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Old 08-19-2014, 10:08 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamman View Post
They are Atwood units:
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...%203.14.08.pdf

The wiring colors match the Atwood direct drive wires.

I *think* you have the correct wires. To at least partly verify this:
1) Voltage between the 2 you want should be 12V (bottom 2 - box 1)
2) Voltage between the corresponding ones on the other box should also be 12V (bottom 2 - box 2) and the polarity should be the same
3) Look at the front of the fuse box - you should have 1 or 2 fuses for the jacks.
IF 1 Remove it, voltages in steps 1 and 2 above should be 0
IF 2 - remove 1 - one set of voltages should be 0, the other should be 12, replace 1 and remove the other - the voltages should now be 12 and 0.

This is not a complete test but if it checks out I would go for it.

I suggest you plug the outlet directly to the spades (remove from switch noting which goes where) and see if the CPAP works.
Thanks - we'll work through this probably on Thursday...heading up to the top of Sandia Crest tomorrow to do our USFS volunteer thing....
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:56 PM   #52
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We just looked at the back of the fuse box...holy cow! Unless there is some magic way to get in there it looks like you have to disconnect a whole lot of scary stuff to get expose the back of the fuse box. We are exploring a tap off the landing gear wiring now. Will post pictures and questions in a few minutes.

Really easy to access 12 volt circuits on my panel. If your's is the same as the 19, take off the front cover and there they are. There are several unused spaces. From the back, push in and connect the wire you want to power up, put in a fuse of the correct size and you have a dedicated circuit, properly fused.

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Old 08-20-2014, 03:26 AM   #53
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As was stated earlier in the thread, voltage drop issues are frequently from wire size or connection issues.

I saw in post #30 of this thread that you had replaced the snap on connectors with wire nuts. That's not a good connection either. They tend to be worse in a mobile installation since they can work loose. For good connections try this advice Marine Wire Termination Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com.

As for wire size, 14g may not be big enough. For example, a 14g wire with a load of 6.67 amps and a total length of 20 feet (10 from battery to outlet and 10 back) will loose approximately half a volt. As the batteries get used this becomes a bigger problem. A 10g wire will loose about a fifth of a volt in the same scenario. As you can see, wire size makes a huge difference.

I recommend you take the advice from several people and run a dedicated circuit from the fuse box. Ron suggested a way to do that in his last post.

Measure how long a wire you need (for the round trip), find an online voltage drop calculator and put the numbers in. Decide how big a drop you can tolerate. I suggest 5% is too much and you might want to try for 2% or 3% (or less if your machine is finicky about voltage). That will tell you how big a wire you need.

A marine supply store should be able to sell you some high quality wire, connectors, and a fuse. The folks who sell it by the foot may be a better deal than a big spool of the stuff. The marine stuff is usually of better quality than the average auto parts store will carry. That equates to better performance and more corrosion resistance. Since a long term source of problems is corrosion at the connections this will help keep it trouble free for a long time.
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Old 08-20-2014, 08:22 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Really easy to access 12 volt circuits on my panel. If your's is the same as the 19, take off the front cover and there they are. There are several unused spaces. From the back, push in and connect the wire you want to power up, put in a fuse of the correct size and you have a dedicated circuit, properly fused.

Ron
Thanks Ron - we will examine our fuse box and see if there is a way to take off the front panel. We were leery of taking too much stuff apart! If we can get in there and run a dedicated line that would be a big help...we think we have a route for running the wiring to the loft. Probably can't get to it till tomorrow....
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:32 AM   #55
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The wire to the fridge in my 19 is 10 gauge. It is easily accessible from the outside vent opening. This wire connects to a terminal block on the fridge but on mine the block was out of reach. )
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:44 AM   #56
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Myron,
Why did you not use one of these to join your wires?
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:58 AM   #57
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I looked around but could not find one for 10 gauge and the job would not wait.
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:09 AM   #58
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Myron,
Why did you not use one of these to join your wires?
We initially used those on our wiring project and found that the voltage dropped more with them than with the screw cap connections so we replaced them with the crew cap...still not enough but at least the phone charger works now.
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:52 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Myron,
Why did you not use one of these to join your wires?
I have rewired several cars and Hot Rods and these kind of connectors go in the garbage. These connectors are designed to pierce the insulation, hopefully make contact with the conductor without severing some of the strands on the main circuit. Use the connectors that WestEnder recommends. Add extra shrink tubing to protect the connection - there is a moisture resistant type available. If you are unsure about adding a circuit to your fuse panel get a professional to do that part. You can still run the circuits. Regarding the connections at the landing gear I believe that my trailer has in line fuses a that location. You should be able to tap into the incoming lead at the fuse. Good luck.

PS. If you tap into a hot circuit other than at your fuse panel be sure to add an in line fuse.
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:13 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GerriJ View Post
PS. If you tap into a hot circuit other than at your fuse panel be sure to add an in line fuse.
This is only needed if the branch circuit you add is of a smaller conductor size, otherwise the fuse at the panel will provide adequate protection.

I do use those connectors that Jim linked to, only for really low amperage draws, and always use dielectric grease, and tape the connection after. I also only use them inside, in protected areas.

A proper soldered joint covered with a heat shrink can't be beaten though.
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