stabilizing Jack dangling - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 05-27-2017, 01:15 PM   #1
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stabilizing Jack dangling

We were towing our new 2017 19' back from Florida on the freeway when we heard a metal clanging noise. At a rest stop I noticed the right rear stabilizing jack was hanging by only one screw. I don't believe we hit anything and I know I had put them all back up before we left. I removed the last screw and did not see any apparent damage where it might have struck something. But I'm wondering about remounting it. It uses 1 1/4" self tapping screws (not that beefy for the weight) into the square frame. Not sure it would hold putting that size back in, maybe slightly larger ones? Perhaps I could get someone to spot weld along the edges after screwing it back on?
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Old 05-31-2017, 03:27 AM   #2
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Each stabilizer jack is mounted using 3 self-tapping 1/4" screws on my 2015 19' - 2 outboard into the main frame rails, and 1 inboard into a very thin gauge angle cross-member. When I tried to use one of the rear inboard screws for a ground connection eyelet, it immediately turned to mush as I tightened it - the cross-member is really thin gauge and can only catch about 1 thread of the screw so there's just not enough meat for the screw to grab. The 2 outboard screws go into the thicker frame rails, so have plenty of metal to thread into. I drilled out the inboard mounting holes for 1/4" clearance and used 1/4" bolts (grade 5), washers, and nuts. Unlike with the outboard screws, the angle cross-member will allow you to get a wrench on the bolt heads. As you remove the screw, be sure to prop up the inboard end of the jack or else it will swing down and will be supported only by the 2 outboard screws.

I'm not sure how you ended up with your RR jack only held on with 1 screw, but I'm guessing that of the 2 missing screws, 1 of them was the inboard screw in the thin cross-member. I think there would be room to drill and tap threads for a 5/16" bolt if you need new threads for an outboard bolt in the frame rail, or just drill it out and use a 5/16" self-tapping screw.

I would hesitate having the jacks welded in place - too much of a long-term commitment and some concern about the heat and/or arcing so close to the fiberglass.
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Old 05-31-2017, 08:51 AM   #3
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Now I'm Gonna check mine to be safe. An employee could have stripped them out during install too. Hard to tell. I've done it working on cars.

"I'm not sure how you ended up with your RR jack only held on with 1 screw"

NCopp, Keep us posted on how you fixed it. I'm glad you caught in in time. That could have we be bad for the family behind you on the road. Thanks.
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Old 06-01-2017, 11:03 AM   #4
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stabilizing Jack dangling

Wow, great info Great Eggstrications. I'll get underneath and check it out. I did remove the jack in the rest area parking lot. It was the outboard screw left holding it. As you said that was pretty secure. I'll keep you posted on the fix. We have the under insulation so that may complicate things.
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Old 06-01-2017, 11:14 AM   #5
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After using my Escape the first season.I happened to lean against the spare tire and noticed that the whole mounting bracket bolts were loose and ready to fall off.Made me check other things and I also found the bracket holding the water tank underneath was also loose.I have now checked everything on the trailer.
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Old 06-01-2017, 11:55 AM   #6
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In my case, everything is pretty much buried under the spray foam insulation. Very hard to tell what is coming loose and what isn't. But I wouldn't be to quick to blame the factory. Unlike your house, a trailer is subject to a lot of vibration. I have had to tighten down the water heater cover twice. Loren
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Old 06-09-2017, 03:44 PM   #7
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stabilizing Jack dangling

I took my new 19 to an RV repair shop (to get the new Dometic air conditioning fixed - yes it worked a couple times then only the fan, no cooling. Just a manufacturing defect likely, he says it happens now and then. That's for another thread) I had them install the stabilizer jack that came loose. They used a 1" 1/4 bolt with a metal locking nut for the inner mount point. He had to drill out one of the outer mount screws then put two new self tapping screws back in and snugged them carefully (same size I believe). He surmised the inner screw might have been over tightened, but no way to know. I did take a wrench to the other 3 jacks and all were snug but one inner screw that was maybe 1/4 to 1/2 turn loose. It's possible if the jack is not raised until snug, it could wobble a bit and cause the inner screw, which only has a couple of threads to bite into the thin frame, to work itself loose. A snug bolt will work well I think. I will check them again before big trips. I checked everything else on the trailer I could get a wrench on and nothing was loose.
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Old 06-09-2017, 03:57 PM   #8
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Considering the pressure that a lot of trailer owners put on those relatively lightweight jacks, I'm surprised more people don't have problems. I saw one fellow last week jack up his MPG trailer, lifting the front stabilizers off the ground and putting a great deal of front-to-rear pressure on the two rear stabilizers. You could see the rear stabilizers sway and bounce as he was doing this. When I suggested he might be putting too much weight on them, he replied that it's easier than using chocks.

I'm putting "check stabilizer jacks" on my regular checklist.
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Old 06-09-2017, 07:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCopp View Post
.... the stabilizer jack that came loose. They used a 1" 1/4 bolt with a metal locking nut for the inner mount point. He had to drill out one of the outer mount screws then put two new self tapping screws back in and snugged them carefully (same size I believe). ....
After catching a front stabilizer pad on a lip in a sidewalk and bending it while leaving a low parking area, I took the stabilizer off to repair it, and found the same thing: the outer two self-tap screws were slightly loose, and the inner was very loose. I replaced the inner with a bolt and locknut, but the outer screws fasten to the bottom of the rectangular tube steel frame, so I used two new self-tap screws as replacement. They worked, but I now check them all before every trip.
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