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Old 05-24-2017, 12:16 AM   #1
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2nd Generation refrigerator issues

On the recent cross country trip to Osoyoos, we left California where it was 108 degrees, the refrigerator was on propane and rose to 52 degrees and stayed there until nightfall. We were in Oregon then and the outside dropped to 40 degrees and the refrigerator finally stabilized to 38 this morning. However on the way Osoyoos, it rose agin to 49 and it is still 49 at 10 pm. The freezer stays below freezing but it rises from 17 to 22 and then drops to 8 by morning. I'm thinking it is blowing out while under tow. I did not have this issue until I did the fridge fix with the silicone.
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Old 05-24-2017, 04:56 AM   #2
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On the recent cross country trip to Osoyoos, we left California where it was 108 degrees, the refrigerator was on propane and rose to 52 degrees and stayed there until nightfall. We were in Oregon then and the outside dropped to 40 degrees and the refrigerator finally stabilized to 38 this morning. However on the way Osoyoos, it rose agin to 49 and it is still 49 at 10 pm. The freezer stays below freezing but it rises from 17 to 22 and then drops to 8 by morning. I'm thinking it is blowing out while under tow. I did not have this issue until I did the fridge fix with the silicone.
Jim, buy a cheap home A/C filter, tear it apart, carefully peel a thin layer of the filtering medium off, and zip tie it to the inside of the vent. This does not restrict air flow substantially but it does seem to alleviate blow out.

Edit: Oops. Just read the Fridge Fun Again thread and saw you are already considering this "fix."
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Old 05-24-2017, 07:11 AM   #3
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Another forum member contacted me with the same issue. They seem to think the Camco insect screens is causing some air turbulence (which I installed after arriving home from Chilliwack. I had no issues previously and have none while camping. It is while towing in high heat.
I'm going to consult with Reace today and get his input. One of the nice things at Osoyoos, getting to pick the brains of the manufacturer.
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Old 05-24-2017, 07:42 AM   #4
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We just spent a week in 90 plus weather on the beach in Florida with the new 5.0 cf fridge in our 19' with no issues. In fact we purchased 4 lbs of fresh seafood we bagged up and put in the freezer at 3:00 pm the afternoon before we left. By morning it was frozen and to 1 F. We traveled 500 miles the next day in 92 degree weather and the freezer never got above 2 and the fridge never got above 38. I have not added a intake screen/filter yet on this trailer because I wanted to see what it would do. Also I found that running the exterior fridge fan below 85 degrees seemed to hurt the temps more than help it. Above 85 it did seem to help. Overall I was very happy with it.

108 may be asking a little to much from almost any RV fridge. If at any point you open the door and let in 90-100 air even for a few seconds its going to loose its temp and not be able to recover for a long time. We have got to the point we carry a cooler for drinks and lunch items while on the road so we don't have to open the door while traveling. While camped opening the door in 90 plus weather did spike the fridge but it would recover fairly fast. I am using one of the new Sensor Push Bluetooth recorders that reacts very fast to even to quickest opening of the door and charts the temperatures over our entire trip along with our old AcuRite thermometer. .

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A3FMIYHRLE9HNB
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Old 05-24-2017, 11:20 AM   #5
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Tom,
I agree that 108 is extreme but it was not being opened when it drops during travel, plus I have the fridge fix which allows access to door items without impacting the refrigerator. My freezer never got above 20 even when the refer was near 50, that leads me to believe the unit is working but something is impacting the refer cooling.
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Old 05-24-2017, 11:36 AM   #6
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I removed the vent cover and found all kinds of debris inside some of which looked charred. I removed the Camco fridge vent covers and inspected the vent, there is evidence of either melting or the vent was not made properly. There are jagged edges along maybe 50% of the vents, all of which may impact air turbulence. Pictures attached
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File Type: jpg IMG_1257.jpg (111.7 KB, 80 views)
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Old 05-24-2017, 11:36 AM   #7
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Again will discuss with Reace when he arrives...
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Old 05-24-2017, 12:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
Jim, buy a cheap home A/C filter, tear it apart, carefully peel a thin layer of the filtering medium off, and zip tie it to the inside of the vent. This does not restrict air flow substantially but it does seem to alleviate blow out.

