Lithium Ready 2023- Battery Installation

[DanK]

Originally Posted by SRS

Hi DanK, If you don't mind sharing, what did you order? That's what I'm still trying to confirm before I order.

Also, Mine is a 2022 model and they may have changed what they install since then. My 17A was the first one they built with the lithium package, so they may have just been installing what they had around and typically installed for flooded batteries.

I ordered from Amazon, the blue sea system class t fuse holder and the matching 250amp class t fuse . Also ordered a battery switch to be able to turn off the solar panel when needed. I have a 2021 , 21 c . I'm installing a 2000 watt inverter which depending what source I read it needs a 200amp or 300amp fuse , I split the difference.

[SRS]

Originally Posted by DanK

I ordered from Amazon, the blue sea system class t fuse holder and the matching 250amp class t fuse . Also ordered a battery switch to be able to turn off the solar panel when needed. I have a 2021 , 21 c . I'm installing a 2000 watt inverter which depending what source I read it needs a 200amp or 300amp fuse , I split the difference.

Gotcha. The GoPower 1500 watt inverter recommends 200 amp so I think ETI put in too big (if that's the correct word) a fuse. I'm going to go with the GoPower recommendations.

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by SRS

Gotcha. The GoPower 1500 watt inverter recommends 200 amp so I think ETI put in too big (if that's the correct word) a fuse. I'm going to go with the GoPower recommendations.

That's what ours has as well, 200 amp fuse.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by SRS

Gotcha. The GoPower 1500 watt inverter recommends 200 amp so I think ETI put in too big (if that's the correct word) a fuse. I'm going to go with the GoPower recommendations.

Please remember as already stated, the fuse should be rated to the ampacity of the wire if that's less than what the inverter can handle.

I expect that a careful reading of GoPower's instructions describes the maximum fuse for protection of the inverter allowing it to deliver its full potential, assuming a wire of adequate ampacity.

Please confirm your wire (cable) ampacity, don't assume it's adequate just because it's what ETI installed.

[edlynnrich]

Thanks. I just wanted to make sure that a fuse wasn’t needed for each battery. Ed

[splitting_lanes]

Originally Posted by DanK

I ordered from Amazon, the blue sea system class t fuse holder and the matching 250amp class t fuse . Also ordered a battery switch to be able to turn off the solar panel when needed. I have a 2021 , 21 c . I'm installing a 2000 watt inverter which depending what source I read it needs a 200amp or 300amp fuse , I split the difference.

You’ll be good with a 250amp fuse. I’m using a 225 on my 1500w inverter, and I’d be wary about a 200a fuse on a 2000w inverter. You don’t want any phantom blows of an expensive class T fuse. I know I don’t carry an extra!

[SRS]

Originally Posted by Centex

Please remember as already stated, the fuse should be rated to the ampacity of the wire if that's less than what the inverter can handle.

I expect that a careful reading of GoPower's instructions describes the maximum fuse for protection of the inverter allowing it to deliver its full potential, assuming a wire of adequate ampacity.

Please confirm your wire (cable) ampacity, don't assume it's adequate just because it's what ETI installed.

Thanks Centex for the reminder. I'm going through the GoPower manual and then I'll measure the wire run to see if what I have is correct or not. I've also looked at other wiring charts and they are pretty consistent with GoPowers recommendations. With my Lithium batteries in the garage, now would be a good time to upgrade the wire if its necessary while installing the T fuse. Lots more room to work under the PS bench of my little trailer.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by SRS

.... I'm going through the GoPower manual and then I'll measure the wire run to see if what I have is correct or not. I've also looked at other wiring charts and they are pretty consistent with GoPowers recommendations. .....

Perhaps of interest there's the Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems for quick wire-gauge calculation. Note that the length of the wire entered is for the complete circuit (in your case the length of the (+) run from the battery through the fuse to the inverter plus the length of the (-) run from the inverter to your negative / ground post).

