Lithium Ready 2023- Battery Installation

[Simply Stu]

Hi Fellow Escapees,

I recently took possession of my new 2023 E19 which I purchased with the “lithium ready” option. I just bought two 12 V, 100Ah lithium batteries to replace the lead acid 12 V that came with the trailer. What do I need to worry about when installing the new lithiums? I have the two solar panels on the roof to charge the batteries. I’m not the most mechanically or electrically inclined and don’t want to wreck anything. Any help or suggestions of what I need to do to get the lithiums going will be appreciated.

Thank you in advance,
Stu

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by Simply Stu

Hi Fellow Escapees,

I recently took possession of my new 2023 E19 which I purchased with the “lithium ready” option. I just bought two 12 V, 100Ah lithium batteries to replace the lead acid 12 V that came with the trailer. What do I need to worry about when installing the new lithiums? I have the two solar panels on the roof to charge the batteries. I’m not the most mechanically or electrically inclined and don’t want to wreck anything. Any help or suggestions of what I need to do to get the lithiums going will be appreciated.

Thank you in advance,
Stu

A couple of things. Of course you probably already know you will be wiring your batteries in parallel so you will need cables the same gauge as your battery currently uses. You'll want to keep the batteries as close together as possible in order to keep the cables as short as possible. With lithium batteries they need to be balanced, which means they need to be as close to the same voltage as possible. I would read up and get educated because there are a lot of opinions out there. When I added two additional lithium batteries, I took all four batteries down to 60% and then brought them all back to 80% within .05v of each other as per the manufacturers instructions. Hooked them all up and charged the bank using the charge controller on our 5.0.

Others may have different methods or opinions.

[splitting_lanes]

I’d suggest a switch so you can turn your solar panels off when you’re not using your trailer.

Lithium batteries don’t have a slow discharge like lead acid, so there’s no need to keep charging them. Even though your charger will switch off, it still drives the voltage up every morning.

The easiest place to put the switch is on the solar panel positive lead going into the solar controller.

You should also install an appropriate sized class T fuse. This fuse will be sized for the wire. I used a 200 amp class T for 1 & 2 gauge wire. You’ll need some crimping tools to work with wire that size.

Here’s the class t I used, good price and it doesn’t need additional connectors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Perry Butler]

Does “Lithium Ready” mean your flooded lead acid batteries are located inside the camper.? If not, you’ll want to eventually move your batteries somewhere inside the camper for cold weather charging.

Once our SOK batteries reach shutoff (34 F) they won’t charge again until the temperature reaches 41 F. Last winter in Arizona that was a real problem and I had to move the batteries inside at Chiricahua National Monument. I was hoping it was a normal Arizona winter, but it wasn’t. However, I know low voltage, and had the tools needed to move the batteries.

However, if you never camp on successive days where the temps reach down to 34 F when our lithiums stop charging, with highs only in the 40’s, where our SOK lithiums start charging again, you’ll be fine.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Grasshog]

Originally Posted by Simply Stu

Hi Fellow Escapees,

I recently took possession of my new 2023 E19 which I purchased with the “lithium ready” option. I just bought two 12 V, 100Ah lithium batteries to replace the lead acid 12 V that came with the trailer. What do I need to worry about when installing the new lithiums? I have the two solar panels on the roof to charge the batteries. I’m not the most mechanically or electrically inclined and don’t want to wreck anything. Any help or suggestions of what I need to do to get the lithiums going will be appreciated.

Thank you in advance,
Stu

. If it will make you feel any better I am in the same boat but there’s lotta good information here. I actually met Rick splitting lanes he has a nice set up.

[Garry George]

Hi Stu. I am in the same boat (trailer, actually) as well. My Inventory 23 E19 is being delivered late Mar 24. I was wondering how the installation went.
There is so much information on the Internet and esp on this forum it makes your head spin with all the options. Also, the price of the components vary widely and I am not so sure higher cost always means better quality. So I am curious about how you made out and your choice of batteries, fuses, etc.
The major challenge I have now is that I don't have the trailer here so I am working off pictures and Escape's videos to assess available space and location of the various parts. But it is fun to plan this stuff on a cold winter night thinking about adventures ahead.

