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Old 07-21-2014, 09:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klem View Post
If it is a limitation of the technology can an additional fan inside and outside (back) extend the operational temperature range? My point is IF it can,which I believe it will after talking to Mike about their FridgeFix, then it's not a limit of the technology.

Or is it a limitation of the technology when sold in the configuration they sell it in?

I guess that's the purpose of this thread?
Well, I suppose they could make an absorption fridge that would work better and run colder, but inevitably, it'd cost hundreds more -- maybe more than that. As for the fan, others came up with the idea. I'd rather reward them for their ingenuity in trying to fix a problem than fault the manufacturer for not thinking of it first.
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:00 PM   #12
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Whoa fellows.......let's not be jumping the gun here. In his opening post Dave said, and I quote:
" Camp ground is at 8300 feet temps high 70's to 80's. Over the weekend the frig worked great on 2 on propane."
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:06 PM   #13
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Whoa fellows.......let's not be jumping the gun here. In his opening post Dave said, and I quote:
" Camp ground is at 8300 feet temps high 70's to 80's. Over the weekend the frig worked great on 2 on propane."
Which is my point exactly Myron. I think that given the limitations of absorption technology, the fridges do a pretty good job most of the time.
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Old 07-22-2014, 10:23 AM   #14
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Right on, Rbryn. I have been following this fridges stuff closely, though I admit have had no complainable issues with mine, although have also not yet camped in the hot-as-hell weather.

My 19's build start date was Aug 30 '13, with the RM 8551. Page 18 of my Dometic manual under Caption "Forced ventilation," states "To achieve better air circulation at high ambient temperatures this appliance is equipped with an additional fan." A drawing illustrates there are two fans in back, above the big coils.

Dave's opening post results are convincing me that adding another fan inside the fridge will further improve cooling efficiency. I'm probably going to go with that. Have zero desire to pull the unit out and add that baffle configuration, which I'm thinking is not worth the trouble.

Of course however, in the spirit of full disclosure, re-read paragraph one above.
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Old 07-22-2014, 12:22 PM   #15
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RV fix fan

We have been in Oregon now for over a week and our fridge did not like 100* weather with frequent opening of the door. But as soon as we started seeing some cool nights I see single digit freezer and 30's in the fridge but also the cooling unit needed to be defrosted, something we don't need to do with 10% humidity in AZ. I have two fans blowing up the back over the coils plus a styro panel to deflect the air over the coils and a single 4 inch fan inside to circulate air and my fridge is ok in this weather but not at 100*. I looked at the RV fix fan and ordered it this morning because I believe it will help with much better distribution of the cold air than I have now. I'll find out when we see the high temps later this summer if I have time to install the fan.
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Old 07-22-2014, 12:22 PM   #16
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After confirming my unit has the rear baffle, I went inside and removed the top refer instrument panel and determined it was all sealed in the rear, except overhead there is a large piece of exposed fiberglass shell. There is no insulation, just unfinished fg? I'm wondering if this was done by choice to keep it cooler or by accident and should I cover the exposed fg with reflectix? Anyone else looked up and there and have similar situation? Any ideas on what to do?
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:16 PM   #17
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We cannot change the physical heat exchange characteristics of absorption refrigeration. Ambient air temps regulate the heat exchange between the evaporator and the condenser.
We can however enhance the performance by:
Moving the cool air in the frig by using fans that direct air away from the evaporator in the frig and distribute the air throughout the inside of the cooling box.
We can move more ambient air across the condenser behind the frig. I am grateful that Reace is trying to address this strategy. He is not happy with the results but feels that the baffle mod helps. In the 4.3 frig the mod goal is to direct the air across the thermal switch on the condenser that turns on the fans below the condenser. Without the mod the fans are not coming on and even then seem ineffective when manually controlled by a switch.
Add thermostatically or manually controlled fans at the top of the vent to draw air up and across the condenser pulling ambient air in the lower inlet and discharging out of the top vent.
Without any fan enhancement we are relying on the draft of rising hot air to pull air in the lower vent and venting it from the top vent which has a restricted vented cap.
The condenser fans can be turned on manually, using a thermal switch turned on and off by ambient air, or attached to the burner tube.
If you are camping in hot weather consider a cooler and ice as a backup.
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Old 07-22-2014, 02:22 PM   #18
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"We cannot change the physical heat exchange characteristics of absorption refrigeration. Ambient air temps regulate the heat exchange between the evaporator and the condenser.
We can however enhance the performance"


That's what I've been trying to say all along -- except not as artfully.
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Old 07-22-2014, 03:33 PM   #19
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I've been toying with the concept of muffin fans mounted on a plate that would sit on top of the vent insect screen, powered by a solar cell mounted either on the top of the vent cover or the top of the trailer next to the fridge vent. Will have to wait until my 21 arrives before proceeding, my biggest curiosity is how to get adequate airflow without affecting the flame in the chimney..........
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