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Old 06-21-2019, 08:05 AM   #1
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Question 2010 17B: Paint the Tired Interior?

Well, we are home with our (new to us) 2010 17B. It is in very good condition, but there are several things we want to do. We are particularly considering refinishing the interior. Previous owners put up a myriad of adhesive hooks in mysterious places. There are several areas where hooks have already been removed resulting in tearing of the wood grain paper(?) surface. I am sure removing the rest of the hooks will result in more damage.

Has anyone painted the interior of their Escape? How did it go, any tips? I will need to repair the torn areas, probably with some type of spackle and sanding to smooth the surface. Do we need a special type of paint to stick to the surface? Will I need to lightly sand all surfaces? I anticipate we will have to use high adhesion primer.

I am not planning on painting the actual oak wood trim, just the wood grain paper surfaces. Would not paint the white soft interior surfaces of the trailer itself.

We would love to see photos of what folks have done, whether just the wood grain surfaces or more extensive painting. It would be helpful in visualizing what is possible.
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Old 06-21-2019, 08:26 AM   #2
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A good cleaning, a light sanding, a coat of good primer and one or two coats of good paint will do the trick well. There are now some great latex paints to do cabinetry work with, I have used some a few times on jobs. A good paint store could assist you too.

I would paint the trim pieces too. Not only would it make the job easier, to me it would look better too. The trim pieces are not oak, but a laminated trim like the panels. The only thing that is oak are the cabinet doors.
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Old 06-21-2019, 08:37 AM   #3
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Let me add one very crucial thing before you paint: painter's tape. Mask everything.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:11 AM   #4
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A good cleaning, a light sanding, a coat of good primer and one or two coats of good paint will do the trick well. There are now some great latex paints to do cabinetry work with, I have used some a few times on jobs. A good paint store could assist you too.
The correct paint and primer for this application are crucial as well as the preparation. I do not consider a big box home center paint department to be a 'good paint store'.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:19 AM   #5
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I think I recall a post showing wood grain repair tape provided by ETI for the repair of the wood/paper veneer. I would suggest that first and if the results are not acceptable then go to the paint method. There is no coming back after you have painted over the veneer.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:24 AM   #6
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The correct paint and primer for this application are crucial as well as the preparation. I do not consider a big box home center paint department to be a 'good paint store'.
I never said or implied this. As a renovation and building contractor, I do know where to go.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:36 AM   #7
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I never said or implied this. As a renovation and building contractor, I do know where to go.
Yes, I know you DID NOT imply that a big box store was a good paint store! I was simply adding some additional information. I don't think my post in any way implied that you recommended a home center.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:41 AM   #8
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Repair tape pretty much disappears if you cut tape so that edges are not parallel.
And, a reminder to save the instructions for removal of 3M Command hooks ( if that's what you have ). If you don't follow those instructions, you will damage the surface.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Tape 1.jpg (127.3 KB, 31 views)
File Type: jpg Tape 2.jpg (252.2 KB, 30 views)
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Old 06-21-2019, 01:19 PM   #9
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Repair tape works great!
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Old 06-21-2019, 05:55 PM   #10
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Unfortunately, most of the hooks are not Command tape.



Is there a source (other than Escape) on the wood grain tape of the same shade?
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Old 06-21-2019, 06:02 PM   #11
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Unfortunately, most of the hooks are not Command tape, and there must be 25-30 of them.

Is there a source (other than Escape) for wood grain tape of the same shade?

Besides, I live with SWMP
(She Who Must Paint)


(Nobody has any pictures??)
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Old 06-21-2019, 06:13 PM   #12
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Unfortunately, most of the hooks are not Command tape, and there must be 25-30 of them.

Is there a source (other than Escape) for wood grain tape of the same shade?

Besides, I live with SWMP
(She Who Must Paint)


(Nobody has any pictures??)
The supplier for Escape plywood and trim materials is here in Calgary. Can't remember their name right now, but not much less further to have Escape send it out.

There is one thread on her where the lady painted the interior of her trailer. I can't remember her username though.
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Old 06-21-2019, 07:45 PM   #13
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If you're going to paint the paneling, then some good advice has already been offered. I worked in a paint store for several years back in the 90s, and would only add one thing: try adding some Floetrol to the latex paint. It's an additive from Flood corp. that makes a big difference in the finish quality when brushed or rolled. It retards the drying a bit, and helps the paint level, so any roller or brush marks disappear. I've used Floetrol for many years and the items I've painted while using it look like they were sprayed professionally, not brushed. For something that is highly visible and smooth like cabinetry or paneling, I would highly recommend it.

Flood also makes a product called Penetrol, but that's for Alkyds (oil based) and not applicable to this application.
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Old 06-21-2019, 08:04 PM   #14
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There is one thread on her where the lady painted the interior of her trailer. I can't remember her username though.
I think this is the one you're remembering Jim


"Sarandipity" is finally finished!
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Old 06-22-2019, 07:19 AM   #15
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I think this is the one you're remembering Jim


"Sarandipity" is finally finished!
Yes it is, thanks.
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Old 06-26-2019, 11:39 AM   #16
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I just finished doing just what you are intending to my 2005 Forest River Class C, with perfect results.
First make your repairs - Then prime with INSL-X (Waterborne Bonding Primer) - Then good quality, waterborne "Kitchen/Bath" paint - then two coats of waterborne poly to protect the paint.
You will be happy !
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Old 06-26-2019, 12:34 PM   #17
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I just finished doing just what you are intending to my 2005 Forest River Class C, with perfect results.

First make your repairs - Then prime with INSL-X (Waterborne Bonding Primer) - Then good quality, waterborne "Kitchen/Bath" paint - then two coats of waterborne poly to protect the paint.

You will be happy !

Ken
Not to argue, but that's an awful lot of additional work, expense and time that really isn't necessary. A high quality interior paint is scrubbable - particularly one with a higher sheen, and there is no need to "protect" it with two coats of polyurethane afterwards. If it ever gets marked up or scratched, a quick touch up with the same paint is very easy.
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Old 06-26-2019, 01:03 PM   #18
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Not to argue, but that's an awful lot of additional work, expense and time that really isn't necessary. A high quality interior paint is scrubbable - particularly one with a higher sheen, and there is no need to "protect" it with two coats of polyurethane afterwards. If it ever gets marked up or scratched, a quick touch up with the same paint is very easy.
I agree. A tough cabinet paint is all that is needed, other than a primer maybe in bare wood first.
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Old 06-26-2019, 03:16 PM   #19
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That was Serandipity or such spelling.I think she sold it, but did a fantastic job on that 17 B.
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Old 06-26-2019, 04:17 PM   #20
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All in all, it took maybe 2 hours for everything. There is very little surface to be done. Paint can't compare to poly for a finish. But each to his own.
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