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Old 02-15-2016, 10:35 PM   #1
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Cool Using Generator with 5.0 TA

I'm having difficulty using my Honda 2000 with my new 5.0 TA. I turned off my built in Surg Protector, flipped the battery switch off and still got an overload red light on my gen. My appliance is a Breville convection oven. We had no problem with our Casita '17.
Any ideas woul be most appreciated.
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Old 02-15-2016, 10:41 PM   #2
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The Breville convection ovens, in Google search, are 1,800 watts.
I think you might get away with that, if you plug it directly into the generator, but not when running it through the trailer power supply.
But, what do I know? I still can't read my multi-meter.
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Old 02-16-2016, 12:18 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
The Breville convection ovens, in Google search, are 1,800 watts.
I think you might get away with that, if you plug it directly into the generator, but not when running it through the trailer power supply.
Why? For shore power, the trailer is essentially just a big extension cord and power bar, and it's a 30-amp cord and bar. As long as a 15-amp breaker doesn't pop, what would cause a problem?
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Old 02-16-2016, 12:21 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Ukulelemark View Post
We had no problem with our Casita '17.
Any ideas woul be most appreciated.
So, what's different?
Is there something additional running in the Escape which wasn't running in the Casita, such as the converter charging the trailer's battery?
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Old 02-16-2016, 12:42 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
So, what's different?
Is there something additional running in the Escape which wasn't running in the Casita, such as the converter charging the trailer's battery?
And, could that be considered the trailer power supply?
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Old 02-16-2016, 12:58 AM   #6
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And, could that be considered the trailer power supply?
The converter could be considered the trailer's power supply, but power to the AC outlets doesn't go through it, only through the distribution panel. The panel is nothing more than a built-in power bar, and can't make the oven use more power.

I just can't think of any reason why going through the wiring and distribution panel would cause more load and thus overload the generator. Having the converter on at the same time is no different from having another appliance plugged in, and of course that could cause an overload when added to the oven's load.

There should be a breaker in the panel feeding the converter, so the converter can be turned off absolutely and eliminated - or confirmed - as the problem.
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Old 02-16-2016, 01:15 AM   #7
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I wonder how accurate the 1,800 watt claim is? And, what does a Honda 2000 actually put out?
Just asking. Know nothing.
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Old 02-16-2016, 02:11 AM   #8
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I wonder how accurate the 1,800 watt claim is?
Good point - I would check the label on the appliance itself, and be prepared for the possibility that actual power consumption is different, and will vary depending on exact supply voltage.

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And, what does a Honda 2000 actually put out?
Although the EU2000i has a 20-amp outlet, Honda's specs say
Quote:
120V 2000W max. (16.7A) 1600W rated (13.3A)
So, it can handle up to 2000 watts briefly, but can't sustain more than 1600 watts... the convection oven sounds like too much for it, but the combination has worked before (in the Casita), perhaps because the oven cycles on and off to maintain temperature and would never continuously maintain the maximum rated power draw.
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Old 02-16-2016, 05:59 AM   #9
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Another reason to cook outside.....
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Old 02-16-2016, 08:52 AM   #10
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I had a yamaha 2400 inverter that ran perfectly with my casita but not with the 5.0 TA with the AirCondition runing. Now I have a Yamaha 2800 inverter for the 5.0 TA and this works.
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Old 02-16-2016, 01:20 PM   #11
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I was able to run the A/C in my 5.0TA with a Honda EU2000i after switching off the converter.
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Old 02-16-2016, 05:38 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by phlbua View Post
I had a yamaha 2400 inverter that ran perfectly with my casita but not with the 5.0 TA with the AirCondition runing. Now I have a Yamaha 2800 inverter for the 5.0 TA and this works.
Presumably the air conditioners are not the same: do you know the two models?
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Old 02-16-2016, 08:53 PM   #13
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Presumably the air conditioners are not the same: do you know the two models?
Don't know about the Casita's A/C, but the 5.0TA has a 11,000 BTU Dometic Penguin. As best as I can figure, it pulls 14-15 amps when running. In my previous post, I should have mentioned that I have the digital thermostat. With the digital thermostat, the fan starts before the compressor. That may be why I can run my A/C with the Honda EU2000i.
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Old 02-17-2016, 12:45 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
Don't know about the Casita's A/C, but the 5.0TA has a 11,000 BTU Dometic Penguin.
Could the Casita unit be smaller? Hmm... their website's options list doesn't help.

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Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
As best as I can figure, it pulls 14-15 amps when running. In my previous post, I should have mentioned that I have the digital thermostat. With the digital thermostat, the fan starts before the compressor. That may be why I can run my A/C with the Honda EU2000i.
14 amps or more is a bit too much for the EU2000i to handle continuously, according to Honda's rating. Maybe actual running current is lower, or the Honda can handle a little more than promised. Certainly not starting the fan motor and the compressor motor at the same time must help.
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Old 02-17-2016, 06:29 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ukulelemark View Post
I'm having difficulty using my Honda 2000 with my new 5.0 TA. I turned off my built in Surg Protector, flipped the battery switch off and still got an overload red light on my gen. My appliance is a Breville convection oven. We had no problem with our Casita '17.
Any ideas woul be most appreciated.
Make sure your electric water heater is turned off, before trying to hold down electric usage--assuming you have the two way heater. It is an often overlooked power hog.
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Old 02-17-2016, 06:49 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Could the Casita unit be smaller? Hmm... their website's options list doesn't help.


14 amps or more is a bit too much for the EU2000i to handle continuously, according to Honda's rating. Maybe actual running current is lower, or the Honda can handle a little more than promised. Certainly not starting the fan motor and the compressor motor at the same time must help.
Actual amp draw is 10.5 for compressor and 2.6 for fan. That is 13.1 total for the Penguin II 11,000 BTU unit. All I can say is that if everything else is off, the EU2000i will run mine.
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