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Old 07-21-2015, 06:18 PM   #1
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Battery circuit question

Hi,

We destroyed our 7-way pigtail plug over the weekend and have it replaced with a new one at a repair shop. We took off as soon as we found that all driving signal lights are functional. However, we got home and unhitched and found that we have no power from the batteries -- no lights, the GoPower panel is out, even the indicator light on the propane detector is out. We figure something may have short circuited during the cut-and-splice of the plug.

Everything work when plugged into A/C power, though.

I checked the battery fuse and it's intact. I double, triple checked the disconnect switch and made sure it's on. And yet, nothing.

I have, however, located the inline breaker behind the battery cut-off switch. It COULD have been the problem. Does anyone know if it is the auto-resetting kind? If so, does anyone know how long does it take to reset if it is tripped?

BTW we haven't ruled out the situation of a pair of drained batteries. The trailer is now plugged into A/C power (charging??) and we'll see if that helps in a few hours.

The shop that made the repair is almost 2-hour drive away and we are hoping we don't have to make the trip if possible. Meanwhile, we are trying to learn as much as possible.

Interesting finding: when I pulled the fuse out of the battery, everything inside seem to function perfectly on A/C power. However, when I flipped the disconnect switch while on A/C, the lights work but the GoPower panel would be out. So it seems to me that disabling the battery (pulling the fuse) is different from disconnecting the battery (flipping the switch) but I am not sure how.

Thanks!
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:09 PM   #2
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The breaker is self resetting - but I know of at least 2 trailers it went bad on. See No 12 volt power: solution found

Disconnect one side and use an ohmmeter to check for continuity across it. Or just go to an auto parts store and get another one.
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:21 PM   #3
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You should start by measuring the voltage on the batteries. A cheap volt meter will work. In the 7 way plug there is a wire which can charge the battery if your vehicle is set up for it. If memory serves, the battery disconnect cuts off the fuse panel, but the breaker feeds are not affected.
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:35 PM   #4
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If the repair shop is close and the failure occured immediately after the pigtail replacement, you may want to contact them and have them diagnose the problem. Guessing rarely solves problems. My instructors called guessing "wiji board diagnostics". Regretably we do not have basic wiring diagrams to implement a systematic diagnostic approach.
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Old 07-21-2015, 08:16 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Jubal View Post
Regretably we do not have basic wiring diagrams to implement a systematic diagnostic approach.
Yes, that's a real negative for trouble shooting, even my Scamp had a usable schematic.

One quick thing you can do is: remove the complete panel cover. It's only held on by two machine screws. Have you checked the two 40 amp fuses? Also, measure the voltage at the two large wires in the upper left and see if battery voltage is reaching that point. Ignore the screwdriver.

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Old 07-21-2015, 08:35 PM   #6
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Do you have and know how to use a multimeter? would make things easier by checking battery voltage, verify fuses and the resettable breaker.
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:50 PM   #7
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We have a multimeter stowed somewhere and can do some measuring later tonight.

By process of elimination and some assumption, we are guessing that the GoPower is connected between the inline breaker and the disconnect switch, and assuming we have a bad inline breaker (which connect straight to the battery), which would explain why the GoPower would work on A/C even when I pulled the fuse off the battery (the converter is supplying power) but NOT when we disconnect from the disconnect switch (which it needs 12V from battery but get nothing).

We would measure the inline breaker first and see. If it is sound, we would proceed to measure other connections.

We checked all fuses on the power panel and they are all intact.

I heard that chance of inline breaker failing is really rare. If it indeed is the problem, it would have been a faulty unit since it should have reset...

I have been wanting to know what is the max battery output is. Now see that both the fuse and the inline breaker are 50A, it amount to about 600W than?

Thanks all!
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Old 07-21-2015, 10:07 PM   #8
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You may also have shorted out the 12 VDC coming from your battery when you destroyed
your 7 pin cord cap . When the dealer replaced the 7 pin cord cap ,the damage may have already been done. With your trailer disconnected from both shore power and your tow vehicle , I would check for DC voltage at your battery . If 12 VDC is present at your battery then I would check for 12 VDC at your converter. If there is no power at the converter then the problem is between the battery and the converter. If there is 12 VDC power at the converter from the battery then the problem is probably in the converter. The only other problem I can think of is if the dealer misconnected the 7 pin pigtail and when you plugged your trailer into your tow vehicle there was reversed polarity on the 12 VDC supply wires .
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Old 07-21-2015, 10:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Yes, that's a real negative for trouble shooting, even my Scamp had a usable schematic.
If Escape Trailer Industries were as inflexible and static as Eveland's (the maker of Scamp), there would probably be Escape schematics, too

Seriously, I agree that it would be easier with the right documentation. We're spoiled by mass-production items that documented to the smallest detail.
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Old 07-21-2015, 10:14 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by akoaoka View Post
By process of elimination and some assumption,

I have been wanting to know what is the max battery output is. Now see that both the fuse and the inline breaker are 50A, it amount to about 600W than?
My main rule for trouble shooting is: Never assume anything. Check things down the line methodically.

There's a difference between what the maximum battery output is at the panel and at the battery. For example, my inverter is 3000 watts and runs directly from the batteries, not the panel.

Ron
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