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Old 01-07-2014, 11:56 AM   #31
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DaveD ( Vancouver) and I brainstormed an idea we have yet to try. Removing the lock gives access to the door interior. We thought if we removed the door and turned sideways. We could fill the cavity with "bean bag" beads. Good insulation and no overfill problem. We have not worked out the static problem yet we think would occur in trying to funnel the beads through the door lock area. Once in the beads would have to be sealed in to preventing migration into the lock area.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:46 PM   #32
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DaveD ( Vancouver) and I brainstormed an idea we have yet to try. Removing the lock gives access to the door interior. We thought if we removed the door and turned sideways. We could fill the cavity with "bean bag" beads. Good insulation and no overfill problem. We have not worked out the static problem yet we think would occur in trying to funnel the beads through the door lock area. Once in the beads would have to be sealed in to preventing migration into the lock area.
Interesting idea - let us know if it works. I think you could safely seal around the lock with a small amount the window/door type expanding foam.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:53 PM   #33
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I'm still trying to envision this 'warped' door. Can you describe it?
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Old 01-07-2014, 02:56 PM   #34
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I'm still trying to envision this 'warped' door. Can you describe it?
As you are aware, the door is curved convex on the outside and concave on the inside. Simply put. the door 'straightens out' and looses some of the curve, which causes the bottom and/or the top to come away from the seal while the centre (lock area) will be shut tight. Insulating between door skins may not work if the door is affected by the inside and outside temperature.
When I experienced this condition, it was -4 C outside and +22 C inside. Materials usually expand when heated and contract when cold. If the door is freezing cold on the outside (contracted) and warm on the inside, the door will 'straighten out' a bit from its normal curved condition. I have difficulty proving this as we have warmed up considerably in the Vancouver area and I don't have a huge freezer to conduct a controlled experiment.
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Old 01-07-2014, 03:10 PM   #35
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Got it now.
So, if the seals expanded more than they do, would that prevent leakage?
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:41 PM   #36
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Got it now.
So, if the seals expanded more than they do, would that prevent leakage?
I suppose it would prevent leakage if the seals expanded, but I don't know how this could be done.
Perhaps the seal could be made like a skinny inner tube. The air displaced from the tight areas would get pushed to the open areas and seal them. Each seal could then be inflated to the right amount depending on the trailer involved.
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:52 PM   #37
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If the door is losing its curvature over time or due to thermal effects, the problem may be solved at the manufacturing end by stiffening up the doors. I know that in my Escape 19', it is possible to see daylight out of the bottom corner of our door when sitting in the dinette. I have bought a length of foam with tape backing to try to fix (by placing behind the existing foam weatherstripping), but was planning on waiting for a bit warmer weather first.

Don't know if such a thing is available or even feasible to construct, but a door with latches at top, middle, and bottom would help to keep a flexible door snug against the trailer sides.
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:43 PM   #38
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If the door was made of carbon fiber composite rather than fiberglass composite it would resist distortion due to thermal effects, it would be stiffer, and resist distortion over time. Carbon fiber has a negative coefficient of expansion, while the matrix has a positive coefficient of expansion, resulting in a nearly zero net coefficient of expansion which takes care of the thermal effect. The cost would also be somewhat higher.
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:53 PM   #39
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Not too sure about the engineering issues about the door fit but it was a big disappointment to see light coming in around the door the morning after we took delivery. We had camped close enough to return to Chilliwack for repairs. Escape paid for a night in the RV park across the freeway and replaced the entire door the next am. They also used the tube foam to supplement the door seals which seemed to be a bandaid approach to me. Also had a water pump fail on the trip home which they promptly replaced (they still owe me 5 rolls of TP). After all of that, I received a nice "care package" from Kim and an apology. Don't know that I could ask for more. I think they are really trying to produce a superior product with superior service. It's not the perfect RV but it's awfully close.
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:13 PM   #40
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When I owned a Escape 19ft had the same door seal problems the factory fixed the seal and replaced the threshold with heavier material with wire in it. My foot was wearing through the rubber. The heavier rubber threshold solved my problem. Escape is very good when it comes to service at the factory or away.
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