Do we need weight distribution hitch, max. tongue weight 1040 lbs

[wetzk]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I don't know where you read that, but it is not correct.

Both weight on the hitch (trailer tongue weight) and cargo carried at the very back of the box have a similar effect on axle loads (and there is a rear axle load limit which can be a concern in some cases), but there is no specific limit for the combination of these loads.

On our 19 and I'm sure the 21 is similar weight added behind the bumper effects hitch weight. And adding water to the fresh water tank is an easy way to lower hitch weight.

[SouthernCamper]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I don't know where you read that, but it is not correct.

Both weight on the hitch (trailer tongue weight) and cargo carried at the very back of the box have a similar effect on axle loads (and there is a rear axle load limit which can be a concern in some cases), but there is no specific limit for the combination of these loads.

Thanks for the correction. It was a really surface intro non-technical article on WDH. Guess it was wrong

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by SouthernCamper

So if we were to get a WDH with chains instead of bars, it doesn't need the jack for adjusting and we can avoid the noise and physical interference of the power jack?

The Andersen No-Sway WDH tightens by turning a big nut on a bolt at the end of the chain on each side. You only avoid using the jack if you crank these nuts up from loose each time, but I think you'll find that at least some users of this WDH use the same technique as for other WDH's to make things easier: coupler on the ball, lift the tongue with the jack, hook up the WDH chains and/or bars, let tongue down with jack.

Originally Posted by SouthernCamper

If you have chains instead of bars, do you not have sway control with chains instead of bars?

The Andersen doesn't exactly have chains instead of bars. All WD systems need springs: those are the long bars on traditional design, and urethane cylinders on the Andersen No-Sway. All WD systems need some way to transmit force between the trailer and hitch head: traditional designs use vertical chains or hook the bars directly on brackets; the Andersen No-Sway uses horizontal chains.

Nearly all "sway control" features of WD systems are based on deliberately resisting yaw motion (turning or swaying) with friction. That's true of both systems currently sold by Escape.

Andersen designed their system specifically for sway control. It is designed so that the chains keep a horizontal plate under the head aligned with the trailer, and that plate turns a conical shaft in brake lining type high-friction material ; the weight of the tongue on the ball presses the shaft into the lining so there is lots of friction.

[SouthernCamper]

Originally Posted by cvanzan

I got my '17 21' with the bar type WDH and manual jack. After 3 trips I decided to get an electric jack. Not because of effort, but because of the time it takes.

The '17 21' has a junction box under the front of the trailer, making it very easy to wire.

The jack I got was the Husky 87641 Brute Electric Jack with Wireless Remote, and it definitely interferes with the opening the rear hatch on my 4Runner. Btw - I like the remote.

Chas

Hm, must've been pretty undesirable if you got it changed after 3 trips. I wish I had an idea of just how long/how much hassle it is. Any way to estimate/describe the time difference btwn setup with the manual and the power jack? My husband's pretty against the power jack, but maybe after 3 trips he'd change his mind!

[Iowa Dave]

Hi Brian
You are close. On my Anderson, a big nut turns the big nut on the big bolt. Seriously, a fine explanation. Ours works great on the 21.
Iowa

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Hi Brian
You are close. On my Anderson, a big nut turns the big nut on the big bolt. Seriously, a fine explanation. Ours works great on the 21.
Iowa

A "bigger" nut turns the big nut. But I digress. [emoji23]

[gbaglo]

Nobody has mentioned this, but when hooking up the WDH and when unhooking, both the trailer and tow should be level.
I backed my trailer into my driveway, which is slightly sloped ( but the tow was level ), and unhooked the WDH bars, using the tool. The tension on the bars drove the tool into asphalt. Just glad my foot wasn't under it.
With both vehicles level, jacking up the hitch takes tension off the bars. I now remove the bars with both vehicles on the street, and then back into the driveway.

[cvanzan]

Originally Posted by SouthernCamper

Hm, must've been pretty undesirable if you got it changed after 3 trips. I wish I had an idea of just how long/how much hassle it is. Any way to estimate/describe the time difference btwn setup with the manual and the power jack? My husband's pretty against the power jack, but maybe after 3 trips he'd change his mind!

Using the manual jack probably only adds about 2 or 3 minutes each time you hitch/unhitch, but being a type A and seeing that there was a solution.......

[Rossue]

If it hasn't been mentioned already: at least get a pre wire for the jack. That way if you add one later it will be simple to install.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by SouthernCamper

Hm, must've been pretty undesirable if you got it changed after 3 trips. I wish I had an idea of just how long/how much hassle it is. Any way to estimate/describe the time difference btwn setup with the manual and the power jack? My husband's pretty against the power jack, but maybe after 3 trips he'd change his mind!

