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Old 03-15-2017, 06:31 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
To make you feel better, I just got a call from Toyota that my water pump is leaking and needs replacement. Parts and labour come to $1,010.78.
For that amount, I think I would change it myself. Water pumps are generally not that expensive. It must be "buried" and they are charging you a lot of labor.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:31 PM   #22
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To fill the water heater, I connect to city water and open pressure relief valve ( top, centre of pic ) until water comes spurting out for a while. Allows air to be expelled and is visual indicator that it is full.
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File Type: jpg anode relief valve open.jpg (172.0 KB, 36 views)
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:34 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Mucram View Post
Thanks Carl. I'm @ home & filled fresh water tank. How does the hot water tank get filled?
Hook it up to city water, turn the water on, and open the hot water faucet. When it stops spitting and coughing and you have a good stream, the hot water tank will be filled. Disconnect city water and try the pump again.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:37 PM   #24
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Thanks Glen. Will try that. Still doesn't explain why cold not flowing with full tank either. Might I have a faulty pump?
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:38 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
To fill the water heater, I connect to city water and open pressure relief valve ( top, centre of pic ) until water comes spurting out for a while. Allows air to be expelled and is visual indicator that it is full.
Glenn, I have had pressure relief valves on water heaters start to leak if they were repeatedly operated, necessitating replacement. Perhaps you have never had this happen, but I always open the hot water faucet whether filling or draining rather than the relief valve.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:43 PM   #26
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My trailer is eight years old so not sure about my advice here.
If somehow, debris got into the faucet aerator, the water pump won't work. It operates like a gas pump. When it senses back pressure, it shuts down. Debris in the aerator can do that.
I'd unscrew the aerator and take it apart carefully, noting what goes where, and clear it of any debris blocking the screen.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:45 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
Glenn, I have had pressure relief valves on water heaters start to leak if they were repeatedly operated, necessitating replacement. Perhaps you have never had this happen, but I always open the hot water faucet whether filling or draining rather than the relief valve.
Yup, I've had a drip, but I don't think that's from operating the valve. My advice was based on info I got from Reace.
Advantage is you don't fill your grey tank.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:50 PM   #28
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So remember I'm new to the finer rv things like hot water heaters. Pretend you're teaching a newbie. I had an 89 scamp w pump so it worked or didn't. Never have had a brand new trailer 700+ miles away from manufacturer. Sad with window issues & now pump issue.
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:11 PM   #29
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Thanks Glen. Will try that. Still doesn't explain why cold not flowing with full tank either. Might I have a faulty pump?
Dumb question, but have you turned on the water pump?
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:39 PM   #30
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If your trailer has the winterization option there is valve and a clear plastic hose near the pump input. If the valve points to the plastic hose it will suck air ( The hose is used for antifreeze pick up.) and it will not let you pull water out of your fresh water tank. My valve was hidden behind the pipe and hard to see.
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