Two unrelated questions. What kind of Jack and green crap in fresh water tank hose - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 10-08-2017, 10:48 AM   #1
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Two unrelated questions. What kind of Jack and green crap in fresh water tank hose

Question 1-we purchased our 21 slightly used. Previous peer told us he never filled the fresh tank. We have not ever filled it either (had ours for 1 year). Anyhow just noticed the underbelly tube is full of green gunk. I read how to sanitize the whole system but am not sure I want to pump this funk into the system. Can or should I just lol at repacking this clear tune amd then donít take anyoneís word for something?

#2- what type/ brand of jack do you use if you have a flat trailer tire. Also any good you tube videos/instructions on how to do. Not a problem now but need to be prepared.


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Old 10-08-2017, 11:21 AM   #2
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We carry an Anderson jack (and levelers).
IMG_2852.JPG
I haven't had a flat but I tried it out when adjusting the brakes and it was easy to use. You just drive up on it with one wheel and it lifts the other off the ground.

https://andersenhitches.com/Products...apid-jack.aspx

https://youtu.be/-jE_x_TjlOI
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Old 10-08-2017, 11:42 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by yologals View Post
Question 1-we purchased our 21 slightly used. Previous peer told us he never filled the fresh tank. We have not ever filled it either (had ours for 1 year). Anyhow just noticed the underbelly tube is full of green gunk. I read how to sanitize the whole system but am not sure I want to pump this funk into the system. Can or should I just lol at repacking this clear tune amd then donít take anyoneís word for something?

#2- what type/ brand of jack do you use if you have a flat trailer tire. Also any good you tube videos/instructions on how to do. Not a problem now but need to be prepared.


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That green gunk is mostly algae that's been growing in the waste pipe. A bleach solution should take care of it quickly, or you can get an algaecide from a company that services swimming pools.

Myself, I'd do a sanitization routine first and see if that removes the algae. You might need a long brush to clean out the detritus.
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Old 10-08-2017, 04:10 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by yologals View Post
Question 1-we purchased our 21 slightly used. Previous peer told us he never filled the fresh tank. We have not ever filled it either (had ours for 1 year). Anyhow just noticed the underbelly tube is full of green gunk. I read how to sanitize the whole system but am not sure I want to pump this funk into the system. Can or should I just lol at repacking this clear tune amd then don’t take anyone’s word for something?
If the trailer has (or you are willing to add) a winterizing tee, you could disconnect the tubing from the tank and pump clean water into the tee, so that it flushes the tubing out (flowing backwards to the usual direction). Then sanitize as usual, without pushing the gunk through the whole system.

If that doesn't flush the tubing well enough, I would consider replacing it rather than trying to brush it clean. It's readily available vinyl tubing with simple hose clamps on the ends.

The water system was probably tested at the factory, so even if it was never used by any owner, that tubing would have been damp, and could have been growing gunk ever since.
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Old 10-08-2017, 04:45 PM   #5
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That green gunk is mostly algae that's been growing in the waste pipe. A bleach solution should take care of it quickly, or you can get an algaecide from a company that services swimming pools.

Myself, I'd do a sanitization routine first and see if that removes the algae. You might need a long brush to clean out the detritus.
For the long brush a trombone snake will work. Ours had the green in it too. We emptied the tank in April after we picked it up and did not use the tank or look at it untill the previous hurricane. So we had some green in it and the plastic hose was real green.. It's clean now and will stay that way.

I had the snake from when I used to have to clean drains in a convertible.
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Old 10-11-2017, 05:32 PM   #6
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Green gunk in hose

After some more digging, the hose that was filled with green gunk is the hose that connect the clean water tank with the pump. I managed to get it disconnected from the pump and the tank, but that included a 3 way valve that also had short piece of tube that has a gunky film in it.

I want to just replace all of it so here are my questions. What type of tubing do I purchase? I know it needs to handle pressure and needs to be safe for drinking water. Also, it appears that there are "black bands" holding the tubing in place on the valve. What the kind of fastener are those and can you use a different fastener?
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Old 10-11-2017, 05:32 PM   #7
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added photo of valve and connectors
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Old 10-11-2017, 06:42 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by yologals View Post
After some more digging, the hose that was filled with green gunk is the hose that connect the clean water tank with the pump. I managed to get it disconnected from the pump and the tank, but that included a 3 way valve that also had short piece of tube that has a gunky film in it.
The valve and short tube are the winterizing T-valve kit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yologals View Post
I want to just replace all of it so here are my questions. What type of tubing do I purchase? I know it needs to handle pressure and needs to be safe for drinking water.
It needs to handle moderate suction, rather than internal pressure. It's PVC (vinyl), and readily available at plumbing and building supply stores.
Example: PVC hose at Home Depot

Quote:
Originally Posted by yologals View Post
Also, it appears that there are "black bands" holding the tubing in place on the valve. What the kind of fastener are those and can you use a different fastener?
The photos didn't post, but Escape may have used crimp rings intended for PEX tubing. There's no need to use those (and they're not intended for this type of tubing anyway); you can just use common gear clamps.
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Old 10-11-2017, 11:04 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Jimrules View Post
We carry an Anderson jack (and levelers).
Attachment 27580
I haven't had a flat but I tried it out when adjusting the brakes and it was easy to use. You just drive up on it with one wheel and it lifts the other off the ground.

https://andersenhitches.com/Products...apid-jack.aspx

https://youtu.be/-jE_x_TjlOI
We have it and have had to used it ... it worked GREAT.

