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Old 11-13-2012, 09:35 PM   #1
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Tongue Jack handle

With the front storage box and dual propane set up, there is little room on the 19' tongue for the jack to be moved. The jack handle catches my tailgate and keeps me from completely opening the back of the truck. I thought of 6" hitch extender but that can create unsafe towing. I thought of a top mount jack handle but the propane tanks too high. Side swing will not work either. If I can remove the handle then all is good. Has anyone modified their jack handle to allow more clearance?
Thanks for any help
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:50 PM   #2
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How about the electric jack? Assuming you can stand the noise it makes.
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:01 PM   #3
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No ideas here, but the thought of making it removable seems like a good idea, you would just have to ensure it says put when in use.

I assume this is with the Dodge, as the Toyota has a lift gate, does it not?
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:06 PM   #4
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No ideas here, but the thought of making it removable seems like a good idea, you would just have to ensure it says put when in use.

I assume this is with the Dodge, as the Toyota has a lift gate, does it not?
yes the dodge hits about 2" of the handle (I have a dent now in the tailgate from sitting on it while open resting on the jack handle) The FJ cruiser spare hits the handle - can not open the rear at all to allow the dogs out
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:37 PM   #5
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I'm betting you can drill out the original pin holding the handle, remove it and put it in your storage box when not in use. Most hardware stores sell a variety of sizes of pins like the one in the photo that could hold it in place while in use. And doing so would make your rig really hard to steal!

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File Type: jpg Wire Lock Pin Round Tab Zc.jpg (11.8 KB, 330 views)
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:56 PM   #6
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I have a 19' and pull it with my Honda Pilot. I put on a WDH and an 3500 lb electric tongue jack worrying that the tailgate wouldn't open when everything was installed. To my pleasant surprise, the Equal-I-Zer hitch has a receiver head that moved the ball back about 6 inches and the gate easily clears the really tall electric tongue jack with the rear end held in position where it should be by the WDH. I guess I have a lucky combination.

Jim, with the support bags you have installed in your TV I don't think a 6" extension would be unsafe at all. In fact, I'll bet that if you add about 5-10lbs to the bags the gate will clear. You may be able to rig an onboard tank and hit the "boost" button to raise the rear end a tad....
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Old 11-14-2012, 12:39 AM   #7
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There are jacks with folding handles if you are willing to pay for one. Could require welding something or not to change what you have to folding instead of another jack. Your problem is hardly uncommon so there should be an RV shop in your area that has dealt with it.
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:32 AM   #8
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I removed the handle on our 17 even though it did not hit our tailgate. I installed a fitting the same size as the corner jack fittings, purchased an 18V battery drill and now raise and lower all jacks with it. Takes only seconds to set up camp. I keep the battery charger attached to an inverter.
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:42 AM   #9
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I removed the handle on our 17 even though it did not hit our tailgate. I installed a fitting the same size as the corner jack fittings, purchased an 18V battery drill and now raise and lower all jacks with it. Takes only seconds to set up camp. I keep the battery charger attached to an inverter.
Can you post some pictures and or source of fitting, this is what I'm trying to accomplish.
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:45 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Wray View Post
I'm betting you can drill out the original pin holding the handle, remove it and put it in your storage box when not in use. Most hardware stores sell a variety of sizes of pins like the one in the photo that could hold it in place while in use. And doing so would make your rig really hard to steal!

Bruce
The schematic shows a cog on the end of the handle, I need to keep that there and somehow remove just the black part, yet reattach it.
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotfishtacos View Post
I have a 19' and pull it with my Honda Pilot. I put on a WDH and an 3500 lb electric tongue jack worrying that the tailgate wouldn't open when everything was installed. To my pleasant surprise, the Equal-I-Zer hitch has a receiver head that moved the ball back about 6 inches and the gate easily clears the really tall electric tongue jack with the rear end held in position where it should be by the WDH. I guess I have a lucky combination.