[KarenPDX]

I just added a 2nd Lithium battery to my 21C and I agree with all of the other posters.

I bought some Windy Nation 2/0 cables that where 9 inch long. 2/0 cables are recomended for battery to battery connection. They are much thicker than guage 2 cables. They worked perfect for connecting the batteries. I built a wooden frame to hold the batteries in place. It had a center rib to heep the batteries from touching and a handle that I mounted my shunt too. The top of the handle add’s a little more support to the seat boards as well. I hooked the shunt up to the negative terminal on Battery A and the postive lead(s) hooked to the positive terminal on battery B. This helps keep the load balenced. Take you time and police your loose leads so they don’t short together and you should be fine.

[DanK]

I am also adding a lithium battery to my lithium ready trailer. I will be putting a single 300ah battery in that is almost the same foot print as the original battery box. I am also adding a power transfer switch and 2000watt inverter to power the passenger side of the trailer. Splitting lanes mentions using a t fuse but the inverter instructions say to use an ANL fuse . The t fuse is quite pricey, is it that much safer ?

[splitting_lanes]

Originally Posted by DanK

I am also adding a lithium battery to my lithium ready trailer. I will be putting a single 300ah battery in that is almost the same foot print as the original battery box. I am also adding a power transfer switch and 2000watt inverter to power the passenger side of the trailer. Splitting lanes mentions using a t fuse but the inverter instructions say to use an ANL fuse . The t fuse is quite pricey, is it that much safer ?

A 300ah lithium battery can output more current than an ANL fuse can interrupt in a total failure situation, an estimated 12,000amps. I think ANL fuses are rated for 2700amp interrupt, but a Class T can interrupt 20,000amps.

If you want to protect your trailer from a total failure of the battery, you should install a class T fuse. The ANL fuse will protect you from some failure scenarios, but not a failure of the BMS inside the lithium battery.

[DanK]

Originally Posted by splitting_lanes

A 300ah lithium battery can output more current than an ANL fuse can interrupt in a total failure situation, an estimated 12,000amps. I think ANL fuses are rated for 2700amp interrupt, but a Class T can interrupt 20,000amps.

If you want to protect your trailer from a total failure of the battery, you should install a class T fuse. The ANL fuse will protect you from some failure scenarios, but not a failure of the BMS inside the lithium battery.

I'm wondering why the inverter manufacturer is recommending the 200amp fuse for the 2000watt inverter. They are not asking about battery amps . The 300ah battery has a 200amp bms . The inverter is a renogy pure sine wave 2000watt.

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by DanK

I'm wondering why the inverter manufacturer is recommending the 200amp fuse for the 2000watt inverter. They are not asking about battery amps . The 300ah battery has a 200amp bms . The inverter is a renogy pure sine wave 2000watt.

You don’t want to oversize this fuse. Wiring unlimited is a free resource from Victron. Read what they have to say. Then you have some scientific knowledge to make your choice. 200 amp bms I expect is peak output for a short duration. I’ll bet continuous is less.


I had to get an anl because t classes weren’t available
My next upgrade will replace it. My fuse connects to my busbar system that has sub fuses on various distributions of loads. Ymmv
Fuses protect wires. Just my opinion

[splitting_lanes]

Originally Posted by DanK

I'm wondering why the inverter manufacturer is recommending the 200amp fuse for the 2000watt inverter. They are not asking about battery amps . The 300ah battery has a 200amp bms . The inverter is a renogy pure sine wave 2000watt.

The fuse is to protect the wire. The inverter should have its own internal protection, and the battery has its internal protection. The class T fuse is capable of protecting the wire if the batteries internal protection fails.

An ANL fuse is sufficient for batteries with higher internal resistance, but for a very low resistance battery that has a significant amount of energy stored it is inadequate.

Here’s a short article, there’s plenty more if you look for them. Google class t fuse usages.

https://www.escapeelectrics.com.au/b...battery-setups

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by DanK

I'm wondering why the inverter manufacturer is recommending the 200amp fuse for the 2000watt inverter. They are not asking about battery amps . The 300ah battery has a 200amp bms . The inverter is a renogy pure sine wave 2000watt.

