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Old 02-12-2014, 12:02 AM   #51
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Myron, it's always a shame to hide beauty! It would be nicer if the Remote connector wasn't on the front of the unit though.
Tom
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Old 02-12-2014, 02:42 AM   #52
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Nice set up John, is the battery vented outside?
Yes, the battery is vented to the outside through the rear wall of the trailer. This was the standard dual 6V installation for the Escape 5.0.

I had considered moving the batteries to the rear bumper like on some Escape models. This would reduce the pin weight and free up some storage space. But I don’t really need the space, and I like maintaining clean, rather than mud covered batteries. I’ll evaluate the pin weights with the new Frontier, but if it worked for the Ranger, I’m sure it’ll be fine.

Cheers,
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:43 AM   #53
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And if a donut gets eaten what happens to its hole? This is a valid question much applicable to the quandary at hand. Thing is, if I do cut that big opening a point easily made is the remote will not be needed, nor will a hole for an on/off switch, the duplex, or the USB. So which be the lesser weevil?
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:54 AM   #54
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And if a donut gets eaten what happens to its hole? This is a valid question much applicable to the quandary at hand. ...
Not sure about New Mexico, but here in Alberta there is a recycling program for donut holes. Just toss them into a clear plastic bag after you eat the donut and put the bag out on the street on recycling day. My understanding is that they are collected and sanitized, and then resorted by size and sold back to the donut manufacturers for re-use.
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:09 AM   #55
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Not sure about New Mexico, but here in Alberta there is a recycling program for donut holes. Just toss them into a clear plastic bag after you eat the donut and put the bag out on the street on recycling day. My understanding is that they are collected and sanitized, and then resorted by size and sold back to the donut manufacturers for re-use.
What an amazingly efficient system.
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:42 AM   #56
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And if a donut gets eaten what happens to its hole?
Timbits!
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:19 PM   #57
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... So... now conducting internal debate on wisdom of making a change to original plan shown, (re: opening post). Should I cut an opening 7 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall, on the wood face beside the converter and poke xantrex’s nose through it? I hate doing any stuff to this trailer that is not reversible, but…. ...what would you do?
I installed the 1000 watt version of the same inverter. I ordered custom length cables from GenuindealZ. Since I have the detachable power cord option, I had lots of room under the seat & placed the inverter there. I have the remote to turn it off & on, and rather than using a transfer switch, added a new receptacle that is powered by the inverter. While I can no longer see the LED panel, I have a TriMetric 2025 Battery Monitor, which tells me everything the LED would. It also precludes cutting a big hole in the face of the storage area.

On the 12V side, I also added a 150 amp catastrophe fuse near the batteries, and a 200 amp switch at the inverter.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:38 PM   #58
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Ah, thank you Jon for that info. Today had a great visit with Dave in Corrales. He showed me his 19's factory installed inverter. It's pos/neg wires go through a hole in the floor direct to the battery and runs a remote display on on dinette bench. Totally independent, no association with converter.

This now is what think I will do. Liking isolating the inverter ....cut the big hole and poke the Xantrex through it, eliminating all redundant duplications.

What gauge wire did you connect to your battery? My users manual says, "Use 4 AWG copper as the smallest battery cable size." Yet on the same page, in Table 1, it clearly says, "Note: Xantrex recommends a size 0 cable...." "...for a minimal Voltage drop per foot." (0.0060 with the 600 inverter.) (...what the &*%#@ !!)

Now, in the wire department at Home Depot today, I find size 0 cable is near as thick as my pinkie and stiff enough to use for re-bar. Forget about buying an in-line 85 amp fuse, which Xantrex recommends. The nearest fuse to that size looks like a stick of dynamite.

I bought 8 feet of 4 AWG copper cable. Then stopped on the way home at Pep Brothers and got an inline AGU fuseholder which takes the #4 wire, and a 50 Amp AGU-LittleFuse, all evidently meant for audio equipment.

Am I ok?
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:09 PM   #59
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First question is whether or not the wire can handle the power without melting. The first chart I found (google is your friend) says 4 AWG is good for 60A power transmission. For your 600W inverter, you need 50A (50A x 12v = 600W).

The second question, is can the wire handle the power without dropping voltage so much that it gives your inverter problems. The first voltage drop calculator I found says 12v over 8 feet of 4AWG wire at 50A will have a voltage drop of 0.2V. Given your voltage will vary a lot more than that as your battery charges and discharges, it shouldn't be a problem for your inverter.

Sounds like you're good to go.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:07 PM   #60
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wire4a.jpgNo melting! Have not cut the hole in the plywood face yet. Decided better make certain the thing works first. Hoo-Hah, re: see that close up of voltage display?
Connected the inverter pos and neg wires to corresponding poles serving behind the converter. Keeps them nice and short. A grounding wire from inverter goes to a 5/16ths bolt that anchors the floor to the frame.
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File Type: jpg wire1c.jpg (126.8 KB, 25 views)
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