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Old 10-05-2014, 12:11 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by TheLonePine View Post
Thanks everyone for your helpful and speedy replies. So in case you are interested here is what we have decided to do (so far!). Add the storage box, go for the removable cord, and add in the spray insulation, but not the pads. We decided not to add the pads as we rarely use hookups and we thought we would be safer draining the system by October and managing without fresh water in the tank. We have done this with our current trailer up until now.
Smart choices. That is exactly what we did.
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:40 PM   #22
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After reading this thread, I have decided to add the heat pads as I will be using the trailer up to the first of November. I go up to east central Iowa to farm in the spring and fall and you can get a pretty good cold snap there. In my business here, I have dealt with to much frozen plumbing and it is time consuming and expensive. Also will probably need a 50 ft. cord but I suppose you could find one in a place like Camping World, etc. We will be getting the storage box mainly as a rock guard for the front of the trailer but per my advice, you can always use more room. Also sounds like an upgrade with the sewer hose will be happening. The great thing about this forum is you learn from everyone else as they have gone through this before you. When you learn from others, the tuition is a lot cheaper than learning by trial and error. So a huge thanks to everyone who posts here. I'm still taking this all in. Now if this fridge situation could get solved. Loren
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Old 10-05-2014, 03:10 PM   #23
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Location: Arvada, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLonePine View Post
We decided not to add the pads as we rarely use hookups and we thought we would be safer draining the system by October and managing without fresh water in the tank. We have done this with our current trailer up until now.
I skipped the heat pads due to their rather high power requirements (100W per pad was my understanding). Too much for an ordinary battery supply when boondocking.

However, I worried about the various pipes that are below the floor, as they would have very little thermal mass. On the E-21, I noted about 4 to 5 feet of exposed (before spray insulation) hot and cold pipes running from the bed to the kitchen. ETI has agreed to install some low voltage heat tape if I supply. Here is a link that may prove useful.

http://www.heatline.com/pdfs/kompensator_manual.pdf

I currently have placed a request for a price quote.

The grey and black tanks can be treated to a little RV antifreeze easily enough if freezing conditions are expected. The fresh water tank should be fine if a portion of the day is above freezing and if the trailer is heated. In an extreme case, you can add your favorite fresh water antifreeze - Jim Beam or even Aberfeldy 21yr Single Malt Scotch, Speyside, if you're particular.

--
Alan
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Old 10-05-2014, 04:23 PM   #24
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Thanks Alan,
this is very helpful and we will think about the low voltage heat tapes. Cask Proof Talisker may be the best freshwater tank antifreeze, though it would be a shame to dilute it too much!
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Old 10-05-2014, 04:54 PM   #25
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: Escape 17B, April 2014
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For us, the heat pads are a vital addition. When not in use, the trailer sits in our driveway. In the month after we picked-up in April, and in the last several weeks, the heat pads have been turned on. Several nights have dropped below freezing, but all should be fine in the water department. We intend to use the trailer on any given weekend between early March & late October. By keeping it plugged in in the driveway, it can be ready to go at a moment's notice - we only intend to blow out the lines once per year.
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