Those Escapists who may be frail or physically unable to use the standard manual front jack would definitely benefit from having the power jack. If you are of average fitness and dexterity or better, you should have no problems at all with the manual jack. For myself, using the manual jack is probably faster than using a power jack, and I use a WD hitch! Again, unless your husband is quite physically decrepit, he should be able to manage quite fine without the power jack.

[SouthernCamper]

The last few posts seal the deal. No power jack for now. ETI does not prewire for one, I asked, but I've been comforted by stories of easily installing one in a 21' aftermarket.

I really appreciate all of the input.

Tomorrow is D day for us. Might I sheepishly ask those who've become familiar with our setup: which WDH would you choose today for a 21'? Pro-series Trunnion with sway control, E2 by Fastway, or an Anderson hitch?

[gbaglo]

I've been satisfied with my Pro Series ( no sway control ). I have to way of comparing it to the other WDH, except to say that it works and it's the cheapest at $350. I've had no sway issues.

[Steve Clark]

We got the Pro Series with Sway Control, but no longer use the Sway Control. We experimented both ways, and noticed no difference. We are very happy with the Pro Series.

[Ron in BC]

Ditto again. We don't have sway control and have never felt the need for it. Never wanted a WDH for years and now, after extensive experience with it, wouldn't leave home without it.

Ron

[SouthernCamper]

Originally Posted by Steve Clark

We got the Pro Series with Sway Control, but no longer use the Sway Control. We experimented both ways, and noticed no difference. We are very happy with the Pro Series.

If you have the sway control, what's the reason to leave it off? Is it just an extra step that if you don't need it you just avoid?

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by SouthernCamper

If you have the sway control, what's the reason to leave it off? Is it just an extra step that if you don't need it you just avoid?

those friction-brake sway controls are a real pain when you need to do parking maneuvers, sharp U turns, etc, you have to remove it before backing up around a turn, etc. I used the one that came with our Casita on the first few outings, then took a short trip without it (bringing it in case we turned out to need it) and couldn't make the rig sway even if I tried. I've since logged 1000s and 1000s of miles without one on the casita, and 1800 miles on the escape, had zero issues. now, a different tow vehicle could make a world of difference.

[SouthernCamper]

My husband feels like he read something that with the E2, you don't have a problem with backing up like with another sway bar?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by SouthernCamper

My husband feels like he read something that with the E2, you don't have a problem with backing up like with another sway bar?

The device which people are leaving off is a bar-style friction-type sway control device. It is the cheapest and most crude thing imaginable for the purpose. The reason that this type of device is typically removed to back up is that if it is not long enough, and/or not installed properly, it will come apart (because it is over-extended) or jam (because it is over-compressed); the direction of travel doesn't actually matter to the device, but the challenge is turn angle and it is possible to turn more tightly in reverse (jackknifing).

The WD systems which build friction into their basic construction (Fastway E2, Andersen No-Sway, Equal-i-zer, and others) are designed to not come apart or jam at extreme turning angles - it would be very bad if they came apart in use. As a result, there's no disconnecting required to back up. Other designs depend on an add-on device (e.g. Pro Series as offered by Escape); they don't need to be disconnected to back up either, but the add-on device might need to be.

[Steve Clark]

Originally Posted by SouthernCamper

If you have the sway control, what's the reason to leave it off? Is it just an extra step that if you don't need it you just avoid?

An enthusiastic YES to all the above!

[SouthernCamper]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The device which people are leaving off is a bar-style friction-type sway control device. It is the cheapest and most crude thing imaginable for the purpose. The reason that this type of device is typically removed to back up is that if it is not long enough, and/or not installed properly, it will come apart (because it is over-extended) or jam (because it is over-compressed); the direction of travel doesn't actually matter to the device, but the challenge is turn angle and it is possible to turn more tightly in reverse (jackknifing).

The WD systems which build friction into their basic construction (Fastway E2, Andersen No-Sway, Equal-i-zer, and others) are designed to not come apart or jam at extreme turning angles - it would be very bad if they came apart in use. As a result, there's no disconnecting required to back up. Other designs depend on an add-on device (e.g. Pro Series as offered by Escape); they don't need to be disconnected to back up either, but the add-on device might need to be.

Very helpful, thank you.

So IF we're going to want sway control, we should get it integrated. If all else is equal, we would just go with the Fastway E2 through ETI.

It seems that many don't wind up needing sway control. Other than that, I don't know how to decide. It seems that if we MIGHT want sway control, we might as well just get the E2 so we don't wind up with the situation you and others describe.

Has anyone decided they they do like having sway control on their Escape? (problems with removable sway bars causing angle problems aside)