 10.5 and 13.5 VDC at the furnace during operation." page 36
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...anual-2015.pdf
so it's suspect as well.

Isn't this fun!
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Old 01-26-2019, 01:21 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
Strange isn't it. Tracking down the operating voltages for our devices has been a struggle - Ken (wetzk) has been a great help in this as he's good at finding the reference manuals needed.

So far, the Suburban SW6DE, the Maxxfan 7000k, and the 2017-2018 LED lighting will need voltage regulators if you run higher battery voltages.

The Atwood AFSAD12 heater and the Dometic 9500 awning are still unknown.

I found this for the Atwood: "Voltage should be between 10.5 and 13.5 VDC at the furnace during operation." page 36
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...anual-2015.pdf
so it's suspect as well.

Isn't this fun!

Looks like I may be installing another regulator device. It looks like it may not affect the electronics if the voltage is high but could shorten the life of the fan motor and affect combustion.


VVOLTAGE
Voltage should be between 10.5 and 13.5 VDC at the
furnace during operation. The power at the furnace needs to
be checked with each of the following power sources when
applicable: generator, battery, and converter. Low voltage
can cause the furnace to overheat and cycle. High voltage
can cause unbalanced combustion, and excessive motor
wear. Note: to increase motor life the furnace should be
wired directly through the battery.


At least on mine the furnace/dsi is the only thing on the circuit so I can check amps and decide on the voltage regulator needed and new fusing. And will not have to pull out the furnace again (shudder).

See what you started sclifrickson
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Old 01-26-2019, 04:53 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
The Atwood AFSAD12 heater and the Dometic 9500 awning are still unknown.

I found this for the Atwood: "Voltage should be between 10.5 and 13.5 VDC at the furnace during operation." page 36
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...anual-2015.pdf
so it's suspect as well.
My Atwood furnace - a design related to the AFSD/AFSAD but earlier - seems to run the fan motor directly on whatever voltage is supplied, without speed control or regulation. It is loud and sounds terrible when the converter runs at high voltage; it seems likely that supply voltage beyond the spec is not good for motor life, aside from what happens to electronics.
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Old 01-26-2019, 08:29 PM   #15
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The photovoltaic system is not the only setup that can produce higher voltages. The WFCO power center also can go higher than 13.5 volts at times.
Just trying to keep this all in perspective and better understand the issue at hand. Similar to what I said in LED dome lights thread there are millions of RV’s that have similar converters and solar systems. “Ideal” battery charging profiles aside for a moment, the standard Go Power solar controller doesn’t go higher than 14.4V unless it is set to equalize which is 14.9V. The standard WFCO converter also has a maximum output voltage of 14.4V. My replacement Progressive Dynamics PD4655LMBA WildKat converter main board is 14.4V max as well.

Are we saying that even with these numbers above that any trailer is at risk of issues? Or are you guys equalizing your batteries at 15V+ which could be the cause? If one where to isolate the batteries and then manually initiate an equalization of the batteries does the issue go away? Just curious as to why only newer trailer owners seem to be concerned here since Escape has used the same converter and very similar solar kits for many years now.
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:44 PM   #16
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Just trying to keep this all in perspective and better understand the issue at hand. Similar to what I said in LED dome lights thread there are millions of RV’s that have similar converters and solar systems. “Ideal” battery charging profiles aside for a moment, the standard Go Power solar controller doesn’t go higher than 14.4V unless it is set to equalize which is 14.9V. The standard WFCO converter also has a maximum output voltage of 14.4V. My replacement Progressive Dynamics PD4655LMBA WildKat converter main board is 14.4V max as well.

Are we saying that even with these numbers above that any trailer is at risk of issues? Or are you guys equalizing your batteries at 15V+ which could be the cause? If one where to isolate the batteries and then manually initiate an equalization of the batteries does the issue go away? Just curious as to why only newer trailer owners seem to be concerned here since Escape has used the same converter and very similar solar kits for many years now.
Per the manufacturer's installation manuals:
  1. Dometic 2554/2663 9.6-18 volts
  2. Suburban SW6DE 10.5-13.5 volts
  3. Maxxfan 7000K 10.6-13.7 volts
  4. Atwood AFSAD12 10.5-13.5 volts
  5. Dometic 9500 ?
  6. 2017-2018 LED light <=12 volts

From the list, I only see one - maybe two devices that are rated to operate at 14.4 volts. Granted, not every device will fail if the recommended voltage range is exceeded - but from the failure rates that keep getting reported, there are enough of them that do to warrant doing some kind of voltage regulation on the circuits feeding them.

And yes, the owners that have solar and are charging absorption / equalization voltages per Interstate battery recommendations, the circuit voltages exceed 15+ volts. That probably kills some devices that could of handled 14.4 volts so the failure rates are higher.
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:02 AM   #17
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See what you started sclifrickson

Oh boy

I think you’re way ahead of me and most everyone else here, actually. I’m just trying to play catch up!

Thanks for leading the way
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:07 AM   #18
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I know nothing, but wouldn't one voltage regulator for all the 12V circuits be sufficient?

As I said, I know nothing, and I've had no problems.
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:07 AM   #19
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Per the manufacturer's installation manuals:
  1. Dometic 2554/2663 9.6-18 volts
  2. Suburban SW6DE 10.5-13.5 volts
  3. Maxxfan 7000K 10.6-13.7 volts
  4. Atwood AFSAD12 10.5-13.5 volts
  5. Dometic 9500 ?
  6. 2017-2018 LED light <=12 volts

Thanks for the concise list! You wouldn’t happen to have amperage draws for those items as well, would you? I want to figure out exactly what voltage regulators I need to get. And figure out where to put ‘em. At least I have a nice looking 6A one on hand now that I’d planned for the fridge, which doesn’t need it after all. Bonus.
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:11 AM   #20
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I know nothing, but wouldn't one voltage regulator for all the 12V circuits be sufficient?

As I said, I know nothing, and I've had no problems.

That would be awesome. But I don’t think it will work. Because of...reasons...that someone smarter than me will hopefully explain. Or even better: you’re right, and I can install one device to get to Happy Land, instead of one device for each of my other onboard devices. Except the fridge. Way to go Dometic, by the way. You get a bad rap for a lot of other crap, but thanks for building in appropriate voltage stuff on my fridge.
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