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Old 02-06-2015, 11:25 PM   #11
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We still don't know if Yardsale has access to city water.
When I de-winterize, I attach hose to city water and open the relief valve to ensure the tank is full.
If that can be done, we will at least know the tank is full.
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Old 02-06-2015, 11:25 PM   #12
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Opening the tap ensures the tank and waterlines will be free of air. I'm not a fan of opening the PRV to act as a pruge valve etc. It's my belief that if the tank contains some contaminates such as rust particles then the PVR seat may become contaminated and never seal as well as when it was new.

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Old 02-06-2015, 11:28 PM   #13
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It's what Reace told me to do, and it's equipped with a handle so you can do that.
I think if the seat does become contaminated, there are simple ways to deal with that.
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Old 02-06-2015, 11:55 PM   #14
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Thanks for all your responses. I will digest them in the morning but am hopeful now that someone has reminded me that there may be nothing to "burn out" in this propane only system.
Do have full hookups.
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Old 02-07-2015, 12:17 AM   #15
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Having full hookups, I'd start from scratch. Connect to city water, ensure the tank is full, press the reset button(s), and give it another shot. Worked for my buddy.
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Old 02-07-2015, 11:52 AM   #16
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Success. Per the advice I received here, I opened the relief valve to determine the tank was full. Then opened the kitchen sink taps to purge the air there. Before I had just purged the lines in the bathroom and the pump worked constantly against the air still in the line closer to the pump. Next I hit the reset button on the heater itself, after which the heater started and appears to be running normally. Wish it would get a little colder than the 36F so I can see how robust the system is. I think the weak link might be the line to the toilet as that line appears to run between the outside wall and the bathroom insert. Although it is within the heated space, it will be hard to get enough heat out there in really cold temps. The good news is the lines and joints are PEX which can freeze without breaking.

Thanks again to those of you who responded.
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Old 02-07-2015, 12:24 PM   #17
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I hope you are headed for someplace warmer soon, or you'll have to drain that water heater tank and winterize again.
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Old 02-07-2015, 02:30 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
The advantage of using the city water is you have pressure and can open the pressure relief valve to release air and ensure that the tank is full.
The unlimited supply of water from a city water hose is great, but even with the tank and pump you have pressure. That's what turns the pump on and off: it runs until it hits a set pressure and stops, and restarts as required to maintain that pressure

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Originally Posted by Floating Cloud View Post
In other words, yardsale, the pump will not fill the hot water tank with no taps open. I would not assume that the hot water tank is full just because the pump was making some noise. You need to run water...
I agree - running water right through to a faucet is required to ensure the water heater tank is purged of air. Purging every section of piping avoids building pressurized air pockets in the piping.
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Old 02-07-2015, 03:46 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yardsale View Post
Success. Per the advice I received here, I opened the relief valve to determine the tank was full. Then opened the kitchen sink taps to purge the air there. Before I had just purged the lines in the bathroom and the pump worked constantly against the air still in the line closer to the pump. Next I hit the reset button on the heater itself, after which the heater started and appears to be running normally. Wish it would get a little colder than the 36F so I can see how robust the system is. I think the weak link might be the line to the toilet as that line appears to run between the outside wall and the bathroom insert. Although it is within the heated space, it will be hard to get enough heat out there in really cold temps. The good news is the lines and joints are PEX which can freeze without breaking.

Thanks again to those of you who responded.
We camped in 20 degree weather last month, the water heater worked great and so did the furnace. It kept us warm all night. If you have the duel water heater, you can run it on both electric and gas at the same time to get hot water very quickly.
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Old 02-07-2015, 04:12 PM   #20
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Just a reminder for you folks with propane/electric water heaters. Make sure the switch for the electric (behind the outside access door to the water heater) is off when there is no water in the heater. After you are sure there is water in the heater (using the pressure relief valve mentioned above) you may flip that switch to on. Here is a great video if you need to replace the element:
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