Have Fun!

[Read Newman]

What brand of lithium battery charger would you recommend? I have heard the NoCo chargers are one of the best out there but I still haven't had any experience with lithium charges so much.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Read Newman

... I have heard the NoCo chargers are one of the best out there but I still haven't had any experience with lithium charges so much.

Just FYI I have a NoCo Genius 10 which I use for AGM battery maintenance. It does have a lithium setting / multi-stage charging algorithm delivering up to 14.6V @10Amps, but carries a note that it's only suitable for up to 230AH batteries, so check to ensure that whatever charger you choose is designed for the capacity of your battery bank.

Like all NoCo units this is a portable charger of course, not intended for 'permanent' installation in an RV.

I use the converter/charger built-into my trailer for maintaining my RV lithium battery, in my case that's a Xantrex unit.

Happy shopping !

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Read Newman

What brand of lithium battery charger would you recommend? I have heard the NoCo chargers are one of the best out there but I still haven't had any experience with lithium charges so much.

Are you replacing the converter / power supply also or just getting a charger?
If your doing both Progressive Dynamics makes an affordable two stage converter charger for lithium. A stand alone possibility is a Victron Bluesmart ip22 at 30 amps. And the high end that would entail some rewiring is a Victron Multiplus one of the Xantrex products. Typical these combine inverter/converter/ /charger/and transfer switch. The 23 is using the victron 3000 multiplus (3000 va or around 2400 watts. Since you have the inverter already. The first one is the most affordable and an easy retro fit. Just make sure it’s one of the new ones with the two stage charging profile for litium. https://www.progressivedyn.com/lithi...acement-units/

[SRS]

Originally Posted by Read Newman

What brand of lithium battery charger would you recommend? I have heard the NoCo chargers are one of the best out there but I still haven't had any experience with lithium charges so much.

I've been using the Victron Blue Smart IP65 and it seems to work well and I like that it works with the Victron app.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

I've only used it once on my lithium batteries and that was after winter storage to getting them fully charged before reinstalling back in the trailer. The rest of the camping season I let my solar panels maintain them.
I've used IP65 more on my F-150 with an AGM battery. These modern cars/trucks have a lot of battery drain even when turned off and I don't drive it enough, sometimes only once a week. When the battery gets low, Ford sync goes into a sort of triage and shuts down less essential components. The Victron charger brought the battery back up to like new status and hasn't complained in nearly 2 weeks.

[John in Santa Cruz]

a NOCO Genius isn't really meant for permanent installation in an RV, its more a charger you'd hook up manually and plug in when you need to recharge a battery.

I replaced my 2014 vintage WFCO 8955 power center with a PD4655L, which outputs about 50A at up to 14.6V to charge my 412AH worth of lithium (2 x 12V 206AH in parallel).

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by splitting_lanes

You’ll be good with a 250amp fuse. I’m using a 225 on my 1500w inverter, and I’d be wary about a 200a fuse on a 2000w inverter. You don’t want any phantom blows of an expensive class T fuse. I know I don’t carry an extra!

I agree. When I bought my DIY kit from AM Solar they provided me a 250A T-class fuse with the 2000W Xantrex inverter/charger. They did provide an extra that I have zip-tied nearby.

[John in Santa Cruz]

If you have a load that draws 200A, you want your wiring to be safe well above that, and the fuse should split the difference. so something like 250A wiring with a 225A fuse, would be perfect.

I've currently got my 2 12V 206AH batteries wired in parallel, each with its own 150A fuse (300A total). these meet at the 250A rated bus bars, which is also where the 2000W truesine inverter is connected (along with Solar and everything else)

I did it that way because the heaviest cable and ring terminals I had handy were 4 AWG. And, the inverter was an afterthought.

I got the stuff to rewire it so the batteries are directly paralleled and go through a single 225A T fuse, I just haven't gotten around to ripping it all out and redoing it. It would probably take me a day. Maybe next fall.