The inverter manufacturer is recommending a ANL fuse because up until now most batteries were not lithium. The ANL is more than adequate for a leaded battery. With the larger, potential output of lithium you want a properly sized T fuse to protect your wire, batteries, and electrical appliances.

Enjoy,

Perry

[DanK]

Thanks for the fuse clarification, guess I'll be purchasing a class t fuse today .

[Centex]

Originally Posted by DanK

Thanks for the fuse clarification, guess I'll be purchasing a class t fuse today .

Note that Class T fuses rated up to 200A are physically smaller than those rated 225A+. Important to ensure you get the correct fuse holder for the amp-rating you select.

Just FYI, this from the installation instructions for my Xantrex inverter/converter:

8. Install a fuse and fuse holder in the cable that will be used for
the positive side of the DC circuit. The fuse must:
a. be as close to the battery positive terminal as possible
b. be rated for DC circuits
c. have an Ampere Interrupting Capacity (AIC) that
exceeds the short-circuit current available from the
battery (that is, Class T fuse)

[SRS]

I have ETI's lithium package and for over a year I've been following these conversations on fuse types. I have the GoPower 1500W inverter and two 100AH lithium batteries. ETI installed a 250 amp ANL fuse between the batteries and the inverter. GoPower recommends a 200 amp fuse. I'd like to replace the ANL with a T fuse, and yes, I'm aware I'll need a new fuse holder. Would this GoPower or similar T fuse be appropriat?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015357R2...v_ov_lig_dp_it
And here is a South Bend:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQZ87RRG...lig_dp_it&th=1


Recommendations Welcome and thanks from someone who is still learning.

[DanK]

Thanks for sharing what eti supplied as a standard fuse for them . After reading the replies from fellow forum members who are far better versed in electronics then i
am i have ordered a class t fuse and holder . These are far more expensive than the ANL fuses but i have too big of an investment
in the trailer to cheap out on a fuse .

Originally Posted by SRS

I have ETI's lithium package and for over a year I've been following these conversations on fuse types. I have the GoPower 1500W inverter and two 100AH lithium batteries. ETI installed a 250 amp ANL fuse between the batteries and the inverter. GoPower recommends a 200 amp fuse. I'd like to replace the ANL with a T fuse, and yes, I'm aware I'll need a new fuse holder. Would this GoPower or similar T fuse be appropriat?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015357R2...v_ov_lig_dp_it
And here is a South Bend:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQZ87RRG...lig_dp_it&th=1


Recommendations Welcome and thanks from someone who is still learning.

[SRS]

Originally Posted by DanK

Thanks for sharing what eti supplied as a standard fuse for them . After reading the replies from fellow forum members who are far better versed in electronics then i
am i have ordered a class t fuse and holder . These are far more expensive than the ANL fuses but i have too big of an investment
in the trailer to cheap out on a fuse .

Hi DanK, If you don't mind sharing, what did you order? That's what I'm still trying to confirm before I order.

Also, Mine is a 2022 model and they may have changed what they install since then. My 17A was the first one they built with the lithium package, so they may have just been installing what they had around and typically installed for flooded batteries.

[edlynnrich]

Originally Posted by SRS

I have ETI's lithium package and for over a year I've been following these conversations on fuse types. I have the GoPower 1500W inverter and two 100AH lithium batteries. ETI installed a 250 amp ANL fuse between the batteries and the inverter. GoPower recommends a 200 amp fuse. I'd like to replace the ANL with a T fuse, and yes, I'm aware I'll need a new fuse holder. Would this GoPower or similar T fuse be appropriat?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015357R2...v_ov_lig_dp_it
And here is a South Bend:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQZ87RRG...lig_dp_it&th=1


Recommendations Welcome and thanks from someone who is still learning.

And a follow up to SRS: Are two type T fuses needed with the standard factory two lithium battery setup? Thanks

Ed

[SRS]

Originally Posted by edlynnrich

And a follow up to SRS: Are two type T fuses needed with the standard factory two lithium battery setup? Thanks

Ed

No expert here but there is a single line from my battery bank that goes to the fuse and then the inverter so I was only planning to replace the one ANL with a T fuse. Since I'm electrically challenged, but learning, I'm certainly open to being corrected.