Jim, with the support bags you have installed in your TV I don't think a 6" extension would be unsafe at all. In fact, I'll bet that if you add about 5-10lbs to the bags the gate will clear. You may be able to rig an onboard tank and hit the "boost" button to raise the rear end a tad....
The air bags do not raise the vehicle, they just make the ride firmer. It hits the tailgate with or without air. I need to somehow remove the last 6" of the handle yet be able to re-attach.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:53 AM   #12
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Assuming that there is a clearance problem inspite of the handle position and you are using WD, you might consider a longer ball mount if you can find one with the correct rise or drop.
Ball Help Articles | etrailer.com Mounts
Ball Mount 2-3/4" Rise or 4" Drop - Extra-Extra-Long, 6,000 lbs Hidden Hitch Ball Mounts 80233
Cushioned Ball Mount for 2" Hitches - 3/4" Rise - 2" Drop - 10,000 lbs Convert-A-Ball Ball Mounts AMSC2
Ball Mount 3/4" Rise or 2" Drop, 13-1/4" Long Brophy Ball Mounts BM20
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:12 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
How about the electric jack? Assuming you can stand the noise it makes.
I have the electric jack, combined with the front storage box & dual propane on my 17B. The fit is so tight I had to modify the back side of the tank cover to get enough clearance to open & close the storage box.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:25 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubal View Post
Assuming that there is a clearance problem inspite of the handle position and you are using WD, you might consider a longer ball mount if you can find one with the correct rise or drop.
Ball Help Articles | etrailer.com Mounts
Ball Mount 2-3/4" Rise or 4" Drop - Extra-Extra-Long, 6,000 lbs Hidden Hitch Ball Mounts 80233
Cushioned Ball Mount for 2" Hitches - 3/4" Rise - 2" Drop - 10,000 lbs Convert-A-Ball Ball Mounts AMSC2
Ball Mount 3/4" Rise or 2" Drop, 13-1/4" Long Brophy Ball Mounts BM20
Jubal
I'm already using a w/d stinger set up without the bars, extends 12", I have found one @ Etrailer that is 16" here Ball Mount Class III 3/4" Rise or 2" Drop - Super Extra Long, 6,000 lbs Hidden Hitch Ball Mounts 80232
just wondering what the extra length would do to the handling??
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Old 11-14-2012, 12:59 PM   #15
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I have a manual tongue jack on my scamp that hit the propane tank. What I did is take off the whole original handle and welded on a nut that matched the Bal leveling nut that we have in the back. This way I was able to us their handle in two places. The handle sticks straight up and turn it quite easily.
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:03 PM   #16
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It is a 3/4" nut on the Escape stabilizers. You could just weld a not on the top of the jack. My BAL X-chocks use a 3/4" wrench too.
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:07 PM   #17
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I'm going to contact a welder and see what they recommend, thanx
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:26 PM   #18
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I found an old top mount "Bulldog" 5000lb jack in the garage which I disassembled and cleaned/lubricated. Took the top handle off and found a 3/4 wheel lug nut which is just right size. I'm going to go to HF tomorrow and get a 3/4" tap/die set and try to create some threads on the shaft. I'll then thread down the nut and have someone spot weld to keep it from unthreading. If that works, I'll install that on Quahog, remove the factory jack and do the same there, except the nut shaft will be horizontal, not vertical in the Bulldog. I'll cut the handle with hacksaw, thread the shaft and install another 3/4" nut and have it spot welded. That way I'll have a spare if one fails while on the road. Pictures to follow. I have several 3/4 ratchet's I use for the wheel stabilizers so I should be in business.
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:36 PM   #19
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If you're taking it in for a weld, you might as well save yourself the exercise with the hack-saw and get them to cut it off with a torch.
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Old 11-14-2012, 02:50 PM   #20
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If you're taking it in for a weld, you might as well save yourself the exercise with the hack-saw and get them to cut it off with a torch.
Not sure if that process will allow me to cut some threads, it may not be a smooth cut. I'll ask.
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