Edit: Oops. Just read the Fridge Fun Again thread and saw you are already considering this "fix."
I purchased a piece of furnace filter to cut but decided not to install after (1) seeing that it burns when exposed to open flame and (2) my vent openings are all messed up, may need a new refer vent cover. This maybe the issue, but still probing. If I did use the furnace filter I would install it underneath the Camco metal bug screens as a safety precaution.
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Old 05-24-2017, 01:09 PM   #9
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Tom,
plus I have the fridge fix which allows access to door items without impacting the refrigerator.
Yeah, I'm just not sold on that concept. Your still letting a door full of heat into the fridge but then after you close it not allowing full circulation of air throughout the fridge. Personally I like using a little battery powered fridge fan if anything like the ones below to circulate all the air around the fridge, especially if the fridge is full.

Yours does look as if something may be getting too hot causing flaking inside the boiler. I would remove all the gadgets and start over.

Just my thoughts.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A10-...KX24YFEH8ZVEJQ

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44123-F.../dp/B0006IX7TW
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Old 05-24-2017, 04:16 PM   #10
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In lieu of the furnace filter, which I agree is vulnerable to melting, scorching or burning, I liked the recommendation to use a stovetop filter. All metal and easily cut to size.

The furnace filters that I have seen photographed have only covered up about one half of the removable vent, leaving the balance or upper half of the vent uncovered. I would assume that if using the metal stovetop filter one would use the same technique of covering only half the vent?
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Old 05-24-2017, 05:15 PM   #11
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Agreed. If a filter is going to be tried it should be a 1/8 metal mesh material and not fiberglass or similar and not cover all of the vent.
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Old 05-24-2017, 09:06 PM   #12
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Reace came over and surmised that the issue is not the refer blowing out but warm air being sucked into the refer. There is no cup like the older model that prevents this. If the flame was blown out there would be a fault light, similar to the water heater that flame out occurred. Since that did not happen then the heat is being sucked into the refer through that vent that is open to the outside. He suggests cracking a window or plugging the vent somehow....
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Old 05-24-2017, 10:52 PM   #13
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Just what is this vent that is open to the outside? Is this the drain for condensation?
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Old 05-25-2017, 02:41 AM   #14
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Just what is this vent that is open to the outside? Is this the drain for condensation?
Yes, the condensation or defrost drain tube has a special end that is supposed to hold water and prevent air escaping, but with all this heat the water is evaporating quickly thus the tube is open thus allowing warm air to enter the refrigerator. That is his opinion and he suggests that a crack in the window will slow down the vacuum effect while towing. Otherwise the performance is great sitting still, even in 100+ temperatures.
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Old 05-25-2017, 04:59 AM   #15
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If you do crack a window, keep an eye on it the first time you drive in the rain.
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Old 05-25-2017, 05:14 AM   #16
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Yes, the condensation or defrost drain tube has a special end that is supposed to hold water and prevent air escaping, but with all this heat the water is evaporating quickly thus the tube is open thus allowing warm air to enter the refrigerator. That is his opinion and he suggests that a crack in the window will slow down the vacuum effect while towing. Otherwise the performance is great sitting still, even in 100+ temperatures.
Hi: cpaharley2008... Sounds almost like that drain tube needs a "P" trap to ensure some water stays in it. SOB Stickies loop it out thru the vent grille.
Heading off for a couple of weeks in the trailer. Thanks for reminding me that my cup should runeth over!!! Alf
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Old 05-25-2017, 06:47 AM   #17
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fridge

jim don't you have solar on your 19.Why not just run on 12 volt? we do and in the drive back from Chicago and the few outings the batteries recovered in a few hours .Thats driving for a 10 hour day
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:13 AM   #18
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:24 AM   #19
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I was thinking of cracking the bath window, no issue with rain there and will experiment with the 12v operation for those daytime towing hours. Coming out we did about 50% day and 50% night driving. It seemed that the drop would start about 3 pm and continue till I stopped driving which sometimes was 2-3 am. The next morning it was recovering and returning to normal. Im thinking of adding a short piece of hose and looping it for a trap, like Alf's comment. Just need to remember to add some water before each trip.
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Old 05-25-2017, 08:43 AM   #20
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Not quite understanding the end of that condensation tube but it agrees with prior posts for the RMD series, that is, the recommended method is filling the reservoir with water before travelling. This idea had had detractors on the RMD model, one of the very reasons you are encountering, evaporation. With an open "dish or cup" on the RMD model there was also an issue with sloshing the water out during travel.

It looks like Dometic is addressing the empty reservoir issue with the condensation tube. Can there be a mod made on the RMD model that would make the cup more of a sealed unit?
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