Fridge stopped working.. Any Thoughts?

[hollyt]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Holly, sometimes a small fan will be placed in the airspace behind the fridge that vents to the roof or upper outer wall, in order to create more airflow and aid the fridge in cooling. The fans are often used where the ambient temps are hotter, like Texas, so they're sometimes called a Texas fan. I'm assuming the "interior fridge fan" on the options sheet is the same thing.

There are also small fans available that go inside the fridge, but this would not be the same thing.

In the 2nd Gen Escapes with the Dometic Americana fridges, you will get better cooling than my Dometic RMD 8 series. So, the fan may not be necessary.

If it's still offered as an option however, I'd probably get it. Can't hurt.

Thank you rbryan4.

[cpaharley2008]

I believe Escape is no longer installing the Texas fan (exterior) any more due to the fusible link issues in the larger Americana and suggests it not be used in the smaller Americana while in transit. I have turned mine off and plan to leave it that way.
The optional interior fan is a battery operated ("D" battery) that is supposed to help cool down the interior quicker by moving the air around inside the unit. Not sure these work or not.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I believe Escape is no longer installing the Texas fan (exterior) any more due to the fusible link issues in the larger Americana and suggests it not be used in the smaller Americana while in transit. I have turned mine off and plan to leave it that way.

Is the fusible link issue still not resolved? To my mind that's a safety feature that you wouldn't want to bypass indefinitely.

[cpaharley2008]

AFAIK they stopped blowing when the fan was not being used. Thus the decision not to install them in the larger units.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

AFAIK they stopped blowing when the fan was not being used. Thus the decision not to install them in the larger units.

If that's the case, a fan could still be used if it didn't get it's power from the fridge. On a separate circuit, it wouldn't affect the fusible link at all.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

If that's the case, a fan could still be used if it didn't get it's power from the fridge. On a separate circuit, it wouldn't affect the fusible link at all.

I do not believe it was an electrical issue, but the fan was causing turbulence causing overheating causing the link to blow.

[ReagentGrade]

My Turn for a Fridge Malfunction

I have a 2017 5.0 TA (Jackie's Escape). The fridge (model DM2663LBX) worked well from pickup on 9/7 until I got home in early November. I have a Texas fan but have never used it.

I arrived at the Quartzsite Gathering late yesterday evening (2/7). I reviewed the fridge temps and saw that there had been no cooling during the drive. (I have SensorPush devices in the fridge and freezer; I can see the current temps and history.) Earlier days of this trip showed the same issue with no cooling on propane. Both AC and DC cool great.

When I left Deming NM this morning (where I had an electric hookup) the freezer was -3 degrees; when I arrived at Qsite, it was +26 degrees. (All temperatures are in Fahrenheit.). The fridge had gone from 35 to 56. Yikes! I'm planning an extended trip into Baja, my freezer is full and I REALLY my fridge.

By 3:30 AM, the freezer was 30 and the fridge 58. I turned on DC and it immediately started to cool.

I began searching this forum and found this thread. I had seen it earlier, but have not been active recently. I went out to look for the thermal reset button. I found it and pushed it. It clicked! I assumed those meant that it had been activated. I hoped this meant propane cooling would work again. I switched the fridge back to propane and the temp started rising. No Joy! I switched it back to DC.

By 8:15 the freezer was down to 6 and the fridge was down to 50. Unfortunately, my batteries were down to 33% charge. They're lithium batteries so they're not damaged, but I can't keep this up. Hopefully my 320 Watts of roof top solar will charge them back up.

I checked the Dometic website and it shows three authorized service centers in Qsite and one in Blythe.

I called one of the local service centers - RV Lifestyles (just down Dome Rock road). They told me that ETI is responsible for warrantee issues during the first year and Dometic after that. I hadn't seen this on this forum, maybe I missed it.

I'm waiting for ETI to open so I can consult with them.

I'll keep you posted.

