New 21 A/C experiment Honda 2000i - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 09-15-2014, 11:06 PM   #11
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And here we go again !! ROFLMAO

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Old 09-16-2014, 05:37 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
Honda 2000i started & ran the A/C with hardly a burp compared to the unit I had on my Casita. Did the trial 5 times for 2 days and no problem at 700 ft elevation.

I did have to turn the EMS system off to make it work as it detected an open ground - I didn't jumper the frame and generator together electrically.

Good news for boondocking hot places!
Charlie,

Do you have the standard AC that escape is putting on the 21? Our pickup is the 29th!
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Old 09-16-2014, 06:33 AM   #13
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I remember ETI putting a soft start capacitor kit in the 11,500btu units a couple of years ago, perhaps they are standard now. This will enable the 2000 watt units to operate the a/c.
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:04 AM   #14
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Charlie,

Do you have the standard AC that escape is putting on the 21? Our pickup is the 29th!
Yes, regular version with the digital thermostat. Cycled on/off with no problems.
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:01 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
Honda 2000i started & ran the A/C with hardly a burp compared to the unit I had on my Casita. Did the trial 5 times for 2 days and no problem at 700 ft elevation.

I did have to turn the EMS system off to make it work as it detected an open ground - I didn't jumper the frame and generator together electrically.

Good news for boondocking hot places!
Your trailer and generator ground should be connected through the cord. Your trailer converter chasis should be bonded to the trailer frame too. My Honda EU2000I has a earth lug that can be attached to a ground rod or plumbing pipe to provide a path to ground.

Russ
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:11 PM   #16
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Grounding the generator won't fix the EMS problem. Most EMS look for the ground/neutral bond that is usually made at the service entrance (or an on board generator) to determine that there is a good ground. Since small 120V generators are not required to bond the ground to the neutral (technically, they don't have a neutral) the EMS thinks there is an open ground & shuts off. In a small, 120V generator, it is acceptable (and OK with the NEC) to use the frame of the generator as the ground but not connect it to the neutral.

While there are a number of solutions, the easiest thing to do is to make up a bonding plug (attach a piece of wire between the neutral (silver screw) and ground (green screw) in a male connector) & plug it into one side of the receptacle on the generator.

As to whether a small 120V generator should be bonded, that is an argument that goes on forever. In many ways, an unbonded generator is safer than one that has a bond. If you want some useful facts, check out this PDF.
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:12 PM   #17
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Honda now makes the 2000ia model that has a 30 amp recepticle. Sounds like a perfect fit for my up coming 5.0TA.

Doug
Doug,
I have a 2 year old Honda 2000 "Companion" model generator. It is meant to pair with a EU2000i which gives 30a capability. It has a 30a labeled receptacle which confuses people into thinking it can put out 30 amps on its own. It can't do that.
The one you speak of may be different than mine. I have never tried to run the AC on just one generator, but it works perfectly with the 2 paralleled. Also it is a lot easier to move two 2000 watt generators than one 3500.
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
Grounding the generator won't fix the EMS problem. Most EMS look for the ground/neutral bond that is usually made at the service entrance (or an on board generator) to determine that there is a good ground. Since small 120V generators are not required to bond the ground to the neutral (technically, they don't have a neutral) the EMS thinks there is an open ground & shuts off. In a small, 120V generator, it is acceptable (and OK with the NEC) to use the frame of the generator as the ground but not connect it to the neutral.

While there are a number of solutions, the easiest thing to do is to make up a bonding plug (attach a piece of wire between the neutral (silver screw) and ground (green screw) in a male connector) & plug it into one side of the receptacle on the generator.

As to whether a small 120V generator should be bonded, that is an argument that goes on forever. In many ways, an unbonded generator is safer than one that has a bond. If you want some useful facts, check out this PDF.
Jon,
Thanks for that information. I was unaware that the little generators were not bonded ground to neutral. I do know that building codes do not want sub panels bonded. Just the main service entrance bonds.
Russ
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:33 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by ruscal View Post
Your trailer and generator ground should be connected through the cord. Your trailer converter chasis should be bonded to the trailer frame too. My Honda EU2000I has a earth lug that can be attached to a ground rod or plumbing pipe to provide a path to ground.

Russ
Yup, I thought the cord should have provided a common ground. Tried a different cord. Same result. Tried old cord to house poer and no open ground. A bit of a puzzle, but nonetheless the generator will run the AC, which is all I really needed to know right now. Can sort out the details the 2nd week of ownership.....
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Old 09-16-2014, 10:13 PM   #20
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Jon,
Thanks for that information. I was unaware that the little generators were not bonded ground to neutral. I do know that building codes do not want sub panels bonded. Just the main service entrance bonds.
Russ
Perfect.
I just went through a lot of rigamaroll to bond a sub panel because the electrical inspector noted it on the report for my insurance company. If you can't believe the professional, who can you believe?
No matter. I got the signatures and got my house insurance renewed.
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