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Old 12-02-2014, 03:05 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Okay, so if I tap into an existing 12v source (extra 12v socket under dinette) and run a hot switched wire wire to the brown tail lite wire and then throw the switch, all the lights will come on?
Only if the negative to the lights shares a ground with the trailer battery, otherwise you would need to connect the negative too (not certain about this). Still, a very bad idea, in my opinion.
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Old 12-02-2014, 03:08 PM   #12
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With only one hot wire, no other wire, and all the exterior lights, not just that one, will come on? Neat and simple to do. Just have to remember to turn off before hooking up.....eeekkk
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Old 12-02-2014, 03:09 PM   #13
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Maybe I'll just run a spare light out the rear and put on a switch, for simplicity sake.
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Old 12-02-2014, 03:23 PM   #14
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Why not do a setup like Don shows, and add a switch on long leads to it, which you could bring inside after plug it in?

Or, bring those big pups of yours. An intruder would not know whether they were mean or not, and flee quite quickly.
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Old 12-02-2014, 03:29 PM   #15
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My big pups would lick you to death....... I'll figure something, I got one of those magnet lights I can just put on the bumper, not sure if it will still be there the next am though.
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Old 12-02-2014, 03:36 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
Only if the negative to the lights shares a ground with the trailer battery, otherwise you would need to connect the negative too (not certain about this).
Right, but the negative of the battery is definitely tied to the frame, as well as to the negative side of all coach (rather than vehicle) circuits. At the same time, the negative from the tug must be tied to the negative of the trailer's battery (directly or via the frame) or the tug would be unable to charge the trailer battery. Thus, the negative of the vehicle lights (on both trailer and tug) must tie to the negative of the trailer battery.

I do share Jim Bennett's concern about connecting the tug and trailer batteries through a lighting circuit.
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Old 12-02-2014, 06:26 PM   #17
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If I am reading this correctly, the desire is to power the trailer's tail lights using trailer battery power, when stopped. If I am incorrect, please ignore the rest of my post below.

If you install a normally closed relay on the feed from the tow vehicle, when current from the TV flows through the relay it would go to the open position. If the relay is used to control the hot line to the switch inside the trailer, the switch circuit from the trailer battery to the brown wire would be inactivated when power is coming from the tow vehicle because the switch circuit would be opened by the relay, effectively cutting flow from the trailer battery to the lights. Adding a diode (allows flow to move only in one direction) in front of the relay would prevent battery current from flowing to the tow vehicle. This type of set-up would prevent any "accidents" yet would be "automatic" and available for immediate use, and you remain connected (for ground). The parts required are not terribly expensive.
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Old 12-02-2014, 06:38 PM   #18
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On the 19 the 7 pin wiring harness goes inside to a 4" metal box located under the dinette seat. The connections to the trailer lights etc. are there. It would be very simple to run a wire from the + wire normally supplying juice while underway to a switch and then to the wire for the running lights. They are already grounded.

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Old 12-02-2014, 06:50 PM   #19
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Right Ron, not sure where on the 21 the box is, maybe under the bed.
Yes I understand, Carl, a safety diode/relay to prevent damage caused by me inadvertently hooking up while my battery is powering the lights. I may have to p/m you for advice on that later, if I decide to go that route.
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Old 12-02-2014, 07:47 PM   #20
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, not sure where on the 21 the box is, maybe under the bed.
.
The box is properly called a junction box. The 7 pin cable wires make their connection to the trailer wires in it. It is likely located just inside the area where the 7 pin cable enters the trailer.

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