[Tin]

Hi ReagentGrade,
Have you verified if the burner is working ?
If the burner is not working, and you are suspecting the thermal fuse is blown try resetting thermal disk attached to heat shield. if this does not work bypass the thermal fuse diode in red wire with a jumper wire. Make sure to turn off electrical shut off switch first, apply jumper across diode in thermal fuse wire then turn frig on. hope this helps
Tin.

[Tin]

couple of pics, attach jumper wire across diode in second pic. good luck.
if you do not have a jumper wire, as a last resort cut off diode and twist the two wire together and tape.

[Tin]

If you need help Iam sure some of the escape experts there at Quartz will help and some might even have a spar thermal fuse ( red dog has gone though 3 of them) and is probably a bypass expert .

[ReagentGrade]

Hi Tin,

I don't see any evidence of the burner working. Would it be obvious? I removed the outer (flat) heat shield and tested the thermal disk. It read as being closed. Is closed is the condition needed for correct operation? It usually is.

I'm still looking for the thermal diode in the shrink wrap.

[gbaglo]

Local RV shop serviced my Dometic 2510.
Bench tested, reinstalled. I took it home and it wouldn't work.
Replaced the igniter and we're back in business.

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by ReagentGrade

My Turn for a Fridge Malfunction

I have a 2017 5.0 TA (Jackie's Escape). The fridge (model DM2663LBX) worked well from pickup on 9/7 until I got home in early November. I have a Texas fan but have never used it.

I arrived at the Quartzsite Gathering late yesterday evening (2/7).................

Rich,
You might want to look up Ron from BC, there at Quartzsite, and attend his "Frig. Propane Oriface blockage" seminar.
Kidding aside, there should be quite a number of Escape owners there, with the experience to help you diagnose and fix the problem.

[ReagentGrade]

Reace called, he wanted a photo of the burner flame.

Although it's very small, there is a flame. If you enlarge the photo, you can just see three tiny peaks of flame, two on one side of the igniter wire, one on the other. There is probably a fourth behind the igniter wire. Each peak is about 1/16" tall. How big is the flame supposed to be?

[ReagentGrade]

Originally Posted by dfandrews

Rich,
You might want to look up Ron from BC, there at Quartzsite, and attend his "Frig. Propane Oriface blockage" seminar.
Kidding aside, there should be quite a number of Escape owners there, with the experience to help you diagnose and fix the problem.

Ron from BC, if you see this, I'm near the "entrance". I have a 5.0 TA with an "electric blue" F150 TV.
Rich
Seven won tree six too ate five ohh won fore

[Tin]

Originally Posted by ReagentGrade

Reace called, he wanted a photo of the burner flame.

Although it's very small, there is a flame. If you enlarge the photo, you can just see three tiny peaks of flame, two on one side of the igniter wire, one on the other. There is probably a fourth behind the igniter wire. Each peak is about 1/16" tall. How big is the flame supposed to be?

If your burner is on then it probably is not the thermal fuse.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by ReagentGrade

Reace called, he wanted a photo of the burner flame.

Although it's very small, there is a flame. If you enlarge the photo, you can just see three tiny peaks of flame, two on one side of the igniter wire, one on the other. There is probably a fourth behind the igniter wire. Each peak is about 1/16" tall. How big is the flame supposed to be?

Now the I can see the photo, I'd say the flame is at the low, idle level, not full, but as I mentioned when I was there, the heater chimney seems hot enough that the absorption cycle should be working. No idea what the problem is, although if that is the high flame, I'd look at cleaning the orifice.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by ReagentGrade

Each peak is about 1/16" tall. How big is the flame supposed to be?

Bigger than that, but I believe it changes based on the refrigerator setting. At least ours seems to on an older RM2510.

Look at this guys flame after cleaning burner...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ohA5nChtCs0

[Tin]

Yea just checked mine and took a pic, looks very brite and loud and hot!
you may have blockage or propane/regulator issues. good luck it sounds like helps is on the way.

[ReagentGrade]

Wow! Nice flame! Mine is definitely sub par.