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Old 07-21-2016, 02:06 PM   #51
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Kountrykamper,
Thank you very much for the info.

Tonny
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Old 07-21-2016, 03:36 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daubsy View Post
Several days passed and the fridge just would not cool down. BUT the freezer was working great, everything still frozen.
.
First, a disclaimer, I don't know anything, really. The fridge is a black hole to me.
BUT, I remember watching a youtube movie about these fridges and they showed a hole at the back bottom of the freezer and said don't obstruct it or allow ice to build over it, because the cool air actually drops out of that hole to cool the rest of the fridge.
Again, I don't know anything, but that sort of meshes with the thought that the evaporation cup should have some water in it, so the cold doesn't leak out
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Old 07-21-2016, 07:29 PM   #53
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Drove today to Tom’s RV in ABQ in search of answers or at least, to gain perspective, on how to deal with this (sic) no-go-pro-paine problem. If possible, I don’t want to pull the fridge out, nor do I want to hitch up and drive 28 miles, drop off the trailer and then wait 48 to 72+ hours, for maybe a seven minute fix.

Tom’s refrigerator guy in ABQ was happy to help. It’s a very busy shop. He suggested first cleaning out the flue. Things get in there. Then, he said use a manometer to check the pressure in the system. Maybe the pilot light isn’t right. A manometer measures pressure in units of water column inches. He said, propane appliances in the RV are designed to operate at 10.5 to 11” of water column. My eyes began to water.

Clean the um, flue, you say? He took me to the shop floor. A Dometic fridge pulled from some big rig was sitting there. The flue is a ” pipe in back running vertically up from the Piezo ignition. I got it. I could do that. I’ll try cleaning the flue.

Back at home. Access to the flue for cleaning becomes less simple then I thought. One screw removed the plate shielding the Piezo ignition but how do I get a brush up past the Piezo and up the flue pipe? I feared mis-aligning these parts. I didn't have a brush for inside a pipe. But then, another screw removed and the Piezo dropped down clearing a way to shove a hose up the flue. Hose was attached to my little airbrush compressor. I worked the hose all the way up and down, then for good measure did it again but attached to a shop vac. Biggest disappointment was no bug bodies mouse eggs or web nets came out. Have no clue what blocked the flue.

Flue job done by 2 PM. Fridge now turned on, to 5 dots on propane, and it is 76F in there. Bob also showed me what they used in the shop to monitor fridge temperature. Real high tech. They get a $6 A/CPRO test thermometer at AutoZone, used for auto air conditioning, drill a 5/16th hole for its stem in a small water bottle cap, fill it with water and seal the thermometer in the plastic bottle. I used a 12 oz. Aquafina because the plastic seemed extra sturdy. Lay it on a shelf. It works, no batteries needed.

Just checked fridge temperature. At 4 PM fridge is 60F and trailer is 88F. At 6 PM fridge is 54F and trailer is 90F. This is looking good.
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:01 PM   #54
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Never say die Myron. Best of luck on your overnight temps. It was 96 F in my shed tonight so the fridge has a ways to go, lit it at 4 it's down to 66F. She'll make it by morning I believe.
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:37 PM   #55
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Just a note. There is a baffel hanging inside the flue that is just clipped to the top of the flue. Be careful not to knock it loose as it will require pulling the fridge to reattach. It is there to slow the heat rising up the flue to allow it to have time to be absorbed into the refrigerant.

See part #102 on page 5

http://www.leisurespares.co.uk/files/rm8551.pdf
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:05 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
Drove today to Toms RV in ABQ in search of answers or at least, to gain perspective, on how to deal with this (sic) no-go-pro-paine problem. If possible, I dont want to pull the fridge out, nor do I want to hitch up and drive 28 miles, drop off the trailer and then wait 48 to 72+ hours, for maybe a seven minute fix.

Toms refrigerator guy in ABQ was happy to help. Its a very busy shop. He suggested first cleaning out the flue. Things get in there. Then, he said use a manometer to check the pressure in the system. Maybe the pilot light isnt right. A manometer measures pressure in units of water column inches. He said, propane appliances in the RV are designed to operate at 10.5 to 11 of water column. My eyes began to water.

Clean the um, flue, you say? He took me to the shop floor. A Dometic fridge pulled from some big rig was sitting there. The flue is a pipe in back running vertically up from the Piezo ignition. I got it. I could do that. Ill try cleaning the flue.

Back at home. Access to the flue for cleaning becomes less simple then I thought. One screw removed the plate shielding the Piezo ignition but how do I get a brush up past the Piezo and up the flue pipe? I feared mis-aligning these parts. I didn't have a brush for inside a pipe. But then, another screw removed and the Piezo dropped down clearing a way to shove a hose up the flue. Hose was attached to my little airbrush compressor. I worked the hose all the way up and down, then for good measure did it again but attached to a shop vac. Biggest disappointment was no bug bodies mouse eggs or web nets came out. Have no clue what blocked the flue.

Flue job done by 2 PM. Fridge now turned on, to 5 dots on propane, and it is 76F in there. Bob also showed me what they used in the shop to monitor fridge temperature. Real high tech. They get a $6 A/CPRO test thermometer at AutoZone, used for auto air conditioning, drill a 5/16th hole for its stem in a small water bottle cap, fill it with water and seal the thermometer in the plastic bottle. I used a 12 oz. Aquafina because the plastic seemed extra sturdy. Lay it on a shelf. It works, no batteries needed.

Just checked fridge temperature. At 4 PM fridge is 60F and trailer is 88F. At 6 PM fridge is 54F and trailer is 90F. This is looking good.
That is mighty clean ! Good as new ! Now I should attend to mine , you are putting me to shame ! Pat
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Old 07-22-2016, 12:12 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Just a note. There is a baffel hanging inside the flue that is just clipped to the top of the flue. Be careful not to knock it loose as it will require pulling the fridge to reattach. It is there to slow the heat rising up the flue to allow it to have time to be absorbed into the refrigerant.

See part #102 on page 5

http://www.leisurespares.co.uk/files/rm8551.pdf
Thanks for that Tom- that would be a mistake where one might surely wish they had hired a pro. With Myron though on doing anything I can rather than hitch up and get on someone's clock if not absolutely necessary.
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Old 07-22-2016, 01:49 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Thanks for that Tom- that would be a mistake where one might surely wish they had hired a pro. With Myron though on doing anything I can rather than hitch up and get on someone's clock if not absolutely necessary.
This is my 3rd Dometic refrigrator. I would definely look at video' s, instruction booklet if you have never tackled this task before . Yes there is the baffle hanging in there . If I remember in previous manuals you need to clean the burner etc. out once in awhile . Or you go get it serviced . I prefer to do what ever I am capable of to do myself . I have a stake in my trailer and I want it done right . Pat
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:11 AM   #59
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Fear not, grasshoppers. Note little screw holding the top of the baffle in place.
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:52 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
Fear not, grasshoppers. Note little screw holding the top of the baffle in place.
Ahh but fear on grasshopper. That screw is holding the flue cap in place not the baffle. The cap has a slot in it the if pushed right the baffle could come off. After pulling the fridge 4 times and making a flue extension I have been in there more than I would like to discuss.

Just a warning for anyone else to be careful. Air should not be a problem but pushing things up the flue could be. You can see the slot on the front of the flue and the baffle wire hanging out of the back slot touching the chimney.

In your picture you can also see the wire that the baffle hangs on sticking out the back slot on the flue cap.

Don't worry Myron, you would have known if it came off because it would have fell out the bottom of the burner.
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