After using it the one time, I coudl have gotten away using just the anderson levelers on flat pavment .. upon un-even surface it woudl be nice to hae the extra height of the Rapid-Jack
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Old 10-11-2017, 11:33 PM   #10
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Have had to use our Trailer Aid several times this year for side to side leveling. Nice to have the extra lift when needed.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:12 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by yologals View Post
Also, it appears that there are "black bands" holding the tubing in place on the valve. What the kind of fastener are those and can you use a different fastener?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
... Escape may have used crimp rings intended for PEX tubing. There's no need to use those (and they're not intended for this type of tubing anyway); you can just use common gear clamps.
A photo just posted by LarryandLiz shows this winterizing valve (white) and tubing (clear) in their trailer:

Their trailer has the style of gear clamps which would normally be used with this type of tubing.
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:56 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
A photo just posted by LarryandLiz shows this winterizing valve (white) and tubing (clear) in their trailer:



Their trailer has the style of gear clamps which would normally be used with this type of tubing.


Thank you! There was only one of this type of clamp used, which is how I was able to disconnect it. The other cosmos are in place and not moving. Iím going to have to try to cut them off or buy another winterizing valve.


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Old 10-12-2017, 08:07 AM   #13
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Ooooh, so the Winterizing T-Valve can be installed using regular hose clamps. That's good to know. The pic I scooped earlier, shows the hose affixed using what looks like Pex fasteners, that's why I've delayed adding the valve. I'll go ahead and use the hand pump this year, but add this valve to the mod list.
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Old 10-12-2017, 01:17 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by yologals View Post
Thank you! There was only one of this type of clamp used, which is how I was able to disconnect it. The other cosmos are in place and not moving. Iím going to have to try to cut them off or buy another winterizing valve.


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Pex clamp rings are made of copper and can be cut with an oscillating multi-tool using a metal cutting blade. Be sure to secure the valve with a clamp against a board or some such so it is stable for the cut. Otherwise the oscillating tool will just vibrate the material rather than cut it. Since the hose will be replaced, it is ok to cut a bit into it but be careful not to cut through the hose and score the valve fitting itself or the new hose may leak.

Good Luck!
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Old 10-12-2017, 05:44 PM   #15
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Since the hose will be replaced, it is ok to cut a bit into it but be careful not to cut through the hose and score the valve fitting itself or the new hose may leak.
There are times when the hose does have to be re-used. I use the same technique for ring removal regardless of whether I'm re-using the hose or not. I use a hand held hacksaw blade and I make my cut diagonally across the ring. Seems like it gives more control on the depth of cut that way.

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Old 10-12-2017, 06:02 PM   #16
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A dremel tool works great to carefully cut of off PEX clamps. I've also use a short hacksaw blade like Ron. If you don't want to spend the $$ on the big PEX clamp ring tool, there is a different type of PEX clamps that uses a very inexpensive tool and seems to hold just as well. (See below)

Donna, I used the winterizing T valve in our new 21 that I've never had before - fastest I have ever winterized. On the 21 it took a little more than 1 gallon with the longer runs and I like to just run plenty so that the drains are done at the same time.
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Old 10-12-2017, 07:41 PM   #17
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Donna, I used the winterizing T valve in our new 21 that I've never had before - fastest I have ever winterized. On the 21 it took a little more than 1 gallon with the longer runs and I like to just run plenty so that the drains are done at the same time.
Thanks Eric! Sigh. I'm not certain the Winterizing T-Valve was even available as an option when I bought (ordered) Ten Forward. IF it was, I wasn't paying attention. I do know the low level drains had just been discontinued. This will be the third year I've used the hand pump connected to the city water connection. It's NOT painful, just takes a bit of time as I run inside/outside. I'm not unhappy about what I need to do, just lazy... There's something about shoving a piece of tubing down inside a jug and turning on the water pump that sounds... glamorous? Or maybe it just... if it's raining... I could take care of everything while staying dry inside the trailer Next year!
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Old 10-12-2017, 08:22 PM   #18
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Donna,
The E-Z winterization kit has been available long before Escape started offering it, here it is on amazon for $13
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-P...zing+valve+kit
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Old 10-12-2017, 08:41 PM   #19
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Donna,
The E-Z winterization kit has been available long before Escape started offering it, here it is on amazon for $13
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-P...zing+valve+kit
Mighta been... but, an option from ETI? I didn't need the Winterizing T-value for my Scamp. It was so dang simple. No regrets getting something more involved. It's just time. And being retired, I have lots of that. I'm just LAZY. One of the benefits of no longer working for wages....

Got it on the "mod" schedule
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Old 10-13-2017, 04:02 AM   #20
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I believe the option began in 2012 with Escape, I asked for and received one on my 2012 19'. That was also the first 19 to have a bath window, I believe.
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