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Old 09-22-2015, 03:38 PM   #1
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Possible refrigerator trouble?

Got my eye on the fridge. Just got back from a 5 day trip. Had a great time. Love the Escape.

However, in the driveway at home, when we got back I plugged the trailer in to 110 to keep the fridge going for a few hours while we unpacked everything else. The fridge never seemed to go off, even when set at a high temperature setting.

So I pulled the 110 plug and pressed the on/off button on the fridge until all the blue lights went off on the top of the fridge. But even then the compressor (or something) made a low frequency throbbing hum. The heat and the hot water heater were off. Propane closed down. I then flipped the main electrical supply switch (to the two six volt batteries, up front, under the dining table) to off and the low frequency hum immediately stopped.

Is that the fridge humming, the compressor perhaps? Even when it is supposed to be off? Why didn't it stop running (eventually) when plugged in?

Not sure how to debug this. Or if anything is even wrong. But it seems like it must be. Thank you!
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:01 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by pittendrigh View Post
Got my eye on the fridge. Just got back from a 5 day trip. Had a great time. Love the Escape.

However, in the driveway at home, when we got back I plugged the trailer in to 110 to keep the fridge going for a few hours while we unpacked everything else. The fridge never seemed to go off, even when set at a high temperature setting.

So I pulled the 110 plug and pressed the on/off button on the fridge until all the blue lights went off on the top of the fridge. But even then the compressor (or something) made a low frequency throbbing hum. The heat and the hot water heater were off. Propane closed down. I then flipped the main electrical supply switch (to the two six volt batteries, up front, under the dining table) to off and the low frequency hum immediately stopped.

Is that the fridge humming, the compressor perhaps? Even when it is supposed to be off? Why didn't it stop running (eventually) when plugged in?

Not sure how to debug this. Or if anything is even wrong. But it seems like it must be. Thank you!
Hi: pittendrigh... No compressor for these fridges. Probably the cooling fan in the converter housing running while it tops up the battery. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:10 PM   #3
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Ah. Thank you. That makes sense.
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Old 09-22-2015, 04:21 PM   #4
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I was going to say just about exactly what Alf said. Not likely it is your refrigerator and likely it is the converter, and nothing is wrong.
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:00 PM   #5
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I have a 12 VDC fan on my refrigerator for cooling the coils.
If the fan temperature control is not satisfied, the fan will continue to run even if the
refrigerator is in the off position .
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:29 PM   #6
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Similar to some autos that have fans that continue to operate while the engine is off.
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Old 02-19-2016, 05:28 AM   #7
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fridge

Will Escape put in a 12 /110 volt fridge instead of 3 way fridge . I do not want all those vents showing ? Will Escape do this ? Then let the Tug or Solar keep up 12 volt when traveling or 110 when plugged in to campsite ? Hopefully will order 4/1/16 Jim
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Old 02-19-2016, 06:12 AM   #8
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Will Escape put in a 12 /110 volt fridge instead of 3 way fridge . I do not want all those vents showing ? Will Escape do this ? Then let the Tug or Solar keep up 12 volt when traveling or 110 when plugged in to campsite ? Hopefully will order 4/1/16 Jim
Let me be the first to say, I doubt it. And if you could find one that didn't use propane, it would probably still need the vents. These non-compressor fridges use a heating system that causing the cooling. If you're not using propane to provide that heat, you're using 12v or 120v heating elements, and those each heat the liquid or gas that heats and cools and runs the fridge. Air has to come in at the low vent and exit through the high vent, even without propane. Since you've been on the forum for several years, you may have noticed one owner who switched to a compressor type fridge at great effort and modifications, with 4 or more batteries. ETI has not chosen to go that way, but you can always ask. With the changes in the air, you never know.
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:14 AM   #9
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What vents showing, there is only one on the side, the other roof vent is not visible. With solar and dual 6er's you can operate off 12v all day.
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:20 AM   #10
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I agree with Bill. All refrigerators, no matter how powered generate heat. Without outside vents, you'll be pumping heat into the trailer. I see you're in Florida Jenny. Talk about a hot box! The only other option would be an ice box and that comes with it's own set of issues.
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Old 02-19-2016, 02:00 PM   #11
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There are absorption refrigerators which operate like traditional RV refrigerators (run by heat), but work only on electricity - not propane. These are extremely rare, although sometimes used in hotel rooms and dorm rooms because they are quiet. Because they don't burn fuel they can (and do) exhaust heat within the room. That would address the outside vent issue, but there are so many other problems with this design that I certainly wouldn't want it.

If I had a trailer prepared for a compressor-type refrigerator, there is no chance that I would vent it to the outside. The heat being pumped out a refrigerator is mostly heat that came into it from the trailer interior anyway, so very little would actually be added to the interior. An outside-vented refrigerator is a very small air conditioner - because it does pump heat out - but that slight benefit would not be worth having the vents to me. If it is so hot outside that the refrigerator heat is an issue, an outside-vented refrigerator is going to struggle anyway, since it is pumping heat up such a big thermal gradient.
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Old 02-19-2016, 05:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill and Earline View Post
Let me be the first to say, I doubt it. And if you could find one that didn't use propane, it would probably still need the vents. These non-compressor fridges use a heating system that causing the cooling. If you're not using propane to provide that heat, you're using 12v or 120v heating elements, and those each heat the liquid or gas that heats and cools and runs the fridge. Air has to come in at the low vent and exit through the high vent, even without propane. Since you've been on the forum for several years, you may have noticed one owner who switched to a compressor type fridge at great effort and modifications, with 4 or more batteries. ETI has not chosen to go that way, but you can always ask. With the changes in the air, you never know.
Bill
Venting isn't a problem, per se. There are several compressor based fridges that will work in an RV - and some are self venting.

But, go ahead and ask if you feel strongly about it. The answer will be a no. Trust me, several have asked before.
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